A Good Dish

making food simpler

What a Difference an Ingredient Makes – Even Better Soup!

Split pea soup with boosted flavor
Porcelain cup by Rachel Donner

What a difference a small amount of an ingredient can make in preparing soup! I make split pea and lentil soup quite often during the colder months and think they are both terrific recipes. But when we had dinner at a friend’s home last week, his yellow split pea soup had me reconsidering mine. Paul told us he had not only added smoked paprika, which I do as well and which resulted in a big discussion of how to pronounce paprika, but also some chipotle pepper in adobo sauce. It increased the depth of flavor, making it not just spicy but also savory and smoky. My husband often adds hot sauce or Japanese red pepper to his food but this was hot and complex enough that it didn’t need any more heat.

Chipotle in Adobo sauce is widely available in small cans like these. Store unused contents in a glass jar in the refrigerator.

Other simple additions to soup recipes have big flavor boosts, such as adding fresh herbs. Try dill in lentil or chicken soup or cilantro in split pea, lentil or chili. Ditto a can of chopped green chilis to pozole, a cup of cut up watermelon to gazpacho, Parmesan rinds or pesto in white bean or some turmeric or curry to your butternut squash soup. And certainly use up any leftover cooked vegetables, greens or salsa by adding them to the pot. There is always the reliable splash of vinegar or lemon juice at the end of cooking to zing up an otherwise bland sauce or soup.

Coincidentally, I had just made a big pot of green split pea in preparation for a couple of nights when we would be getting home later than usual and would need dinner at the ready. Having a fennel salad (which improves with sitting) and freshly made sauerkraut in the fridge meant we could have a complete meal on the table both nights in about 10 minutes. When warming the soup, I added a spoonful of the chipotle chili with adobo sauce (you can buy it at most groceries or supermarkets-if canned, put it in a glass jar once opened to store in the fridge) and let the soup simmer for about 5 minutes. I topped each bowl with some fresh cilantro and put out hot sauce in case anyone wanted his soup spicier (which he didn’t). Don’t be afraid to try a new addition. As I found this week, even the most reliable recipe can be varied and improved. Thanks, Paul – it was delicious!

Spiced split pea soup
Porcelain bowl by Rachel Donner

Simple Chilled Cucumber Soup with Herbs – Just Blend!

Chilled Cucumber Soup
Wood fired Mug by Linda Christianson

Labor Day has passed and although you may have put away your summer whites, summer vegetables are still plentiful in the markets. This is what we might label late summer, when ripe tomatoes are still available and the hefty winter squashes are just beginning to make an appearance. Although the intense heat of summer is gone, days are not yet cool and I still want something refreshing to eat so I make a simple cucumber and yogurt soup. Cucumbers last on the vine (and in my crisper) longer than most summer vegetables and if you grow them, you know they can pile up in August and September.

Japanese cucumber with very small seeds

A few weeks ago, I posted ideas for easy cucumber salads. The other way I love to prepare cucumbers is as the primary ingredient in a cold soup. It is light and refreshing, especially in the lingering humidity at summer’s end. If you are using organic cucumbers, you can leave the peel intact unless you don’t like the taste. Otherwise, please peel them – residual pesticides do no one any favors! Cucumbers are very low in calories and high in water content which is why they are so satisfying on a warm day.

Organic cucumbers at the 97th Street Greenmarket

This simple soup includes yogurt so it has protein and could be a complete meal, sprinkled with toasted pumpkin or sunflower seeds and served with a savory cracker or bread. There are almost too few ingredients to call this a recipe and it comes together very quickly and can be varied to suit your taste. It is essentially a little more cucumber than yogurt and if you don’t like mint or dill, for example, substitute fresh cilantro or basil. You could add some garlic or jalapeño for heat and a little cumin for spice. If you don’t eat cow yogurt, try goat, sheep, almond or coconut. Florence Fabricant published a recipe in The Times last year using avocado instead of yogurt so if you are vegan, try her recipe). Until the roasted vegetables and soups of fall replace big tomato salads and steamed fresh green beans, take advantage of cucumbers and blend up this easy and cooling soup.

Fresh Mint
Wood fired Stoneware Cup by Linda Christianson

Cold Cucumber Soup

  • 2-3 Japanese, English or Persian-style cucumbers, cut in pieces to equal 3 cups (If seeds are large, scoop out and discard)
  • 2cups plain yogurt (I use either nonfat or whole, depending on what I have)
  • A generous handful of washed fresh mint leaves and some fresh dill
  • A big pinch (about 1/2 tsp) cumin (optional)
  • A handful of washed fresh parsley leaves (optional)
  • 1/2 avocado, peeled (optional)
  • Juice of 1/2 a lime (optional)
  • Salt to taste

Blend all ingredients in a blender or processor until smooth and chill until cold. Serve in tumblers or mugs, garnished with mint leaves or chives. Serves 6.

Pourer by Linda Christianson
Wood fired stoneware

Another Shot of Winter Gives Us Another Chance to Cook

From The Yosemite Suite (2010-11) by David Hockney

Even though we’ve changed the clocks ahead (when are we going to give up that antiquated routine?), it still feels like winter in New York. Nothing like a little snow on branches to make us forget that Spring will be here next week. But it will. We’ve had little glimpses. And until it gets here, make soup and ginger tea, make oatmeal for breakfast before it gets too warm and be cosy!

We will be traveling for a few weeks, researching food, wine, markets and all things clay. Be back in April with lots more posts. Until then, keep warm and enjoy bundling up with a steaming cup or bowl while you still are able. 

Buds around the Central Park Reservoir in February

Lentil Soup – Easy, Nutritious and Economical

Lentil soup with herbs, spices and vegetables
Wood-fired stoneware mug by Doug Casebeer

Making soup is a useful activity on a cold afternoon. It takes an hour or two and you have dinner prepared for a couple of nights during the upcoming week and sometimes a lunch, too. You can clean out your fridge at the same time because most soup recipes can handle the addition of leftover vegetables or starches, even proteins. (Mexican posole (my favorite and fallback feel good soup) uses up cooked chicken or turkey and any chicken soup can be enriched with finely cut collards or kale or cooked rice or barley – for example). Beans partner well with any leftover greens, grains, sausage or ham, even crumbled bacon, assuming there ever is any left over.

Red, Dupuy and Green Lentils

One of the simplest soups to make is lentil – red, green, yellow or brown – start to finish in an hour, although it tastes better if you leave it in the fridge overnight and then reheat. The flavor improves with time so you can make it a day or two before you want to serve it. Many cultures cook with lentils for good reasons. They are inexpensive, nutritious, easy to store and can be seasoned in different ways. Curry, tomatoes, Italian seasonings, dill, ginger or smoked paprika each change the flavor profile of the lentils. This pretty basic recipe has seemingly endless variations.Double it if you have more people to feed or if you want more leftovers to serve over rice with fresh cilantro and hot sauce for another meal. It isn’t the most beautiful looking soup you will ever make but it is fragrant, filling, warming and satisfying. You can make it more appealing by adding greens or a sprinkle of parsley and, of course by serving it in a wonderful handmade mug or bowl!

Lentil soup with chorizo

Very Basic Lentil Soup

  • 1 – 2 Tbs. olive or avocado oil
  • 1-2 large (Spanish) or 2-3 medium onions, coarsely diced
  • 1-2 large garlic cloves, minced or grated (or not, if you don’t like it)
  • 3 stalks celery, halved lengthwise and then sliced
  • 3 carrots, halved lengthwise and then sliced or diced
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1-2 tsp cumin (optional but adds depth)
  • 1-2 tsp each oregano and basil
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • 2 tsp coarse salt
  • 2 cups lentils (brown, green or red), washed and drained
  • 8 cups water (or stock if you like your soup a little richer)
  • handful of chopped parsley for garnish (and to boost nutrition)

Heat oil in a stock pot until shimmering.

Add onions and turn heat to medium.

Add garlic and cook until onions turn translucent.

Add celery, carrots, bay leaves, herbs, salt and pepper and stir until well combined.

Stir in lentils, add water and turn up the heat.

When it comes to a boil, turn down the heat and gently simmer until lentils are cooked and soup has thickened, about 30 – 60 minutes depending on the kind of lentils you use. If the soup is too thick for your preference, thin it with water. Add more salt, pepper and cumin to taste – it will need it. Remove the bay leaves, sprinkle with parsley and consider adding one or more of the extras listed below.

Extras:

– I think this soup is greatly enhanced by grating in some fresh ginger and turmeric toward the end of cooking plus a 1/2 teaspoon of curry powder or, alternatively, stirring in a heaping tablespoon of pesto before serving.

– If you like tomato in your lentil soup, add a can of diced tomatoes during simmering.

– For a starch, add 1 or 2 cups of cooked rice or cubed leftover (or raw if you add with the lentils) potatoes or sweet potatoes.

  • A squeeze of lemon juice, a little lemon zest or a splash of vinegar at the end of cooking boosts flavor.
  • For spicy, add hot sauce, cayenne pepper or salsa.
  • To boost the protein content, add chopped or crumbled cooked sausage (pork, turkey, chicken or vegetarian all work), diced leftover ham or shredded smoked turkey.

– Instead of thinning with additional water at the end, you can use a cup of coconut milk.

– Freshly Grated Parmesan (added before serving) thickens and adds depth if your soup seems too bland or thin. For vegans, add some smoked paprika or nutritional yeast to boost flavor.

– I think this soup becomes even better with the addition of chopped kale, collards, swiss chard (all blanched or pre-cooked or added 10 minutes before soup finishes cooking), spinach or arugula (added when serving).

 

To use for a second meal, reheat at low until thickened (stir often so it doesn’t burn) and serve over cooked rice or greens and top with chopped cilantro (or parsley if you don’t like cilantro) and put out salsa, hot sauce, chopped red onion, grated cheese and diced avocado for people to add as they please. The leftovers make a great box lunch.

Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables – What I Want to Eat on a Cold Day or Night

Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup from The Democratic Cup cup designed by Kristen Kiefer - Image by Roberto Lugo
Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables
bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup from The Democratic Cup
Cup designed by Kristen Kiefer – Image by Roberto Lugo

One of my favorite winter meals is a bowl of split pea soup. There are good reasons it is part of the food culture of so many northern countries with cold winters (think Sweden, Norway, Finland, Poland, Great Britain, Netherlands, Germany, Canada and the northeastern US). It is easy and inexpensive to make, warming, filling, nutritious and tastes even better after a day in the fridge. You probably have all or most of the ingredients already in your kitchen. The recipe I prefer is not the super smooth pea puree that you would get in both a diner and an upscale restaurant in this country. Rather, it is a chunky style, full of vegetables, herbs and barley. If you prefer pureed, you can easily accomplish it with longer cooking and a regular or an immersion blender.

This recipe originated in the wonderful Laurel’s Kitchen cookbook (see the book section of the blog) and I have modified it to suit my tastes. You should do the same when you make it. My version is vegetarian but if you like yours with meat, add a ham hock with the peas or some diced leftover ham or crumbled bacon with the vegetables. If you like a richer soup, use vegetable or chicken broth instead of water. And take liberties with the vegetables and grains. If you like a lot of celery or carrot, add more. If you have leeks you want to use up, chop and substitute them for part of the onions. If you love garlic, add more and if you hate garlic, omit it. If you prefer less starch, leave out the barley and/or the potato and use a little less water. If you want the soup heartier, add some baby limas with the barley or throw in some leftover cooked or canned white beans toward the end of cooking. If you don’t like Italian herbs, use dill. If you want your soup spicy, add some cayenne or a dash or two of hot sauce. And if you like a little more green, add a handful of frozen green peas and/or fresh arugula or baby spinach leaves to each bowl before you ladle in the soup.

Make sure your split peas aren’t old or they will never soften properly. I used to buy big quantities of beans and grains so they would be on hand when I wanted them. But I have learned to buy them, especially split peas, more frequently and in smaller amounts from a source or market with a big turnover so they are fresher. You don’t want to cook and cook and cook your soup and still find it crunchy.

Simmer gently so as not to scorch
Simmer gently so as not to scorch

There are two ways to prepare the same ingredients. If you are in a hurry or avoiding fats, you can just put all the ingredients minus the oil and parsley, in a stockpot and cook for an hour, adding the parsley close to the end of cooking. But the soup gains flavor with a short sauté to start and then you add the bulk of vegetables in the second half of cooking. You can serve it chunky the first night and purée it later in the week to serve for a second meal.

A note about the folks who made the cups in which the split pea soup is pictured here – The Democratic Cup is a group of artists who are trying to generate “positive political discourse” through their collaborative creation and production of cups with political content. Check them out at thedemocraticcup.com where you can order your own cup!

bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup (verso) by The Democratic Cup Image by Roberto Lugo - Cup designed by Kristen Kiefer
bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup (verso) by The Democratic Cup
Image by Roberto Lugo – Cup designed by Kristen Kiefer

Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables

1 TBs olive oil
2 cups chopped onion (1 large)
1 TBs minced garlic (about 2 cloves, depending on size)
1 generous tsp celery seed

Heat oil in a stock pot and add onions, garlic and celery seed. Cook until onions begin to turn translucent.

Add:
2 level cups dried green split peas
1/2 cup uncooked barley (I like hulled but pearled is okay)
2 bay leaves
14 cups water

Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Then add:
1 heaping cup (or more) chopped celery (about 2 big stalks)
1 heaping cup (or more) diced or sliced carrots (2-3 carrots)
1 cup potato, diced
1/2 cup chopped parsley (this can also be added close to the end of cooking)
2 tsps salt
1/2-1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp dried basil
1 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp smoked paprika (optional but flavorful)

Gently simmer 45 minutes longer, stirring often to avoid scorching, adding water if necessary. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. As it cools, the soup should thicken. If you want an even heartier dish, add some croutons (you can make these easily by sautéing bread or cornbread cubes in butter or oil) when serving, but I think the barley hefts it up sufficiently. And, like many soups, this one tastes better if made the day before and reheated slowly. Use low head so it doesn’t scorch, and stir often. I think it is particularly good served with something crunchy, like toast or crackers.
(To halve the recipe, simply cut the amount of split peas to 1 cup, barley to 1/4 cup, water to 8 cups and salt to 1 tsp. Adjust amounts of vegetables or not).
Serves 6-10, depending on serving size (big bowl or mug), and freezes well.