Soups | A Good Dish

Another Shot of Winter Gives Us Another Chance to Cook

March 15, 2017

From The Yosemite Suite (2010-11) by David Hockney

Even though we’ve changed the clocks ahead (when are we going to give up that antiquated routine?), it still feels like winter in New York. Nothing like a little snow on branches to make us forget that Spring will be here next week. But it will. We’ve had little glimpses. And until it gets here, make soup and ginger tea, make oatmeal for breakfast before it gets too warm and be cosy!

We will be traveling for a few weeks, researching food, wine, markets and all things clay. Be back in April with lots more posts. Until then, keep warm and enjoy bundling up with a steaming cup or bowl while you still are able.

Buds around the Central Park Reservoir in February

Lentil Soup – Easy, Nutritious and Economical

February 15, 2017

Lentil soup with herbs, spices and vegetables
Wood-fired stoneware mug by Doug Casebeer

Making soup is a useful activity on a cold afternoon. It takes an hour or two and you have dinner prepared for a couple of nights during the upcoming week and sometimes a lunch, too. You can clean out your fridge at the same time because most soup recipes can handle the addition of leftover vegetables or starches, even proteins. (Mexican posole (my favorite and fallback feel good soup) uses up cooked chicken or turkey and any chicken soup can be enriched with finely cut collards or kale or cooked rice or barley – for example). Beans partner well with any leftover greens, grains, sausage or ham, even crumbled bacon, assuming there ever is any left over.

One of the simplest soups to make is lentil – red, green, yellow or brown – start to finish in an hour, although it tastes better if you leave it in the fridge overnight and then reheat. The flavor improves with time so you can make it a day or two before you want to serve it. Many cultures cook with lentils for good reasons. They are inexpensive, nutritious, easy to store and can be seasoned in different ways. Curry, tomatoes, Italian seasonings, dill, ginger or smoked paprika each change the flavor profile of the lentils. This pretty basic recipe has seemingly endless variations.Double it if you have more people to feed or if you want more leftovers to serve over rice with fresh cilantro and hot sauce for another meal. It isn’t the most beautiful looking soup you will ever make but it is fragrant, filling, warming and satisfying. You can make it more appealing by adding greens or a sprinkle of parsley and, of course by serving it in a wonderful handmade mug or bowl!

Very Basic Lentil Soup

1 – 2 Tbs. olive or avocado oil
1-2 large (Spanish) or 2-3 medium onions, coarsely diced
1-2 large garlic cloves, minced or grated (or not, if you don’t like it)
3 stalks celery, halved lengthwise and then sliced
3 carrots, halved lengthwise and then sliced or diced
2 bay leaves
1-2 tsp cumin (optional but adds depth)
1-2 tsp each oregano and basil
1 tsp black pepper
2 tsp coarse salt
2 cups lentils (brown, green or red), washed and drained
8 cups water (or stock if you like your soup a little richer)
handful of chopped parsley for garnish (and to boost nutrition)

Heat oil in a stock pot until shimmering.

Add onions and turn heat to medium.

Add garlic and cook until onions turn translucent.

Add celery, carrots, bay leaves, herbs, salt and pepper and stir until well combined.

Stir in lentils, add water and turn up the heat.

When it comes to a boil, turn down the heat and gently simmer until lentils are cooked and soup has thickened, about 30 – 60 minutes depending on the kind of lentils you use. If the soup is too thick for your preference, thin it with water. Add more salt, pepper and cumin to taste – it will need it. Remove the bay leaves, sprinkle with parsley and consider adding one or more of the extras listed below.

Extras:

– I think this soup is greatly enhanced by grating in some fresh ginger and turmeric toward the end of cooking plus a 1/2 teaspoon of curry powder or, alternatively, stirring in a heaping tablespoon of pesto before serving.

– If you like tomato in your lentil soup, add a can of diced tomatoes during simmering.

– For a starch, add 1 or 2 cups of cooked rice or cubed leftover (or raw if you add with the lentils) potatoes or sweet potatoes.

A squeeze of lemon juice, a little lemon zest or a splash of vinegar at the end of cooking boosts flavor.
For spicy, add hot sauce, cayenne pepper or salsa.
To boost the protein content, add chopped or crumbled cooked sausage (pork, turkey, chicken or vegetarian all work), diced leftover ham or shredded smoked turkey.

– Instead of thinning with additional water at the end, you can use a cup of coconut milk.

– Freshly Grated Parmesan (added before serving) thickens and adds depth if your soup seems too bland or thin. For vegans, add some smoked paprika or nutritional yeast to boost flavor.

– I think this soup becomes even better with the addition of chopped kale, collards, swiss chard (all blanched or pre-cooked or added 10 minutes before soup finishes cooking), spinach or arugula (added when serving).

To use for a second meal, reheat at low until thickened (stir often so it doesn’t burn) and serve over cooked rice or greens and top with chopped cilantro (or parsley if you don’t like cilantro) and put out salsa, hot sauce, chopped red onion, grated cheese and diced avocado for people to add as they please. The leftovers make a great box lunch.

Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables – What I Want to Eat on a Cold Day or Night

January 11, 2017

Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup from The Democratic Cup cup designed by Kristen Kiefer - Image by Roberto Lugo — Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables
bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup from The Democratic Cup
Cup designed by Kristen Kiefer – Image by Roberto Lugo

One of my favorite winter meals is a bowl of split pea soup. There are good reasons it is part of the food culture of so many northern countries with cold winters (think Sweden, Norway, Finland, Poland, Great Britain, Netherlands, Germany, Canada and the northeastern US). It is easy and inexpensive to make, warming, filling, nutritious and tastes even better after a day in the fridge. You probably have all or most of the ingredients already in your kitchen. The recipe I prefer is not the super smooth pea puree that you would get in both a diner and an upscale restaurant in this country. Rather, it is a chunky style, full of vegetables, herbs and barley. If you prefer pureed, you can easily accomplish it with longer cooking and a regular or an immersion blender.

This recipe originated in the wonderful Laurel’s Kitchen cookbook (see the book section of the blog) and I have modified it to suit my tastes. You should do the same when you make it. My version is vegetarian but if you like yours with meat, add a ham hock with the peas or some diced leftover ham or crumbled bacon with the vegetables. If you like a richer soup, use vegetable or chicken broth instead of water. And take liberties with the vegetables and grains. If you like a lot of celery or carrot, add more. If you have leeks you want to use up, chop and substitute them for part of the onions. If you love garlic, add more and if you hate garlic, omit it. If you prefer less starch, leave out the barley and/or the potato and use a little less water. If you want the soup heartier, add some baby limas with the barley or throw in some leftover cooked or canned white beans toward the end of cooking. If you don’t like Italian herbs, use dill. If you want your soup spicy, add some cayenne or a dash or two of hot sauce. And if you like a little more green, add a handful of frozen green peas and/or fresh arugula or baby spinach leaves to each bowl before you ladle in the soup.

Make sure your split peas aren’t old or they will never soften properly. I used to buy big quantities of beans and grains so they would be on hand when I wanted them. But I have learned to buy them, especially split peas, more frequently and in smaller amounts from a source or market with a big turnover so they are fresher. You don’t want to cook and cook and cook your soup and still find it crunchy.

There are two ways to prepare the same ingredients. If you are in a hurry or avoiding fats, you can just put all the ingredients minus the oil and parsley, in a stockpot and cook for an hour, adding the parsley close to the end of cooking. But the soup gains flavor with a short sauté to start and then you add the bulk of vegetables in the second half of cooking. You can serve it chunky the first night and purée it later in the week to serve for a second meal.

A note about the folks who made the cups in which the split pea soup is pictured here – The Democratic Cup is a group of artists who are trying to generate “positive political discourse” through their collaborative creation and production of cups with political content. Check them out at thedemocraticcup.com where you can order your own cup!

bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup (verso) by The Democratic Cup Image by Roberto Lugo - Cup designed by Kristen Kiefer — bell hooks and Sojourner Truth cup (verso) by The Democratic Cup
Image by Roberto Lugo – Cup designed by Kristen Kiefer

Split Pea Soup with Barley and Vegetables

1 TBs olive oil
2 cups chopped onion (1 large)
1 TBs minced garlic (about 2 cloves, depending on size)
1 generous tsp celery seed

Heat oil in a stock pot and add onions, garlic and celery seed. Cook until onions begin to turn translucent.

Add:
2 level cups dried green split peas
1/2 cup uncooked barley (I like hulled but pearled is okay)
2 bay leaves
14 cups water

Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Then add:
1 heaping cup (or more) chopped celery (about 2 big stalks)
1 heaping cup (or more) diced or sliced carrots (2-3 carrots)
1 cup potato, diced
1/2 cup chopped parsley (this can also be added close to the end of cooking)
2 tsps salt
1/2-1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp dried basil
1 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp smoked paprika (optional but flavorful)

Gently simmer 45 minutes longer, stirring often to avoid scorching, adding water if necessary. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. As it cools, the soup should thicken. If you want an even heartier dish, add some croutons (you can make these easily by sautéing bread or cornbread cubes in butter or oil) when serving, but I think the barley hefts it up sufficiently. And, like many soups, this one tastes better if made the day before and reheated slowly. Use low head so it doesn’t scorch, and stir often. I think it is particularly good served with something crunchy, like toast or crackers.
(To halve the recipe, simply cut the amount of split peas to 1 cup, barley to 1/4 cup, water to 8 cups and salt to 1 tsp. Adjust amounts of vegetables or not).
Serves 6-10, depending on serving size (big bowl or mug), and freezes well.

A Good Dish – Favorites From Our First Year

January 4, 2017

Looking back over all of the recipes I posted last year in A Good Dish, there are some standouts I make over and over. These are the cool weather dishes my family and I don’t tire of, the ones I fall back on when I don’t have another meal in mind and the ones that guests are happy being served and often ask for the recipe. If you didn’t start reading the blog from day 1, you may have missed some. So in the spirit of holiday sharing, here are the links to a dozen of our regulars made with ingredients available now. (No tomato salads or steamed asparagus, for example). Let me know if you add them to your favorites. Happy New Year, happy cooking and happy eating!

Coconut Red Lentil Soup

Curried Lentil Soup Porcelain bowl by Andy Brayman — Curried Lentil Soup
Porcelain bowl by Andy Brayman

Sautéed Broccoli Rabe or Broccoli

Broccoli Rabe with Garlic, Currants and Chili Flakes Flameware Casserole Dish by Robbie Lobell — Broccoli Rabe with Garlic, Currants and Chili Flakes
Flameware Casserole Dish by Robbie Lobell

Black Pepper Pasta with Green Vegetables

Black pepper pasta with vegetables Earthenware dish by Ayumi Horie — Black pepper pasta with vegetables
Earthenware dish by Ayumi Horie

Leftover Turkey? Make Pozole

November 23, 2016

Spicy Mexican Posole made with leftover turkey Thrown and altered tumblers by Chris Gustin — Spicy Mexican Soup made with leftover turkey
Thrown and altered tumblers by Chris Gustin

Leftover turkey might be the best thing about the actual Thanksgiving meal, except, of course, the stuffing and all things pumpkin. You can make turkey tacos, turkey sandwiches (with stuffing and cranberries), turkey salad and turkey chili, among many other dishes. The tastiest way I know to prepare leftover turkey is the same as my answer to almost any meal planning decision between Halloween and April Fool’s – make soup!

When you have a turkey or a chicken carcass, after Thanksgiving or any other time, a flavorful second use is a spicy Mexican soup known as Pozole (after the hominy, called pozole in Spanish, used in it). Although a traditional pozole is made with pork, I think it is much tastier with chicken or turkey. Don’t panic if you’ve never seen or heard of hominy – you can find it canned by Goya in the Latin section of your grocery store. You can now buy an organic version made by Natural Value online at jet.com. If you want to use dried kernels, just soak them overnight in water and cook with a few bay leaves and a mashed clove of garlic, adding water as needed, as you might cook chickpeas.

If you are decide to make your own broth, this becomes a 2 part recipe. First, carve off most of the remaining meat to put in the refrigerator to use later. Break the carcass in half or quarters, as you need to in order to fit into your soup pot. Add a couple of cut up carrots and stalks of celery, an onion (you can leave on the skin) and a few smashed cloves of garlic. Because your turkey was (hopefully) seasoned when you cooked it, there is no need to add salt here. If you have extra parsley, you can toss it in. I add a small parsnip, a sliced turmeric root and a dozen peppercorns to the pot, but you may have other preferences. Add water to cover everything by an inch or so and bring to a boil. Skim any foamy stuff on the surface, turn down heat and simmer for about an hour. Drain the stock through a strainer or colander and discard the solids after picking off any usable bits of turkey. Now you are ready to proceed with part 2 of your soup making.

If you don’t want to make the broth, you can still make the soup with bought stock and the leftover turkey meat – just proceed to the recipe below without stock-making. And you can even use cooked chicken and chicken broth wherever I am using turkey. The amounts are flexible and really up to you. I like a lot of vegetables and hominy and less meat chunks but you may prefer otherwise. Don’t be put off by the number of ingredients or the variable amounts. This is a forgiving recipe and another reason to be thankful.

Poole with crushed tortilla chips Tumbler by Chris Gustin — Pozole with crushed tortilla chips
Tumbler by Chris Gustin

Turkey Pozole

2 TBS olive oil
2 cups chopped onion, 1 very large or 2 medium onions
1/2 cup minced garlic, 4-8 large cloves
2 TBS tomato paste
2 TBS chili powder (I use 1 TBS regular chili powder and 1 of chipotle chili powder)
1 heaping TBS dried oregano
1 heaping TBS cumin powder
1 – 2 cans (5.75 oz) whole green chilies, diced or 2 cans (4oz) pre-diced – (you could roast and chop a poblano pepper or two or add a chopped poblano to the cooking onions depending on your tastes or what you have available – again – this is a flexible recipe – if you don’t want the flavor of the green chilies or you don’t have any, you could use green pepper or omit it altogether)
1 cup thinly sliced celery, 2-3 stalks or more
1 cup carrots, 2-3 carrots or more, sliced or diced, depending on how you like the pieces in your soup
8-10 cups of turkey broth (or 2 quart boxes of stock)
4 cups water
4 cups cooked posole/hominy or 2-3 15 oz. cans, drained and rinsed
3 cups shredded cooked turkey (or chicken)
salt and pepper to taste
Juice of 1 lime
Pinch of cayenne, if you like spicy
chopped cilantro, a lime cut in wedges, finely shredded green or napa cabbage, minced red onion, thinly sliced or julienned radishes, chopped avocado, dried oregano, hot sauce or cayenne and tortilla chips to put on the table and let people add as they please.

Heat the oil in a stock pot, add the onion and cook until turning translucent (3-5 mins) over medium hot heat but not hot enough to burn the onion.

Add the garlic (and fresh poblano, if using) and cook one more minute.

Add the tomato paste, chili powder, oregano, cumin, and chilies. (if using raw peppers, add with the garlic and cook an additional minute) and cook 1 more minute.

Add the celery and carrots.

Add the broth and water, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer.

Add the hominy and cook 20 minutes.

If you like more body to your soup (a thicker broth), remove 2 cups of the mixture (mostly the solids with a little liquid) and process in a blender until smooth and then add back to the soup. Or use an immersion blender for a few seconds.

Add the shredded turkey and taste for seasoning.

Add salt and/or pepper as desired.

Add lime juice and serve, letting each lucky eater add cilantro, cabbage, onion, radish, avocado, oregano, hot sauce and crumbled tortilla chips as desired.

This soup tastes even better after a day or two in the refrigerator. If you think it lacks enough flavor, add a dash of smoked paprika – it improves many savory soups.

Serves 6-8

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