A Good Dish

making food simpler

Love Rye Bread? It Is Easier Than You Might Imagine To Make It Yourself

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Homemade seeded rye bread
Large blue and white stoneware bowl
by Wendy Goldsmith

I love rye bread, especially for toast and sandwiches. It has a specific flavor quite different from the more common wheat breads that derives not just from the rye flour but mostly from the caraway seeds. It is somewhat sour, somewhat sweet and just mildly salty. It is also one of the easiest yeast breads to make since the texture is dense and not as persnickety as sourdough, challah or sandwich loaves.

Brushing the loaf with lightly beaten egg white
makes the crust darker and glossy

Because it is so simple, the quality of your flour is important so it isn’t stale, rancid or devoid of nutrients. Buy fresh rye and wheat flour from good sources (King Arthur, Arrowhead Mills and Bob’s Red Mill are widely available but you may have a local (or near local mill) you shop) and keep it in your freezer if you don’t use it up quickly. Here is a list of excellent millers. The original of this recipe by Jeanne Heyerly of Chenoa, IL (from a community cookbook called Simply In Season) only called for 1 cup of rye flour in the sponge (the first step in bread making which starts fermentation) and 3 cups of bread flour to be added. Bread flour has higher protein than all-purpose so it forms more gluten, resulting in a better rise and texture. I tried to use equal parts whole rye, whole wheat and white flour to have more rye and more whole grain and it was good but quite dense. If you want to add some whole grain, try one cup of whole wheat and see what you think. The tiny amount of sugar is optional but I think the flavor of rye profits from a bit of sweetness. Honey, maple or date syrup, apple juice concentrate or agave are all usable.

Either grinding your own or buying fresh, good quality
flour makes a big difference to taste and nutrition
The sponge is simply some flour, water,
caraway seeds and yeast mixed to start fermentation

Growing up, I used to go shopping with my mother at a grocery store that had an in-store bakery that made fresh rye bread. The bakery women used to give us (kids) a cookie with sprinkles or a candied cherry when we tagged along but the crusty end of the freshly sliced (in those amazing bread slicers I always feared would take off someone’s fingers) rye bread was my preference. I still choose bread over cookies and rye is one of my favorites, especially for avocado toast, smoked salmon, grilled cheese or a bbq tempeh Reuben. This recipe makes one big loaf or two smaller loaves, one of which you can freeze for up to a few months.

Because it is moist and dense,
this rye bread slices easily

I asked a bread-baking phobic friend to try this recipe and she had encouraging results. She used one cup rye and 2 cups whole wheat in her trial and she found she had to add a little more water in order to knead the dough, which was too dry. Her bread was dense but she likes it that way. I am so happy she is optimistic about continuing to bake bread. Whether you use all white bread flour or some combination of flours, I wish you the same results.

Smoked salmon and smashed avocado
are both delicious on rye bread or toast
Platter by Wendy Goldsmith
This bread makes great toast!
Platter by Wendy Goldsmith

SEEDED RYE BREAD

Sponge:

Mix in a large bowl and let stand 3-5 minutes to proof:

  • 1 cup/250 ml warm water
  • 1 TBs active dry yeast

Add and stir in:

  • 1 cup/250 grams rye flour
  • 1/4 cup/ 60 grams bread flour
  • 1 generous TBs caraway seeds
Cover with a tight lid or plastic wrap and let stand 2 hours (or overnight (in fridge if it is warm out) for “the sponge” to develop more flavor).

Next day, stir down the yeast sponge and add:

  • 3 cups/750 grams bread flour (or a mix of whole wheat bread and all purpose)
  • 2 1/2 tsps salt
  • 1-2 tsps sugar (optional)
 Knead about 5 minutes (if too dry, wet your hands to add a bit more water until kneadable) and then place in a greased bowl, turning to grease all over.

Cover with a damp cloth and let rise until doubled, about one hour.

Punch down and shape into one large loaf (tucking sides under to tighten the ball) or 2 small loaves, letting rise until doubled again.

Brush loaf with a lightly beaten egg white before baking and again 10 minutes before end of baking to promote a shiny crust. You can add more caraway seeds to the top if you like.

You can bake on a rimmed cookie or baking sheet or in a Dutch oven.

Bake in preheated oven (375F) for 35-45 minutes, depending on loaf size. Check for doneness by tapping on the bottom (it should sound hollow) or check temperature for 190F.

Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing.

Note – When I bake bread, I usually measure in grams because it is more precise and baking is an exercise in precision. This recipe is so foolproof, however, that such extreme precision doesn’t seem necessary so I use cup measurements here for ease and because not everyone has a gram scale. I have included both measurements so use whichever you prefer.

Floral honeycomb platter
by Wendy Goldsmith
Wendy Goldsmith’s wonderful ceramics can be purchased on Ohanga.com and this summer at sales and festivals including The Art Drive
The beautifully finished underside of
Wendy Goldsmith’s beehive platter

An Un-Hollandaise Sauce For Dipping Spring Vegetables Like Artichokes And Asparagus

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Carved porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

Now that fresh artichokes are available in grocery stores, you want to make something delicious in which to dip their leaves. A steamed artichoke, a vegetable rich in folate, is a treat with melted butter but is elevated to another state with a scrumptious dip. Hollandaise sauce, a traditional accompaniment to both artichokes and asparagus, has always been too rich for me. Plus, unless I’ve met the chicken whose eggs I’m eating, anything with raw egg in it makes me skittish. 

Growing up, we dipped our artichokes in a homemade mustardy vinaigrette with chopped, hard-boiled eggs.  My mother clipped the recipe from a monthly newsletter 40 or so years ago and still pulls it out every spring to sauce artichokes. When I went to copy down the recipe decades ago, it was already worn and speckled with drops of oil and now my own copy looks much the same. The original recipe in the newsletter came from Paul Steindler, a Czech chef who ran La Popotte restaurant in New York.

For years I made Mom’s recipe just as she had prepared it, but then it occurred to me that a few changes might lighten it up a bit. I swapped in apple cider vinegar for white distilled, replaced the white sugar with date purée and went back to the Dijon mustard that was in the original (not the bright yellow “French’s” hot dog mustard she used in those days). The newsletter recipe called for half a cup of olive oil but that made the vinaigrette too rich for my taste and tolerance. I cut the oil to 2 tablespoons and instead of adding a chopped egg at the end, I added 2 hard boiled eggs and blended them completely to thicken it all into an unctuous and tangy dip, much lighter than the original. For a vegan version, you could try substituting aquafaba or flax slurry for the eggs. If you want it more yellow, add some turmeric. 

After cutting the pointy end with a knife,
trim sharp tips easily with a scissors

We still celebrate spring with artichokes and asparagus dipped in this delicious mustardy vinaigrette only now I feel good about making it. This combination of a vegetable with a protein makes it a meal, especially if you don’t want a heavy supper. If there is any sauce left over, it makes a pretty good dip for carrots or cold leftover asparagus or to enliven plain cooked fish or chicken. You can prepare this vinaigrette ahead, as it will keep in the refrigerator a day or so, and just re-blend it while the artichokes or asparagus are steaming. 

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

UN-HOLLANDAISE OR HOLLANDAISE-ISH SAUCE

Process until smooth in a blender:

  • 3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 Tb apple cider, white or white wine vinegar 
  • 2 Tbs Dijon mustard 
  • 1 tsp date purée or syrup (or maple syrup, honey, agave, sugar)
  • 1/2 tsp Worcester sauce 
  • 1-2 Tbs olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • Pinch turmeric-optional 

Add and blend until smooth and thickened:

  • 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Great as a dip for artichokes (pour right into the center of a cooked and cleaned artichoke or in a small bowl for dipping) or drizzled over steamed asparagus. Store any leftover in the refrigerator for one day. Fills 4 large artichokes.

I originally posted this recipe in the first year of A Good Dish. This is an updated version with new photos to reach all new readers who have subscribed in the last five years and to remind others to make it. Thanks for reading along.

Porcelain butter dish
by Janel Jacobson

Janel Jacobson makes carved and fluted functional porcelain and stoneware pots, paying attention to form, surface and function. Once a student of Marguerite Wildenhain in California, she makes pots and carved wood sculpture in the Sunrise, Minnesota studio she shares with her husband, potter Will Swanson. Jacobson and Swanson will be one stop on the Mother’s Day weekend St Croix Pottery Tour I have longed to attend for many years. Fortunately , there will be an online sale in conjunction with the studio tour this year. Hope to get there in person next year! 

So many buds on this yellow magnolia!

Mushrooms And Beans Together For Dinner – Really? Really!

Mushrooms and beans
Stoneware bowl by Emily Schroeder Willis

You’ve heard me rave many times about Rancho Gordo (the Northern California company that sells heirloom beans). Their beans are fresher, tastier and cook better than most other dry beans I have ever bought (the only others that I’ve found that come close are Eden and local farmers market beans). Rancho Gordo has a bean club, a quarterly delivery of 6 pounds of beans plus recipes and a bonus. Well, after almost 3 years on the waiting list, I got in – woohoo! Now I have the pleasure of paying for and receiving their choice of beans 4 times a year. This means no decision making and trying new beans as well as receiving their newsletter and recipes. Plus it will prompt me to keep cooking beans so they don’t pile up in my cupboard.

My first bean club delivery

Cooking a pot of beans a week is an old trick for always having something to make for dinner. For example, I cooked the pinto beans that came in my first delivery and made this mushroom and bean recipe two nights in a row because they were so good. Once I served them with boiled Yukon Gold potatoes and the other time with rice, but I think they would be good with sweet potatoes or just with toast or greens. Then I used the rest of the beans to bulk up nachos on a cold day and ultimately made a bean dip (just blended salsa, cumin, garlic, cilantro and beans) with the remainder of the pintos. That was 4 generous meals from a pound of beans. Tasty, easy and super budget-conscious.

I used a variety of wild and cremini mushrooms
but any type will work
Minced garlic, shallots, herbs,
salt and pepper
Sauté a variety of mushrooms until they
start to release their liquid content

In my first delivery, along with the beans and bonus Stardust chili powder, was the recipe for mushrooms and beans, something I had never thought of making. I don’t know why but this combination had never occurred to me. It was simple (basically sautéed mushrooms to which you add cooked beans) and surprisingly delicious. I used mostly wild mushrooms, added a big splash of white wine for liquid, plus some minced shallot, additional thyme for more flavor and swapped the amounts of butter and oil. I also added some chopped cilantro just before serving (some green help to break up the brown/beige color) but parsley, pea shoots, frozen peas or arugula would have been fine alternatives. Red wine or balsamic or even cider vinegar could have worked too, for a different flavor. Any beans will work in this recipe. Along with some sautéed broccoli rabe, we are having mushrooms and beans for dinner for the 3rd time in 10 days. Really.

Mushrooms and pinto beans
Stoneware bowl by Emily Schroeder Willis

RANCHO GORDO SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS AND BEANS

  • 1/2 lb wild mushrooms, cut in bite sized pieces
  • 1/4-1/2 lb cremini mushrooms, cut in bite sized pieces
  • 2 TBs olive oil
  • 1 TBs butter
  • 1 tsp thyme leaves
  • 2-3 garlic cloves, minced (a heaping TBs)
  • 1 shallot, minced (a heaping TBs)
  • Splash white wine, white vermouth or sherry
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • Pinch cayenne (optional)
  • 2 cups cooked beans with some of the cooking broth (to make the consistency you like)
  • Chopped fresh parsley or cilantro, arugula, watercress or pea shoots.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat and warm the oil and butter together.

Add mushrooms, garlic, shallot and thyme.

Sauté, stirring often, until mushrooms soften.

Add splash of wine, salt, pepper and cayenne, if using, and taste for seasoning.

Stir in cooked beans to warm plus parsley (or whatever green you are using) and serve, topped with a drizzle of olive oil and more black pepper, as suits you.

Stoneware “ice cream bowl” interior
by Emily Schroeder Willis

EMILY SCHROEDER WILLIS handbuilds pots that contrast sophisticated, minimal graphic imagery, colors and shapes with the overall textured surfaces created by the most basic of techniques – pinching. Her more recent work, like the small bowl here, incorporates more color and whimsy. She is a member of Objective Clay and her work may be found at Clay Akar, Schaller Gallery and Artaxis.

Stoneware mug
Photo courtesy of the artist
Handled Vase
Photo courtesy of the artist
Stoneware Mug
Photo courtesy of the artist
All kinds of Spring blues

Don’t Think You Have A Vegetable To Make For Dinner? Just Roast Carrots!

Roasted carrots
Involution bowl by Gwendolyn Yoppolo

When this time of year rolls around, I am just about out of ideas when it comes to vegetables. I try to serve 2-3 portions of veggies per meal (one might be salad) but by early spring, I falter. I’ve made all the cabbage and cauliflower and beets I can stand and my vegetable drawer is looking pretty sad. Then I remember carrots and I am up and running.

Multicolored carrots can be a fun change

Roasting carrots became a habit back when I first learned to roast a chicken. You just put them in the pan under and around the bird and they soak up all the flavor of the drippings. You can choose traditional orange carrots or select mixed for a range of color. But carrots are delicious roasted on their own with just a bit of oil and a sprinkling of herbs. Use the traditional herbs like thyme and rosemary or try a variation zhuzhed up with cumin and cayenne for a change. 

Carrots ready to roast
Cumin/cayenne on left
Thyme/rosemary on right

Even simple carrots with just oil and salt and pepper taste good roasted. Za’atar, curry powder, cardamom and coriander are all possible substitutions. And if you really like them sweet, add a touch of sugar, honey or maple syrup with the oil. Use what you like and they will taste good to you. A hot oven does all the work—it is almost too easy to even call this a recipe. If you put them in the oven a little over a half an hour before you want to serve your meal, the carrots will be caramelized and yummy when you are ready to eat. 

Multicolored roasted carrots
Porcelain bowl by Gwendolyn Yoppolo

ROAST CARROTS

  • 1-2 lbs carrots, washed and scrubbed (If organic, you don’t need to peel unless really funky)
  • 1-2 TBs olive oil
  • 1 tsp thyme leaves
  • 1 tsp rosemary, chopped
  • (Alternately 1/2-1 tsp cumin and a tiny pinch of cayenne in place of herbs)
  • Sprinkle salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400F.

Cut carrots into 3” pieces and then halve each piece vertically. If thick, cut into quarters vertically to get carrot sticks.

Toss carrots with oils and then herbs and salt and pepper.

Place in a single layer on a rimmed sheet pan (I use parchment paper to make cleanup easier but I think they actually brown better without the paper).

Bake 30-45 minutes, turning once, until softened and browned.

Serves 4 or leftovers keep in the fridge for 2 days.

              *                    *                  *                    *                   *         

I can’t say enough good things about Gwendolyn Yoppolo’s work. The glazes are not only rich and complex but so well researched that they are completely stable. I never worry about crazing or staining. And did I say beautiful and wonderful to use? I am a huge fan.

Involution bowl with crystalline glaze
by Gwendolyn Yoppolo
Harbinger of Spring

When You (Or Others)Are Stressed And In Need Of Clarity and Comfort, Try Cooking

Kitchari, tortilla, cornbread, baked beans (clockwise)
Melissa Weiss, Jen Allen, Wendy Goldsmith, Paul Eshelman

One of the things I love about cooking, beyond the edible results, is the ability the process has to get me out of my head. Like making art or exercise or a good conversation, preparing food takes planning, mental concentration and some physical exertion. So when I am worrying about an ailing parent or ill siblings or a struggling friend, I cook. I look through recipes, make lists, procure ingredients, measure, chop, grate and mix in order to prepare something for my family or friends to eat. The process requires focus to do well, thereby getting me off the worry wheel. 

Curried cabbage with cashews
Porcelain bowl by Jim Makins
Simple roasted potatoes
Bowl by Michael Connelly

Cooking not only relieves mental stress but gives me the satisfaction of a job well done while providing nourishment and, hopefully, pleasure to those I love. Soup is my go-to but sometimes a salad is needed, especially when people have been too busy to cook healthfully for themselves. The bean soup mix I posted a couple of months ago is a good example of a gift for someone with limited time and ability. But if someone is ill or mourning, bringing a prepared pot of soup or a big roast veggie platter or a long lasting salad, like carrot or fennel, is a better gift. When a new baby is born, I love to prepare a complete dinner (rice and beans, a batch of pesto, soup and cornbread, or roast chicken) because who can think about cooking with a newborn?

Miso soup
Lidded Jar by Gay Smith
Black beans and rice
Square bowl by Joe Pintz

Sometimes I make a frittata/tortilla when I feel frazzled and don’t know what else to cook. The chopping of the vegetables is soothing and the resulting meal is satisfying, not too heavy and can provide leftovers. Other comfort food favorites are kitchari, a simple pasta with peas or greens, curried cabbage with cashews, miso soup and lava bread. They are all easy, soothing and tasty, the winning triumvirate of stress cooking. And when even simple cooking is too much, there is always avocado toast!

Avocado toast on lava bread
Plate by Aysha Peltz