A Good Dish

making food simpler

What to Cook in Spring When Local Still Means Root Vegetables

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Golden beets with dill vinaigrette
Plate by Mary Barringer

Local asparagus is coming. So are ramps, fiddleheads and green garlic. But until they get here, we still need vegetables to eat. I am cleaning out my fridge and freezer this spring, trying to use up the jarred, frozen and preserved fruits and vegetables I stocked it with last fall. And then there are the roots.

Carrots (and beets) are available in several colors

Beets, watermelon radishes, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas and celery root are still available at our local markets as are potatoes and sweet potatoes. While the weather is still cool enough, and before the local greens arrive, I will continue to roast, steam, mash and sauté them, as suitable, and add them to soups. Root vegetables are quite nutritious, if grown in good soil, and usually quite inexpensive. If you browse social media, shots of root vegetable roasts seem to be trending. Perhaps roots are the new kale. Don’t forget horseradish is a root, is available right now and preparing it couldn’t be much easier (see recipe). Remember that roots also make wonderful salads which even improve after sitting in the refrigerator overnight.

Horseradish roots

I have linked below to several past posts that included root recipes. I keep linking to them in the hope that they will help you use up the contents of your crisper or give you some inspiration when you go to the market. Local greens will be here soon. But until then, don’t forget your roots!

 

Plate by Margaret Bohls

Cooked Carrots

 

Oval bowl by Emily Schroeder Willis

Carrot Salad

 

(top) – oval bowl by Robbie Lobell
(below) – Shino glazed bowl by Malcolm Davis

Beet Salad Two Ways

 

Glazed Porcelain Dish by Andrew Martin

Roasted Parsnips

 

Squared Bowl by Silvie Granatelli

Sautéed Watermelon Radish

Trash Talk – Making Good Use of Garbage

It is easy to collect compost when the container is as gorgeous as this raku vessel by Liz Rudey

Composting, the act of transforming food waste into a nutritional soil booster through decomposition, is a way of turning garbage into something good. Not only does the act of composting reduce our volume of trash but it also creates a nourishing substance for plants, soil and crops. It is a cyclical process that appears to be a win win for everyone and isn’t hard – all it takes is the will to do it (and a sturdy lidded container that is washable and easy to transport). Really.

Information on how and where to compost is available at farmers markets throughout the city.

Mayor Blumberg proposed mandatory composting as far back as 2013 but so far curbside collection happens only voluntarily, with some 3 million New Yorkers participating, according to the Department of Sanitation. Unlike other programs (I’m thinking Citibike), regular curbside pickup is starting in the outer boroughs on a schedule. In Manhattan, residents (or management agents) can request curbside pickup of compost from the NYC Department of Sanitation, who will provide bins to buildings. Otherwise, you can simply keep a bucket for your food scraps and empty it at the farmers market weekly. Stuyvesant Town is a shining example of a building complex where thousands of residents compost enthusiastically, according to GrowNYC, the city organization that runs the Greenmarkets as well as textile and food scrap collection programs. And if you have a yard, you can have your own compost pile – my mother has been doing it for decades!

Jerry (in navy) runs the compost collection at the 97th St Greenmarket. Ask him for a bucket!

What goes into a compost bucket? Compost is the perfect place for all your carrot ends, lettuce cores and stale bread as well as the lemons that have petrified in the crisper and that dry pasta from the back of your cupboard that you forgot you bought 5 years ago. I don’t feel so wasteful if I know my old or rotting food is going to be turned into “black gold”. You can also compost cut flowers or house plants (as long as they aren’t diseased or infested with bugs) including soil, and any dried beans, grains, cereal, bread or seeds that are too old to cook, wooden toothpicks, skewers, matches or chopsticks, corks, leaves, grass clippings, coffee grounds and paper filters, egg and nut shells and teabags, even dairy products. You can also add any food-soiled paper that is uncoated like paper napkins, paper towels, paper bags and uncoated paper packing material. Please no litter, no fat, no charcoal, and no coconut.

Food and garden scraps in a compost bin that would have otherwise ended up moldering at the dump!
Countertop pails with charcoal filters are easy to find. This one was at Home Goods.

There are a few tricks that make it go smoother. A piece of brown paper (like a paper bag or a shredded sheet of newspaper in the bottom of your bucket will help prevent the food scraps from sticking when you empty it each week. Big plastic buckets are readily found from bakeries, supermarkets and in dumpsters (as all potters know who need glaze containers) and are easily washed out. Jerry, the helpful man who oversees the compost drop off at our Friday Greenmarket on 97th Street, often has empty buckets on hand that he offers to composters who are still bringing food scraps in plastic bags. I wash out my buckets with dish soap and let them dry before starting to fill them again, just to make sure they don’t smell. You can use a countertop collector (one more use for ceramic jars or urns) to collect scraps before dumping into a larger covered container, if it makes the job easier. Usually I just put everything directly into the buckets I keep near the sink.

People bring food scraps to compost in all kinds of containers.
Full bins waiting to be picked up on Columbus Avenue.

Composting is a great way to reduce the amount of trash we produce. (Of course, not buying what we don’t need and using up what we do buy is the best way to cut down on trash). It only takes a little effort put scraps into a compost bucket instead of the garbage can and then to put your bucket in a shopping cart and take it along when you go to your farmers’ market. You’ll be amazed at the reduced amount of trash you will have each week. With composting and recycling, we are down to about 1 bag. Compost happens easily but we have to make the effort!

Don’t Hold Your Nose! Cabbage Can Be Your Go To For An Early Spring Salad

Purple Cabbage Salad with Umeboshi Dressing
Wood Fired Bowl by Perry Haas

Cabbage may not be the first thing you think of when planning a meal but it is your friend when it comes to making a winter salad. Especially at this time of year, when you are tired of shredded beets or carrots or kale but you still want some crunch, reach for cabbage instead. Cabbages last remarkably well in cold storage through the winter, providing vitamins C and K and a good amount of fiber when other green (or purple vegetables) are wilted and well past use.

Cabbage is delicious sautéed and fermented but can also make a remarkably fresh salad in these early spring months. Cole Slaw is a typical use but shredded cabbage with a vinaigrette is preferable, in my opinion, since it eliminates the use of mayonnaise. There are wonderful recipes for Indian and Thai cabbage salads with coconut and spices but my perennial favorite is made with orange juice and umeboshi paste, mashed pickled plums found at markets that carry Japanese products.

This salad is the decendant of a recipe I learned in one of the first cooking classes I ever took. It was created by Minx Boren, who taught at the Natural Gourmet Cookery School in it’s early years and is now a life coach in Palm Beach. Natural Gourmet is a cooking school with a chef-training program focused on healthy eating. It is where I learned basic knife skills, a focus on nutritional balance and how to prepare global specialties from tamales to nori rolls to dosas. When learning to cook, I thought umeboshi paste and avocado oil were such exotic ingredients and, at that time, you really did have to search them out. Now even Costco sells avocado oil and Whole Foods and Fairway carry Umeboshi plums. If you really don’t like cabbage or don’t want to use it for some reason, this salad would also be good made with kale (massage it first) or shaved brussel sprouts, fennel or even blanched broccoli, carrots and cauliflower.

I have adjusted the original recipe only slightly in proportions, deleted and added a few ingredients. You can adjust it to suit your tastes. If you don’t want to add parley or cilantro, don’t. If you prefer cucumbers or red peppers to carrots, please use them. If you want to add some toasted sesame seeds instead of pumpkin, go ahead. Combining some purple cabbage with the green, or going all purple, will make the salad even more appealing. One of the beauties of this salad is that it tastes even better the second day, after the flavors have melded in the refrigerator, and it holds up well in a lunch box. If you find your cabbage tasting too strong or a little sharp or wilted after a winter in the fridge, just soak the shredded cabbage in cold water (before dressing) and it will sweeten and plump up.

Green Cabbage Salad with shredded carrots and toasted pumpkin seeds
Whiskey cups by Perry Haas

CABBAGE SALAD with UMEBOSHI DRESSING

Toss together in a large bowl:

  • 1 head cabbage, shredded
  • 2 carrots, shredded
  • 1 cup parsley or cilantro, chopped
  • 1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds (add when serving)

     Optional alternatives or add-ins: red or green pepper pieces, sliced red radish, orange segments (cara cara or blood oranges look great), chopped apple, chopped cucumber, toasted sesame seeds, walnuts, thinly sliced celery 

Dressing:

  • 1 TBs minced red onion
  • 2 TBs umeboshi plum paste
  • 2 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 2 TBs avocado oil
  • 1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

Toss vegetables with dressing and let marinate in the refrigerator at least 2 hours or overnight. Top with seeds before serving.

Purple Cabbage with Cara Cara orange segments, parsley and walnuts

NCECA – It Is Much More Than a Conference; It Is a Community

Porcelain pots by Marlene Jack
at a 2015 NCECA exhibition

The annual conference of the National Council on Education in the Ceramic Arts (NCECA) is one of the best places to see and buy handmade pottery and connect with other clay people anywhere in this country. The location moves every year from East Coast to Midwest to West Coast and back again. The multi-day conference is sponsored by local colleges and universities with ceramics programs and by local suppliers.

Waiting for a slide presentation to start in one of the lecture halls in 2015

Pittsburgh is hosting the 2018 NCECA conference, “Cross Currents: Clay and Culture”, March 14-17. It includes lectures, panel discussions, networking sessions, demonstrations, technical forums and films as well as receptions, a sale of member donated cups, a K-12th grade ceramic exhibition, innovative performances (we’ve heard fabulous musicians ranging from the Sun Ra Arkestra to the contemporary string quartet ETHEL in past years) and lots of award ceremonies.

The non-profit area for networking and gathering information on schools, workshops, residencies and other educational opportunities

NCECA is a membership organization that promotes the sharing of ideas and information and promotes community building alongside professional and academic networking. Imagine thousands of flannel shirted, blue jeaned potters (with some stylish dressers along, too, of course) sprawled across the lobbies of the biggest hotels in Cincinnati, Columbus, Kansas City, Philadelphia, Boston and Las Vegas (that may have been the funniest contrast) and crammed into hotel bars and surrounding restaurants. It is often a clash of cultures in settings that are usually corporate and that makes it easy to spot comrades in clay and feel connected.

Pots for sale just out of Chris Gustin’s wood kiln
at a concurrent exhibit during the Providence NCECA

For me, the best parts of every NCECA conference are the exhibitions (of which there are many at the convention center, museums, galleries, campus buildings, coffee shops and public spaces), the sales of pots (ditto) and the chance to visit with potters and people involved with clay from across the country and around the world that I don’t get to see very often. It is a remarkable community and one I have been grateful to have been part of since my student days. It is a chance to see a US city while hanging out with 5,000+ potters, sculptors, teachers and other people involved with ceramics and learning more about the current state of clay.

Pots for sale inside and outside the Artstream Nomadic Gallery

This year will be no exception – there are dozens of wonderful sounding shows and sales – unfortunately, I am not going this time. Friends who will be there promise to take lots of notes and photos and maybe even bring back a pot or two. Some of my favorite pots were purchased at NCECA Conferences from the Artstream Nomadic Gallery (a repurposed Airstream trailer that travels the country selling pots), from a collective of potters called Objective Clay who exhibit together and from the La Mesa Tabletop show sponsored by Santa Fe Clay (and including place settings by dozens of potters). I hope if you get to the Pittsburgh meeting this year, you will report back on what you learn, see and purchase for the rest of us to share. And I hope to see you at next year’s NCECA conference in Minneapolis!

Shopping for pots at a recent conference

Healthier Cheesecake – No, That Is Not Necessarily An Oxymoron

Healthier cheesecake with berries and jam
Porcelain plate by Ryan J. Greenheck

We have a minor dessert dilemma in our home. My husband loves cheesecake. Always has. Especially the tall Italian style you used to find on the lower east side of Manhattan or on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx. But he has become a healthier and more abstemious eater and now eschews most sugar and saturated fat so cheesecake no longer fills the bill. Last spring, when his birthday was approaching, I decided it was time to reckon with these conflicting desires. It took me many tries and although it’s far from perfect, I came up with what is essentially a baked ricotta pudding topped with berries, his favorite. It’s not the fabulous layered ice cream cake on a cookie crust I make for my son’s birthday but, believe me, it tastes better than it sounds.

Baked until golden, this can be served in slices or scooped into bowls as a pudding

Because I decided to forgo a crust, I felt a thick pudding (he loves chocolate pudding) might work if I could get the taste right. This recipe is the result – an amalgam of a custard pie and a cheesecake, and good for dessert or breakfast. I used a combination of Greek yogurt and ricotta cheese with maple syrup replacing sugar. The more eggs you use, the thicker, stiffer and richer the “cheesecake” will be. You could use gelatin or agar to firm up the texture instead of eggs but it would be more like pannacotta. Portion it out, bake and serve the pudding in ramekins or short glass jars, in keeping with the current layered breakfast/dessert in a jar trend, or use a single, larger cake pan or soufflé dish and spoon it out family style. If you want to serve it like cheesecake, sprinkle some graham cracker, digestive biscuit or ginger cookie crumbs to cover the bottom of a greased springform pan,pour in the pudding and bake. It holds its shape when sliced if you treat it gently.

Cheesecake pudding with maple syrup and walnuts
Porcelain bowl by Ryan J. Greenheck

Top this baked “cheesecake” any way you like. Choose any topping from berries, with or without a fruit sauce or blop of jam, to maple syrup with toasted walnuts (delicious). Blend in some cocoa powder, melted chocolate and chocolate chips. Or use slices of cooked citrus, caramelized bananas, fresh kiwi slices or pitted, halved fresh or cooked cherries. It’s your dessert, your choice. I liked it plain but my husband preferred it with fruit spread and berries. It isn’t your usual cheesecake but it is pretty good.

Cheesecake “pudding” with maple syrup and walnuts
Porcelain bowl by Ryan J. Greenheck

HEALTHIER CHEESECAKE/CHEESECAKE PUDDING

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Mix just until smooth (I used a blender):

  • 2 cups plain thick Greek yogurt
  • 2 cups ricotta cheese (15oz container)
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1/4 cup maple syrup (less or more to taste)
  • zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

Pour into an 8 or 9″ cake pan or soufflé dish and bake one hour until firm and just starting to brown. Cool and serve at room temperature or refrigerate and serve chilled.

Top with berries, fruit compote, jam, caramelized bananas, more maple syrup and nuts, chocolate chips and a sprinkle of cocoa powder or whatever pleases you. Untopped, this will last up to 3 days refrigerated and serves 6.