A Good Dish

making food simpler

Try Adding Sautéed Fennel For Variety In Your Winter Vegetable Rotation

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Simple sautéed fennel
Earthenware bowl by Lisa Orr

I am always trying to incorporate more vegetables into our meals but never as much as in the dark days of January. Winter food tends to be starch and protein heavy—think potatoes, stews, roasts and gooey pastas. Adding vegetables can lighten these dishes or, at least, create some balance. Root vegetables are the most commonly available in winter but cabbages, kale, collards and mustard greens are abundant, even sweeter in cold weather. One of my favorites is fennel, sometimes mistakenly called anise because of its similar, but milder, flavor, delicious both raw and cooked. 

Raw fennel,
Sliced and ready to sauté

Fennel appears in our Northeast farmers markets in spring, summer and fall but keeps well in storage and is available year round in grocery stores. It can stay crisp for weeks in the refrigerator. It makes a terrific salad when no good lettuces are available and, if you are lucky enough to get a bulb with lots of fronds, it makes a delicious, lemony pesto. Lots of wintery recipes call for braising or roasting fennel. Okay fine, but I think the best (and easiest) way to prepare it is simply sautéed. It can be as basic as oil (or butter) and sliced fennel bulbs, seasoned with a little salt and pepper. You can fancy it up with browned onions, minced garlic, lemons, apples or radicchio, kale or cabbage finished with a splash of sherry, brandy or balsamic vinegar and a sprinkle of your favorite herb. 

Fennel sautéed with just
oil, salt and pepper

Sautéed fennel is a wonderful side dish. It will keep a couple of days in the fridge so make a big batch and save yourself some cooking time. For those put off by the licorice flavor of raw fennel, it disappears almost completely when sautéed. So start your year off eating more vegetables, including some not in your regular rotation, like sautéed fennel!

Sautéed fennel
Bowl by Lisa Orr

SAUTÉED FENNEL

Wash and cut one to two bulbs of fennel in half lengthwise and slice thinly.

Heat a couple tablespoons of olive, avocado or grapeseed oil in a large skillet and add the sliced fennel. Sauté until beginning to brown, adding a splash of water, if necessary to prevent sticking and burning.

When browned to your liking, turn off heat and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

(Alternatively, start with sliced onions and add fennel when onions begin to brown).

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LISA ORR makes playful, colorful earthenware pots (and street address numbers) which pay homage to lively Mexican pottery. She enhances her wheel-thrown and mold cast pieces with sprigging (applied raised decoration), slip trailing, carving and glaze painting. The resulting pieces are a celebration by themselves! Her work can be found at on etsy, at Schaller Gallery, Clay Akar, Dallas Pottery Invitational and Artstream Nomadic Gallery, among other outlets.

 

Glazed earthenware bowl
by Lisa Orr
Scarborough Beach Snow

Grate Fresh Carrots To Make An Easily Variable And Appealing Salad In Autumn And Every Season

Grated carrot salad with orange/cumin dressing
Oval bowl by Sunshine Cobb

I don’t usually make carrot salad when so many late summer/fall vegetables are still at their peak. It is more a middle of the winter, not a green in sight situation that prompts me to get grating carrots. But when life gives you carrots…. I’ll explain. We recently visited friends in mid-coast Maine who have created a huge, lush and productive vegetable garden out of their back lawn – impressive in so many ways. Not only are they growing a wide variety of vegetables themselves with their young children underfoot in the shorter Maine summer but have kept out groundhogs and other critters and had started harvesting veggies in July! We had a good catchup and coffee on their lovely deck admiring the garden and when we left, Demetri gifted us a bag of beautiful, fresh carrots.

Gifted garden carrots
Oval bowl by Sunshine Cobb
A section of Caroline and Demetri’s garden
Beautifully hung garden tools on their garage

Carrots, celery and cabbage are my backup vegetables. They are always available, keep for a long time in the fridge and so versatile for making salads, soups and stir fries. Our gifted carrots were plump and sweet, perfect for eating out of hand or for salad. I grated them along with some fresh ginger for emphasis, added a finely chopped apple and nuts for crunch, parsley (cilantro or mint also delicious) for green, cumin and coriander for depth, lemon juice for acidity, dates and  orange juice for sweetness and finished up with olive oil to bind it all together. The result was fresh, crisp, lively and satisfying, a carrot salad I will be happy to serve and eat in any season. Bonus – Perfect color and sweetness for Halloween and Thanksgiving!

Carrot salad with dates and apples
Red clay bowl by Sunshine Cobb

ALL SEASON CARROT SALAD

Place in a salad bowl:

  • 1 pound raw carrots, grated or finely julienned
  • 1 apple, cored and finely diced
  • 1/4-1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley, cilantro or mint
  • 3-4 Medjool dates, pitted and chopped
  • 1/4-1/3 cup chopped raw or toasted walnuts or pistachios

In a smaller bowl, whisk together:

  • 2 TBs fresh orange juice
  • 2 TBs fresh lemon juice
  • 1-2 inch piece of fresh ginger, grated (a generous TBs)
  • Pinch salt
  • Pinch black pepper
  • 1/2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1/4 tsp ground coriander
  • Pinch cayenne, optional
  • 2 TBs olive oil
Pour dressing over other ingredients, toss and let sit 30 minutes or more before serving.

Keeps well refrigerated for a second serving for up to 3 days. Feeds 4-8

Optional add-ins:

Grated garlic, tahini, honey, pomegranate arils or a chopped pear can replace the apple

 

Montana based artist SUNSHINE COBB makes a wide array of colorful, appealing functional pottery sold on her website, through many galleries and shops and at various ceramic sales. She is the author of two thorough, encouraging books on hand building with clay and offers online and in-person workshops around the country, hand building tools she has developed and a number of generous youtube videos she freely shares. Often stamped, carved, cut, or simply fingerprinted, Sunshine’s work is usually textured in a way that makes you want to touch and pick it up. For many years she sandblasted her glazed ware to create a soft matte surface but recently moved to a new body of work with slips and glazes in a new range of colors. Check out her website and Instagram (and this wonderful interview with Jen Allen)for more information.

Garlic boxes by Sunshine Cobb
Photo courtesy of the artist
Votive candelabra by Sunshine Cobb
Photo courtesy of the artist
Ceramic baskets by Sunshine Cobb
Photo courtesy of the artist

An Un-Hollandaise Sauce For Dipping Spring Vegetables Like Artichokes And Asparagus

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Carved porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

Now that fresh artichokes are available in grocery stores, you want to make something delicious in which to dip their leaves. A steamed artichoke, a vegetable rich in folate, is a treat with melted butter but is elevated to another state with a scrumptious dip. Hollandaise sauce, a traditional accompaniment to both artichokes and asparagus, has always been too rich for me. Plus, unless I’ve met the chicken whose eggs I’m eating, anything with raw egg in it makes me skittish. 

Growing up, we dipped our artichokes in a homemade mustardy vinaigrette with chopped, hard-boiled eggs.  My mother clipped the recipe from a monthly newsletter 40 or so years ago and still pulls it out every spring to sauce artichokes. When I went to copy down the recipe decades ago, it was already worn and speckled with drops of oil and now my own copy looks much the same. The original recipe in the newsletter came from Paul Steindler, a Czech chef who ran La Popotte restaurant in New York.

For years I made Mom’s recipe just as she had prepared it, but then it occurred to me that a few changes might lighten it up a bit. I swapped in apple cider vinegar for white distilled, replaced the white sugar with date purée and went back to the Dijon mustard that was in the original (not the bright yellow “French’s” hot dog mustard she used in those days). The newsletter recipe called for half a cup of olive oil but that made the vinaigrette too rich for my taste and tolerance. I cut the oil to 2 tablespoons and instead of adding a chopped egg at the end, I added 2 hard boiled eggs and blended them completely to thicken it all into an unctuous and tangy dip, much lighter than the original. For a vegan version, you could try substituting aquafaba or flax slurry for the eggs. If you want it more yellow, add some turmeric. 

After cutting the pointy end with a knife,
trim sharp tips easily with a scissors

We still celebrate spring with artichokes and asparagus dipped in this delicious mustardy vinaigrette only now I feel good about making it. This combination of a vegetable with a protein makes it a meal, especially if you don’t want a heavy supper. If there is any sauce left over, it makes a pretty good dip for carrots or cold leftover asparagus or to enliven plain cooked fish or chicken. You can prepare this vinaigrette ahead, as it will keep in the refrigerator a day or so, and just re-blend it while the artichokes or asparagus are steaming. 

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

UN-HOLLANDAISE OR HOLLANDAISE-ISH SAUCE

Process until smooth in a blender:

  • 3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 Tb apple cider, white or white wine vinegar 
  • 2 Tbs Dijon mustard 
  • 1 tsp date purée or syrup (or maple syrup, honey, agave, sugar)
  • 1/2 tsp Worcester sauce 
  • 1-2 Tbs olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • Pinch turmeric-optional 

Add and blend until smooth and thickened:

  • 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Great as a dip for artichokes (pour right into the center of a cooked and cleaned artichoke or in a small bowl for dipping) or drizzled over steamed asparagus. Store any leftover in the refrigerator for one day. Fills 4 large artichokes.

I originally posted this recipe in the first year of A Good Dish. This is an updated version with new photos to reach all new readers who have subscribed in the last five years and to remind others to make it. Thanks for reading along.

Porcelain butter dish
by Janel Jacobson

Janel Jacobson makes carved and fluted functional porcelain and stoneware pots, paying attention to form, surface and function. Once a student of Marguerite Wildenhain in California, she makes pots and carved wood sculpture in the Sunrise, Minnesota studio she shares with her husband, potter Will Swanson. Jacobson and Swanson will be one stop on the Mother’s Day weekend St Croix Pottery Tour I have longed to attend for many years. Fortunately , there will be an online sale in conjunction with the studio tour this year. Hope to get there in person next year! 

So many buds on this yellow magnolia!

Don’t Think You Have A Vegetable To Make For Dinner? Just Roast Carrots!

Roasted carrots
Involution bowl by Gwendolyn Yoppolo

When this time of year rolls around, I am just about out of ideas when it comes to vegetables. I try to serve 2-3 portions of veggies per meal (one might be salad) but by early spring, I falter. I’ve made all the cabbage and cauliflower and beets I can stand and my vegetable drawer is looking pretty sad. Then I remember carrots and I am up and running.

Multicolored carrots can be a fun change

Roasting carrots became a habit back when I first learned to roast a chicken. You just put them in the pan under and around the bird and they soak up all the flavor of the drippings. You can choose traditional orange carrots or select mixed for a range of color. But carrots are delicious roasted on their own with just a bit of oil and a sprinkling of herbs. Use the traditional herbs like thyme and rosemary or try a variation zhuzhed up with cumin and cayenne for a change. 

Carrots ready to roast
Cumin/cayenne on left
Thyme/rosemary on right

Even simple carrots with just oil and salt and pepper taste good roasted. Za’atar, curry powder, cardamom and coriander are all possible substitutions. And if you really like them sweet, add a touch of sugar, honey or maple syrup with the oil. Use what you like and they will taste good to you. A hot oven does all the work—it is almost too easy to even call this a recipe. If you put them in the oven a little over a half an hour before you want to serve your meal, the carrots will be caramelized and yummy when you are ready to eat. 

Multicolored roasted carrots
Porcelain bowl by Gwendolyn Yoppolo

ROAST CARROTS

  • 1-2 lbs carrots, washed and scrubbed (If organic, you don’t need to peel unless really funky)
  • 1-2 TBs olive oil
  • 1 tsp thyme leaves
  • 1 tsp rosemary, chopped
  • (Alternately 1/2-1 tsp cumin and a tiny pinch of cayenne in place of herbs)
  • Sprinkle salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400F.

Cut carrots into 3” pieces and then halve each piece vertically. If thick, cut into quarters vertically to get carrot sticks.

Toss carrots with oils and then herbs and salt and pepper.

Place in a single layer on a rimmed sheet pan (I use parchment paper to make cleanup easier but I think they actually brown better without the paper).

Bake 30-45 minutes, turning once, until softened and browned.

Serves 4 or leftovers keep in the fridge for 2 days.

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I can’t say enough good things about Gwendolyn Yoppolo’s work. The glazes are not only rich and complex but so well researched that they are completely stable. I never worry about crazing or staining. And did I say beautiful and wonderful to use? I am a huge fan.

Involution bowl with crystalline glaze
by Gwendolyn Yoppolo
Harbinger of Spring

When You (Or Others)Are Stressed And In Need Of Clarity and Comfort, Try Cooking

Kitchari, tortilla, cornbread, baked beans (clockwise)
Melissa Weiss, Jen Allen, Wendy Goldsmith, Paul Eshelman

One of the things I love about cooking, beyond the edible results, is the ability the process has to get me out of my head. Like making art or exercise or a good conversation, preparing food takes planning, mental concentration and some physical exertion. So when I am worrying about an ailing parent or ill siblings or a struggling friend, I cook. I look through recipes, make lists, procure ingredients, measure, chop, grate and mix in order to prepare something for my family or friends to eat. The process requires focus to do well, thereby getting me off the worry wheel. 

Curried cabbage with cashews
Porcelain bowl by Jim Makins
Simple roasted potatoes
Bowl by Michael Connelly

Cooking not only relieves mental stress but gives me the satisfaction of a job well done while providing nourishment and, hopefully, pleasure to those I love. Soup is my go-to but sometimes a salad is needed, especially when people have been too busy to cook healthfully for themselves. The bean soup mix I posted a couple of months ago is a good example of a gift for someone with limited time and ability. But if someone is ill or mourning, bringing a prepared pot of soup or a big roast veggie platter or a long lasting salad, like carrot or fennel, is a better gift. When a new baby is born, I love to prepare a complete dinner (rice and beans, a batch of pesto, soup and cornbread, or roast chicken) because who can think about cooking with a newborn?

Miso soup
Lidded Jar by Gay Smith
Black beans and rice
Square bowl by Joe Pintz

Sometimes I make a frittata/tortilla when I feel frazzled and don’t know what else to cook. The chopping of the vegetables is soothing and the resulting meal is satisfying, not too heavy and can provide leftovers. Other comfort food favorites are kitchari, a simple pasta with peas or greens, curried cabbage with cashews, miso soup and lava bread. They are all easy, soothing and tasty, the winning triumvirate of stress cooking. And when even simple cooking is too much, there is always avocado toast!

Avocado toast on lava bread
Plate by Aysha Peltz