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A Good Dish

making food simpler

Why A Green Monster Might Just Become Your New Favorite Summer Breakfast

July 28, 2022

Green Monster smoothie
Earthenware mug by Michael Connelly

When summer days are hot, as they are now most of the summer, we switch our breakfasts from hearty to the light. Who wants to turn on the stove when it is hot? Not me, for sure. As soon as temperatures hit 80 degrees, steaming bowls of oatmeal with fruit and nuts and leftover rice with poached eggs give way to yogurt with berries, avocado toast and plant milk-based smoothies. 

Leahi Health menu

When we had the chance to spend several weeks on Oahu a few years back, one of our best food finds was a local healthy juice bar chain, Leahi Health, that made a terrific smoothie. My favorite was called a Green Monster and my husband loved the Coffee Monster, the same as mine plus a shot of cold brew. They didn’t give recipes but they did list ingredients, from which I estimated amounts. The only new item to me was powdered maca root, a brassica or cruciferous vegetable, which looks a little like a parsnip and is said to help balance hormones (yet to be confirmed). I try to use a frozen banana and chilled plant milk just to keep it all cold, something I crave all summer long, but ice will also do the trick. 

Maca root powder
Moringa is one add-in possibility

Our basic smoothies are simple, based on the Hawaiian green monster. Half a frozen banana, seeds (hemp, chia, ground flax for omega 3’s), a big handful or two of leafy greens (often bagged or else kale or moringa powder if I don’t have fresh), a couple of pitted dates and either almond, soy or oat milk get frothed together in the blender. Sometimes I add nuts or nut butter for protein and/or a quarter of a whole organic lemon (seeded). I might swap out the nut butter and add berries, frozen peaches, pineapple, açaí, mango or kiwi depending on what I have on hand. If I don’t have any frozen fruit, I might use cold brew coffee, cocoa powder or a combination, along with a banana, seeds, greens and dates. On really hot days, I trade in coconut water for the milk, skip the nut butter and add plenty of grated ginger to the greens and fruit. You can lighten and chill the whole thing by adding a few ice cubes before blending. Every time I make this smoothie, I conjure up palm trees and ocean breezes. Not a bad feeling on a warm summer morning. 

Add greens, etc. and blend until smooth
Verso of Windsor Chair mug
by Michael Connelly

GREEN MONSTER SMOOTHIE 

Blend until smooth:

  • 1 small banana, preferably frozen
  • 2 medjool dates, pitted
  • 1/2 tsp maca root powder 
  • 1 TB ground flax seed
  • 2 generous handfuls washed greens
  • 2-4 TBs almond butter
  • 2 cups cold plant milk
  • 2 ice cubes

Optional add-ins:

  • Hemp seeds
  • Moringa powder
  • Quarter lemon, seeded
  • Chia seeds
  • Espresso or cold brew coffee or coffee nibs

Kittery estuary

Kittery estuary

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Filed Under: Breakfast, Drinks, Restaurants

Cold Sesame Noodles: A Simple, Spicy And Addictive Recipe That Is An Easy Fix On A Hot Summer Day

July 1, 2020

Sesame noodles with peas and shoots
Stoneware plate by Mary Barringer

The Upper West Side of Manhattan used to be home to loads of good Chinese restaurants. Every few blocks, there was another reliably decent spot. Unfortunately, with gentrification came rising rents. As a result, our favorite local Chinese restaurants, Empire Szechuan and Chun Cha Fu, have been closed for years and we’ve never found a satisfactory replacement in our neighborhood. We can always go to to Chinatown or Flushing but we sure do miss having a good local standby. 

Small stoneware plates
by Mary Barringer

I ate at Empire when I first moved to the Upper West Side, when I was dating my husband, with our son and my sister and her family and with my in-laws as well as with out-of-town guests. It was our go-to for delivery whenever I just couldn’t cook. Their spicy soups got me through a lot of colds in my 20’s. Chun Cha Fu (now Carmine’s) had banquet rooms that could serve 3 or 4 families at big round tables with an enormous turntable in the center for rotating dishes. My husband’s family ate there when he was a kid and my family went there with 2 others to celebrate our college graduation. In college, we often ate at the Cantonese style Moon Palace a few blocks from school, but once we discovered the sesame noodles (and everything else) at Empire, there was no turning back. That big plate of spicy and sweet cold noodles with a heap of julienned cucumber was my gateway dish to a whole other world of food. 

I like udon in this recipe
but spaghetti or Chinese egg noodles
or soba also work well

I recently got a craving for those noodles and since there isn’t a local Szechuan place I can reliably order from, I decided to recreate them as best I could. There are lots of sesame noodle recipes out there. Some use tahini and others peanut butter. Some include black tea, sriracha, garlic oil or sugar. I culled the ingredients that I thought would taste good and then added a splash of mirin, a Japanese rice wine that is definitely not traditional but gave a little sweetness without added sugar. I didn’t have cucumber so, since I am trying to make do with what I do have, I substituted frozen peas, scallions and some pea shoots I’ve been growing in a sunny window. (When I made it a second time, I added the more traditional cucumber but actually liked the peas better). I used udon noodles but spaghetti, egg or rice noodles would work, too. If you are not eating any flour or grain, I think this sauce would be delicious on broccoli, chicken skewers or baked tofu. I’m not sure I got the recipe just like Empire’s but on a hot day when I didn’t want to heat up the kitchen, these cold noodles took me down memory lane and hit the spot.

Sesame noodles with cucumbers
Stoneware plate by Mary Barringer

SPICY SESAME NOODLES 

Cook one 8 oz package of udon noodles according to directions (don’t overcook), drain, cool with cold water and set aside. Save a splash of the pasta water to thin the sauce.

For the sauce whisk together:

  • 1/3 cup peanut butter, chunky or smooth or 1/4 cup tahini
  • 3 TBs soy sauce
  • 1 TBs neutral oil 
  • 1 TBs toasted sesame oil
  • 1TBs mirin
  • 1TBs rice or sherry vinegar
  • 1/2 tsp granulated garlic or 1TBs grated fresh garlic
  • 1 TBs grated ginger
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper or to taste (or chili oil or sriracha)

Loosen with a splash of the pasta water

Add noodles to sauce and toss to coat along with your choice of:

  • 1/2 cup frozen peas, blanched and cooled
  • 1 bell pepper, any color, julienned or diced
  • 2-3 scallions, thinly sliced
  • A big handful of pea shoots or bean sprouts
  • Cold cooked or blanched greens like arugula, watercress, spinach or kale
  • Even leftover broccoli could work in bite sized pieces

Top with your choice of:

  • Toasted sesame seeds
  • Chopped peanuts
  • Chopped fresh cilantro, parsley or mint
  • Julienned cucumber
  • Squeeze of lime juice
  • Thinly sliced or cubed baked tofu

Serves 3-4 people (or 2 if your son is hungry) and can be easily doubled to serve more or leave in the fridge to eat the next day. It makes a perfect picnic lunch. 

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Filed Under: Recipes, Restaurants, Starches

It Is Getting Much Easier To Find A Great Grass-Fed Burger In New York And Beyond

January 26, 2019

Grass-fed burger from The Double Windsor
Plate by Adero Willard

Even though I try to eat clean, healthy food most of the time, sometimes I just crave a big, juicy burger. When I do eat meat, I want it to be from a grass-fed, well raised animal. It used to be almost impossible to find a good grass-fed burger in Manhattan but that is changing quickly. There were plenty of good tasting burgers, always have been. Now you can find great grass-fed in most neighborhoods, even in some chain restaurants (Bareburger and Umami Burger, for example).  

Grass-fed Umami Burger

There are many reasons to choose grass-fed, including your health and the health and welfare of the animal supplying your meals. Cows are ruminants, which means they are constituted to eat grass, not grains. The fat they produce eating grass is different (and healthier) as is the quality of their lives than when eating grain, which causes them a lot of gas. Even if you don’t care about animal welfare, you might care about global warming (think about all that additional methane from grain-fed animals) or your own longevity, in which case, you would be choosing better (read completely grass-fed beef and eat it less frequently. It is lower in calories since it is leaner and it provides more omega 3 fatty acids – the kind we want.

Grass-fed burger at Cleaver Counter (formerly The Green Table)

I’ve read that all the meat advertised as grass-fed may not be, so it is worth asking the restaurant or your server where you eat your burger where they get their beef. Organic, Wagyu and Angus don’t necessarily mean grass-fed and, in most cases, are not (organic refers to the quality of the feed, usually corn and Wagyu and Angus are types of cattle). Hopefully, disclosure in restaurants and markets will get more transparent as better grass-fed beef becomes more widely available. 

Grass-fed burger at Smorgas Chef

Okay – lecture over – now to the burgers. There are certainly many great grass-fed burgers I haven’t tried but these are the burgers I can recommend, including a few in other cities. Many of these places also serve a good bison or veggie burger and often serve delicious French or sweet potato fries or a  salad with the burger. I’ve found the best way to order (or cook) grass-fed meat is medium rare. If you overcook grass-fed beef, it tastes, well, too grassy.

Grass-fed burger from Community Food & Juice
Grass-fed burger in a collard green wrap at Bareburger

New York Burgers I Have Known and Loved:

  • Bareburger (multiple locations including Upper East and West Side and West Village)-Good tasting and if you aren’t eating bread, you can get this served in a collard leaf
  • Buttermilk Channel (Carroll Gardens)-tasty and juicy in a hopping neighborhood cafe
  • Cleaver Counter (Chelsea Market- used to be The Green Table)-now served not with kimchi but with bacon jam-yum
  • Community Juice and Wine (Morningside Heights)-with caramelized onions and cheddar
  • Cookshop (Chelsea near the High Line)
  • The Distillery (formerly the Brickyard Gastropub in Midtown West)-with sautéed onions and avocado (very reasonable price) and a very good veggie burger – great lunch specials
  • The Double Windsor (Windsor Terrace)-with cheddar and pickles in a neighborhood tavern with a great selection of draft beer, cider and whiskey
  • Ella Kitchen & Bar (Upper West Side)-big well-salted patty with sautéed mushrooms and mozzarella – open for lunch and dinner
  • The Meat Hook (Gowanus in Threes Brewing)-a kitchen outpost of a well-respected, conscientious  Brooklyn butcher shop in a bar with a big draft selection and a garden
  • Smorgas Chef (Midtown East in Scandinavia House)-a quiet respite south of Grand Central with a very good burger
  • Tessa (Upper West Side)
  • Umami Burger (all over) really tasty, especially with Parmesan fricco (a yummy fried cheese crisp) and mushrooms or salsa 
  • Upland (Park Avenue South)-with avocado and peppadew peppers in a big, bustling brasserie
Grass-fed burger at Ella Kitchen & Bar

Beyond New York:

  • Allen Street Hardware Cafe in Buffalo-plus an amazing bison burger
  • Busboys & Poets, DC (and good salads)
  • Toups South in New Orleans-everything delicious (sit at the counter to watch the cooks)
  • Village Whiskey, White Dog, Tired Hands (actually Ardmore) and Standard Tap in Philadelphia
  • BelCampo Restaurant in Larkspur (Marin County, CA) with restaurants in SF, Palo Alto, Santa Monica and LA – delicious burgers made from beef from their own farm/ranch
  • Farmburger, Asheville (amazing onion rings)
  • Sweet Pea Cafe, Mount Desert Island, ME
  • The Table in London’s Southwark (across from Tate Modern)
  • Row 34 in the Seaport District in Boston
Grass-fed burger at Village Whiskey in Philadelphia

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Filed Under: Meat, Places, Restaurants

Food Halls – Expanding Options for Dining and Take-out in New York and Beyond

September 20, 2017

Gotham Market (on the far west side of midtown) offers counter and picnic style seating

The most interesting article on food in The Times last week wasn’t in the food section (although Pete Wells’ pizza review was mouthwatering). Rather it was the piece on Food Halls in the business section that caught my attention. Food halls are growing in popularity and number and not only in New York. These markets are not the old fast food courts; the best of them bring together some of the tastiest and most accessible food offerings in our cities.

Before the advent of chain grocery stores, most major cities had a central food market or hall, or several. But unlike European and Canadian cities with amazing, sometimes multi-floored market halls, we no longer have a traditional covered food market here. What seems to be a growing trend, however, is the newfangled covered food hall – a collection of food venders who are restaurant, food truck, or caterer based – providing creative selections of prepared foods and creating hubs of neighborhood hangouts and destination dining far beyond the offerings of a fast food court.

Ivan Ramen is one of the options for a quick and delicious meal at Gotham Market

Perhaps the first of these locations was the Chelsea Market, the repurposed former Nabisco factory which covers an entire block between 15th and 16th streets and 9th and 10th avenues. It was repurposed in the 1990’s to provide vendors enough space to house production and retail operations in the same place and included not just restaurants but also bakeries, grocers, a wine shop, importers and kitchenware. Today it has expanded to include coffee, clothing, a bookstore, delicious tacos, gelato and many smaller vendors. The public spaces include lots of communal seating areas which makes for easy picnicking whether alone or in a group.

Since then, the number of food halls has exploded, especially in recent years, bringing together all kinds of artisanal and chef-run food counters, restaurants, food trucks and stalls and baristas. Some of the best we’ve tried:

Gotham West Market (on 11th Avenue and 44th Street) with excellent ramen and tapas alongside salads and burgers. We recently saw neighborhood folks gathered there to drink/eat at the communal tables and watch the televised US Open.

Turnstyle Underground Market (in the Columbus Circle subway concourse) made a useful, appealing and tasty (not to mention good smelling) dining destination out of a dank MTA passageway. Great for a quick bite in Midtown and handy for grabbing a gift on the run.

The arepa factory in Turnstyle in the Columbus Circle Subway Concourse

Hudson Eats (in Brookfield Place in the World Financial Center) which has a terrific 2 beers for the price of one happy hour at Tartinery and $3 draft beers at Northern Tiger as well as a broad offering of tasty food including Umami Burger.

Plaza Food Hall (under the Plaza Hotel at 59th St and Fifth Avenue) where you can get a lobster roll or just a cup of coffee and a croissant.

Great Northern Food Hall (in Grand Central Terminal) which is really one vendor with many types of offerings from coffee and pastry to sandwiches, a grain counter, liquor and a very upscale restaurant. See my review from last fall.

Some of the fresh vegetable offerings at Eataly

Eataly NYC Flatiron, (23rd Street and Fifth Avenue) which is essentially a segmented grocery store with upscale Italian dining options at counters, restaurants and pizza but with a bakery, cafe, fish counter, food counters, liquor, kitchenware, pasta, cheese and meats plus one of the best produce markets in the city and delicious coffee that won’t break the bank.

The Pennsy (33rd Street and 7th Avenue) Expensive but with some vegan options and a friendly bar in the rear if you need a decent spot to grab a bite or drink near Penn Station.

Gansevoort Market (14th Street near 9th Avenue) calls itself a rustic-industrial food hall since it moved from the actual old Gansevoort Market and has counters for crepes, pizza, empanadas and other snack type meals. There is a pleasant spacious area in the back with tables and is far less crowded than the Chelsea market around the corner.

Really tasty vegetarian and gluten’free option at the arepa factory in Turnstyle

Others I’ve read about that sound good but I haven’t tried yet include Urbanspace Vanderbilt (across the street from Grand Central), Industry City Food Hall (in the Industry City Complex in Sunset Park, Brooklyn), Dekalb Market Hall (Downtown Brooklyn) and Canal Street Market (Canal near Lafayette St.). There is also Smorgasburg, that vast outdoor prepared food fest which lies somewhere between a food truck rally and a food hall. It been so successful that it now exists in 3 locations (Williamsburg, Prospect Park and Canal Street) around the city.

Cupcakes at Georgia’s Bakery would be an easy grab and go gift in the Turnstyle Underground Market

New York is not alone in the food hall explosion; There are terrific food halls in Copenhagen (Copenhagen Street Food), London (Spitalfields), San Francisco (the Ferry Building) and even Grand Rapids (Downtown Market) among many other cities. Sometimes it is a relief to have a place where you can roam around to see what you feel like eating instead of going to dine in a restaurant. You can eat quickly and informally at a counter or just get take out and plop down at a table. And not everyone in your group has to order from the same place. One person might have grilled octopus on mashed potatoes while another may prefer a bowl of ramen or salad. These halls are like a newfangled neighborhood, where people can hang out or take out, all under one roof, great for singles as well as couples or groups. And because they appear to be growing in popularity and to add value to gentrifying and developing urban areas, I think we will see many more soon.

Copenhagen Street Food with indoor and outdoor seating

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Filed Under: Places, Restaurants

The Great Northern Food Hall: A Reason to Head for Grand Central Station

October 19, 2016

Great Northern Food Hall in the western half of Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Station
Great Northern Food Hall in the western half of Vanderbilt Hall
at Grand Central Station

It used to be that if you were catching a train at Grand Central Station and needed something to eat, you could grab a bagel at Zaro’s, some nuts at Hudson News or hunker down for a meal at the Oyster Bar. In recent years, the lower level food court has been upgraded and improved but I wouldn’t eat there by choice. The high- end marketplace on the Lexington Avenue side of the station, anchored by Eli Zabar’s and including a nut shop, fish market, coffee shop, flowers, cheese and charcuterie is well stocked but it is quite pricey. I would buy bread or a gift there but nothing else really beckons to me.

The Grain Bar on one side of the Great Northern Food Hall serving morning porridges and full meals later in the day
The Grain Bar on one side of the Great Northern Food Hall
serving morning porridges and full meals later in the day

I’m happy to report there are new grab and go and dine-in options in Grand Central. Claus Meyer, the Danish restaurateur who opened a chain of bakeries and Noma (voted best restaurant for several years running) in Copenhagen, recently turned his culinary talents to bringing Scandinavian food to New York. Starting with a pop-up patisserie, now brick and mortar, and a coffee roaster in Brooklyn, he has now tackled Manhattan. Lucky for us, he opened the Great Nordic Food Hall this summer in half of Vanderbilt Hall, the old Grand Central waiting room on 42nd Street, a bakery and deli near the IRT subway, a “hot dog” (really sausage) kiosk, and Agern, a high end restaurant focusing on local and seasonal food and drink, which I haven’t tried yet but hope to find an occasion to do so.

Havarti Sandwich ($3.50) at the Great Northern Food Hall and the Great Northern Deli
Havarti Sandwich ($3.50) at the Great Northern Food Hall
and the Great Northern Deli

Since finding the Meyer Bageri (the bakery) at the Great Northern Deli, I have detoured whenever in the neighborhood or taking the train or the shuttle (just down the hall) to buy a sourdough or whole grain rye bread and, full disclosure, the raspberry bars – they are heavenly! Full of freshly made raspberry filling and sweet, buttery pastry, they are a reason to take the train. After sampling the delectable almond poppyseed twist and flaky, creamy maple pecan Danish, I didn’t dare try their gluten-free valrhona chocolate brownies but they look fantastic. The deli also sells sandwiches, drinks, bags of granola, cookbooks and gift items, in case you forgot a little something, either as a hostess gift or to eat while waiting for or riding a train.

Grab coffee, sandwiches, salads, bread, pastry and all kinds of food gifts at the Great Northern Deli off the hallway near the S shuttle to Times Square
Grab coffee, sandwiches, salads, bread, pastry and all kinds of food gifts
at the Great Northern Deli near the S shuttle to Times Square
Hindbaersnitte (what Meyers Bageri calls a Danish pop tart with raspberry)
Hindbaersnitte (what Meyers Bageri calls a Danish pop tart with raspberry)

Next door to the deli is the diminutive but well designed and very tasty Danish Dogs. These are not traditional hot dogs but for $8 you have a choice of 4 kinds of sausage on an in-house made hot dog bun with abundant and interesting toppings including lingonberries, beet remoulade, cucumber salad, sorrel leaves and fried onions. Just remembering the delicious chicken sausage assemblage I ate there makes me want to return in a hurry! Until 10:30 every morning (when it is really too early to be seen eating a hot dog), this counter serves made to order $7 omelet sandwiches.

$8 Sausage Sandwiches at the Danish Dogs Kiosk
$8 Sausage Sandwiches at the Danish Dogs Kiosk

The food hall is appealingly spare, in neutral tones with a calm vibe (remarkable considering its setting) and includes a bar, coffee counter and kiosks for sandwiches (both open face Danish style smorrebrod and regular) and baked goods. There are plenty of tables for eating what you purchase as well as a sit-down, full service cafe for salads and hot food. Over the summer, my husband and I tried several sandwiches, drinks and desserts – all were excellent, including the coffee (from Meyer’s Brownsville Roasters.) Our favorite was the celeriac sandwich (thinly sliced celery root, green apple and walnut ($10) on a flavorful in-house made whole grain “hoagie” and the above mentioned hindbaersnitte, the raspberry bar so good my mouth waters just thinking about it.

Celeriac Sandwich at Meyers Bageri
Celeriac Sandwich at Meyers Bageri

The philosophy behind the food hall is as attractive as the food displays. The lowest paid employees start at the living wage of $15/hour with benefits – what other casual dining arena in New York can say that? Food is actually locally sourced and well raised, there is a feeling of quality over quantity, and although it is busy, the food hall is a pleasant place to sit and have a coffee, lunch or drink at the bar. It is not that the food is less expensive than what I could find in the downstairs food court. It’s just that it is so much more appealing on so many levels. Instead of just grabbing the least “bad” thing I could find while running for a train, the Nordic Food Hall is a place at which I will plan to eat often and intentionally.

Smorrebrod (open face sandwiches) at Great Northern Food Hall
Smorrebrod (open face sandwiches)
at Great Northern Food Hall

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Filed Under: Breakfast, dessert, Drinks, Farm to table, Places, Restaurants

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Spring Market on Columbus Ave
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Welcome to A Good Dish

Here you will find recipes and ideas for easy to make and tasty meals, sources for interesting dinnerware on which to serve those meals and resources for ingredients, classes and food related travel. My goal is to make daily cooking simpler and to inspire you to try different recipes beyond the handful you already make repeatedly. I hope that relaying my experiences will enhance yours. Follow along and let me know about your own cooking and food journeys.

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