A Good Dish

making food simpler

Why A Green Monster Might Just Become Your New Favorite Summer Breakfast

Green Monster smoothie
Earthenware mug by Michael Connelly

When summer days are hot, as they are now most of the summer, we switch our breakfasts from hearty to the light. Who wants to turn on the stove when it is hot? Not me, for sure. As soon as temperatures hit 80 degrees, steaming bowls of oatmeal with fruit and nuts and leftover rice with poached eggs give way to yogurt with berries, avocado toast and plant milk-based smoothies. 

Leahi Health menu

When we had the chance to spend several weeks on Oahu a few years back, one of our best food finds was a local healthy juice bar chain, Leahi Health, that made a terrific smoothie. My favorite was called a Green Monster and my husband loved the Coffee Monster, the same as mine plus a shot of cold brew. They didn’t give recipes but they did list ingredients, from which I estimated amounts. The only new item to me was powdered maca root, a brassica or cruciferous vegetable, which looks a little like a parsnip and is said to help balance hormones (yet to be confirmed). I try to use a frozen banana and chilled plant milk just to keep it all cold, something I crave all summer long, but ice will also do the trick. 

Maca root powder
Moringa is one add-in possibility

Our basic smoothies are simple, based on the Hawaiian green monster. Half a frozen banana, seeds (hemp, chia, ground flax for omega 3’s), a big handful or two of leafy greens (often bagged or else kale or moringa powder if I don’t have fresh), a couple of pitted dates and either almond, soy or oat milk get frothed together in the blender. Sometimes I add nuts or nut butter for protein and/or a quarter of a whole organic lemon (seeded). I might swap out the nut butter and add berries, frozen peaches, pineapple, açaí, mango or kiwi depending on what I have on hand. If I don’t have any frozen fruit, I might use cold brew coffee, cocoa powder or a combination, along with a banana, seeds, greens and dates. On really hot days, I trade in coconut water for the milk, skip the nut butter and add plenty of grated ginger to the greens and fruit. You can lighten and chill the whole thing by adding a few ice cubes before blending. Every time I make this smoothie, I conjure up palm trees and ocean breezes. Not a bad feeling on a warm summer morning. 

Add greens, etc. and blend until smooth
Verso of Windsor Chair mug
by Michael Connelly

GREEN MONSTER SMOOTHIE 

Blend until smooth:

  • 1 small banana, preferably frozen
  • 2 medjool dates, pitted
  • 1/2 tsp maca root powder 
  • 1 TB ground flax seed
  • 2 generous handfuls washed greens
  • 2-4 TBs almond butter
  • 2 cups cold plant milk
  • 2 ice cubes

Optional add-ins:

  • Hemp seeds
  • Moringa powder
  • Quarter lemon, seeded
  • Chia seeds
  • Espresso or cold brew coffee or coffee nibs

Kittery estuary

Kittery estuary

Bring Deviled Eggs To A Potluck, Picnic Or Barbecue And You’ll Always Go Home With An Empty Plate

Deviled eggs on a
Squirrel plate by Chandra DeBuse

Have you ever noticed how much people love deviled eggs? It is one of the few offerings that always gets eaten up at a cocktail party or potluck supper. As you enter with a platter full, people will help themselves to the eggs and you will always have an empty plate to take home. Not only are they inexpensive but also easy to make and guaranteed to please everyone except vegans (try sesame noodles, lentil salad or bbq tempeh for them). You may have your own favorite method but I will share mine in case it is helpful. Free range local and organic eggs may be more expensive but, in the scheme of things, still reasonable and preferable for so many reasons, including your health and the health of the hens! You’ll make your job easier if you use very fresh eggs. Just put the eggs in a saucepan, add water to cover completely, bring water to a boil, turn off heat, cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Then run under cold water over the egg – they should peel easily.

Use pasture-raised eggs, if you can

Dry mustard with a splash of vinegar was always my preferred “deviling” method but there are many ingredient options, including hot sauce, salsa, smoked paprika, chipotle chili (either dry or in adobo sauce), Dijon mustard, Sriracha, nutritional yeast, green chilis, bacon, relish or wasabi. My husband has an aversion to mayonnaise so I opt for a combination of Dijon and yogurt but when I want to go all out, I add a little sour cream or avocado. You can use all avocado, hummus, olive oil or a combination that suits you. I still think mayo makes the most delicious eggs but since I am not the only one eating them, I compromise. 

Presentation is important with deviled eggs – you want them to look attractive. An easy solution is to pipe the yolk mixture into the whites using a regular plastic storage bag with the corner snipped off. Another is to use a small ice cream scoop. Then sprinkle with paprika, smoked paprika or chipotle chili powder or top with your choice of roasted red pepper, caviar, chives, bacon crumbles, smoked salmon, blue cheese or fresh dill or cilantro. You can put out small dishes of each and let people top their own – that way they can choose their own happy place. We are still not eating indoors with other people but hope to be gathering with small groups outside this summer. Deviled eggs are one recipe I definitely will be making to share.

Filling the whites is easy when
you pipe in prepared yolk mixture

DEVILED EGGS

1 dozen eggs, hard-boiled and peeled (plus a couple extra in case of rips)

Slice eggs in half the long way and put yolks in a bowl. 

Put empty whites in a covered container in the refrigerator until ready to fill.

Use a fork to mash yolks and then add and mash until smooth:

  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard plus 2 tsps dry mustard powder
  • 1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt (or mayo, sour cream, hummus, mashed avocado or a combination)
  • 1 tsp cider or white vinegar
  • 1 tsp pickle juice (sweet, dill or jalapeño)
  • 1 tsp olive oil 
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp black or white pepper
  • Optional 1/2 tsp smoked paprika or chipotle chili powder or dill or just sprinkle on top

Taste and adjust seasonings.

Put prepared yolk mixture in a plastic storage bag until chilled (store in fridge up to one day). When ready to serve, cut the corner of the bag and pipe into the dry egg white halves. (I often omit 2-4 egg white halves because they have ripped so the others will be very generously filled). Sprinkle with paprika or your choice of spice and serve. 

These can be left out up to two hours.

Floral plate by Chandra DeBuse
Photo courtesy of @teafor33

CHANDRA DEBUSE is a ceramic artist living in Kansas City who makes playful, patterned pottery using a mid-range porcelain. Her work often includes images from nature – flowers, insects and critters (like squirrels) – with quite a bit of whimsy. She sells her work through Kansas City Urban Potters, on her website and in various galleries.

Porcelain plate by Chandra DeBuse
Photo courtesy of the artist
Porcelain teapot by Chandra DeBuse
Photo courtesy of the artist

Easy To Make Date Purée Is My Go-to Sweetener Of Choice

Ready to use date purée
Porcelain dish by Andrew Martin

I love sweets but I try to avoid using any refined or isolated sweeteners like sugar and agave, even watching my intake of honey, maple syrup and molasses. I have battled weight all my life and not only do sugars contribute to weight gain but also to inflammation, diabetes, elevated blood pressure, fatty liver and, perhaps, cancer. For years, I used sugar substitutes until we learned that they also cause health problems from weight gain (ironic) to cancer. Of course, I use or eat sugar sweetened foods on occasion but, for the most part now, I use dates, either whole or puréed, to sweeten foods and drinks. 

Cooked dates, lemon and cooking water
ready to blend

Dates are full of natural sugar but that is balanced by their fiber content so the sugar is metabolized more slowly and doesn’t cause the same blood sugar and acid spikes that refined sugar causes. They contain nutrients, like potassium, and insoluble fiber, which can help with high cholesterol. Dates are used as sweeteners in many countries where they are grown such as Syria, Turkey, Eygpt, Iraq and Tunisia. Natural but still relatively caloric, you have to limit the amount you consume if you are concerned with such matters. Fortunately with dates, a little goes a long way. 

 

Medjool dates seem to be the sweetest but many less expensive varieties (Bahri, Dayri, Halawi, Deglet Noor, Zahadi) are sweet enough to use in baking, drinks and sauces. Dates are native to the Middle East but are also grown now in California, Arizona and several other warm states and available in several forms. Dates sugar is simply dried, ground dates so it doesn’t melt in liquid the way sugar does but seems to work pretty well as a replacement for sugar in unfussy baking recipes (like fruitcake or banana bread) which don’t need to be light and fluffy. Date syrup is made of cooked dates which have been strained so have lost most of their fiber content. I prefer to use either whole (pitted!) dates (to sweeten a smoothie, turmeric latte or chopped in salads for sweetness) or a date purée which I make myself with a seriously simple recipe (for topping cereal, oatmeal or yogurt, sweeten salad dressings and teriyaki sauce and in some baking). It keeps for a month to six weeks in the fridge so I try to always have some at the ready. Sweet and nutritious!

Date puree
Slipcast porcelain dish
by Andrew Martin

DATE PURÉE 

  • 15-20 PITTED Deglet Noor dates (less if you use medjool)
  • 1 1/4-1 1/2 cups water (adjust amount for thickness preference)
  • 1/4 small lemon, seeded
  • Add a pinch of cinnamon, cardamom or coriander if that is your jam.

Simmer in a small saucepan 15-20 minutes until dates are completely soft. 

Pour entire content into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth.

Store in a glass jar or container in the fridge up to one month. Makes about 1 cup. 

(After you put the purée in a jar, there will be some left in your blender. Add kefir or almond milk, berries and ground flax or nuts and the residual purée will sweeten your smoothie).

Refrigerated purée keeps 4-6 weeks

 

Springtime pine growth

Love Rye Bread? It Is Easier Than You Might Imagine To Make It Yourself

Homemade seeded rye bread
Large blue and white stoneware bowl
by Wendy Goldsmith

I love rye bread, especially for toast and sandwiches. It has a specific flavor quite different from the more common wheat breads that derives not just from the rye flour but mostly from the caraway seeds. It is somewhat sour, somewhat sweet and just mildly salty. It is also one of the easiest yeast breads to make since the texture is dense and not as persnickety as sourdough, challah or sandwich loaves.

Brushing the loaf with lightly beaten egg white
makes the crust darker and glossy

Because it is so simple, the quality of your flour is important so it isn’t stale, rancid or devoid of nutrients. Buy fresh rye and wheat flour from good sources (King Arthur, Arrowhead Mills and Bob’s Red Mill are widely available but you may have a local (or near local mill) you shop) and keep it in your freezer if you don’t use it up quickly. Here is a list of excellent millers. The original of this recipe by Jeanne Heyerly of Chenoa, IL (from a community cookbook called Simply In Season) only called for 1 cup of rye flour in the sponge (the first step in bread making which starts fermentation) and 3 cups of bread flour to be added. Bread flour has higher protein than all-purpose so it forms more gluten, resulting in a better rise and texture. I tried to use equal parts whole rye, whole wheat and white flour to have more rye and more whole grain and it was good but quite dense. If you want to add some whole grain, try one cup of whole wheat and see what you think. The tiny amount of sugar is optional but I think the flavor of rye profits from a bit of sweetness. Honey, maple or date syrup, apple juice concentrate or agave are all usable.

Either grinding your own or buying fresh, good quality
flour makes a big difference to taste and nutrition
The sponge is simply some flour, water,
caraway seeds and yeast mixed to start fermentation

Growing up, I used to go shopping with my mother at a grocery store that had an in-store bakery that made fresh rye bread. The bakery women used to give us (kids) a cookie with sprinkles or a candied cherry when we tagged along but the crusty end of the freshly sliced (in those amazing bread slicers I always feared would take off someone’s fingers) rye bread was my preference. I still choose bread over cookies and rye is one of my favorites, especially for avocado toast, smoked salmon, grilled cheese or a bbq tempeh Reuben. This recipe makes one big loaf or two smaller loaves, one of which you can freeze for up to a few months.

Because it is moist and dense,
this rye bread slices easily

I asked a bread-baking phobic friend to try this recipe and she had encouraging results. She used one cup rye and 2 cups whole wheat in her trial and she found she had to add a little more water in order to knead the dough, which was too dry. Her bread was dense but she likes it that way. I am so happy she is optimistic about continuing to bake bread. Whether you use all white bread flour or some combination of flours, I wish you the same results.

Smoked salmon and smashed avocado
are both delicious on rye bread or toast
Platter by Wendy Goldsmith
This bread makes great toast!
Platter by Wendy Goldsmith

SEEDED RYE BREAD

Sponge:

Mix in a large bowl and let stand 3-5 minutes to proof:

  • 1 cup/250 ml warm water
  • 1 TBs active dry yeast

Add and stir in:

  • 1 cup/250 grams rye flour
  • 1/4 cup/ 60 grams bread flour
  • 1 generous TBs caraway seeds
Cover with a tight lid or plastic wrap and let stand 2 hours (or overnight (in fridge if it is warm out) for “the sponge” to develop more flavor).

Next day, stir down the yeast sponge and add:

  • 3 cups/750 grams bread flour (or a mix of whole wheat bread and all purpose)
  • 2 1/2 tsps salt
  • 1-2 tsps sugar (optional)
 Knead about 5 minutes (if too dry, wet your hands to add a bit more water until kneadable) and then place in a greased bowl, turning to grease all over.

Cover with a damp cloth and let rise until doubled, about one hour.

Punch down and shape into one large loaf (tucking sides under to tighten the ball) or 2 small loaves, letting rise until doubled again.

Brush loaf with a lightly beaten egg white before baking and again 10 minutes before end of baking to promote a shiny crust. You can add more caraway seeds to the top if you like.

You can bake on a rimmed cookie or baking sheet or in a Dutch oven.

Bake in preheated oven (375F) for 35-45 minutes, depending on loaf size. Check for doneness by tapping on the bottom (it should sound hollow) or check temperature for 190F.

Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing.

Note – When I bake bread, I usually measure in grams because it is more precise and baking is an exercise in precision. This recipe is so foolproof, however, that such extreme precision doesn’t seem necessary so I use cup measurements here for ease and because not everyone has a gram scale. I have included both measurements so use whichever you prefer.

Floral honeycomb platter
by Wendy Goldsmith
Wendy Goldsmith’s wonderful ceramics can be purchased on Ohanga.com and this summer at sales and festivals including The Art Drive
The beautifully finished underside of
Wendy Goldsmith’s beehive platter

An Un-Hollandaise Sauce For Dipping Spring Vegetables Like Artichokes And Asparagus

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Carved porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

Now that fresh artichokes are available in grocery stores, you want to make something delicious in which to dip their leaves. A steamed artichoke, a vegetable rich in folate, is a treat with melted butter but is elevated to another state with a scrumptious dip. Hollandaise sauce, a traditional accompaniment to both artichokes and asparagus, has always been too rich for me. Plus, unless I’ve met the chicken whose eggs I’m eating, anything with raw egg in it makes me skittish. 

Growing up, we dipped our artichokes in a homemade mustardy vinaigrette with chopped, hard-boiled eggs.  My mother clipped the recipe from a monthly newsletter 40 or so years ago and still pulls it out every spring to sauce artichokes. When I went to copy down the recipe decades ago, it was already worn and speckled with drops of oil and now my own copy looks much the same. The original recipe in the newsletter came from Paul Steindler, a Czech chef who ran La Popotte restaurant in New York.

For years I made Mom’s recipe just as she had prepared it, but then it occurred to me that a few changes might lighten it up a bit. I swapped in apple cider vinegar for white distilled, replaced the white sugar with date purée and went back to the Dijon mustard that was in the original (not the bright yellow “French’s” hot dog mustard she used in those days). The newsletter recipe called for half a cup of olive oil but that made the vinaigrette too rich for my taste and tolerance. I cut the oil to 2 tablespoons and instead of adding a chopped egg at the end, I added 2 hard boiled eggs and blended them completely to thicken it all into an unctuous and tangy dip, much lighter than the original. For a vegan version, you could try substituting aquafaba or flax slurry for the eggs. If you want it more yellow, add some turmeric. 

After cutting the pointy end with a knife,
trim sharp tips easily with a scissors

We still celebrate spring with artichokes and asparagus dipped in this delicious mustardy vinaigrette only now I feel good about making it. This combination of a vegetable with a protein makes it a meal, especially if you don’t want a heavy supper. If there is any sauce left over, it makes a pretty good dip for carrots or cold leftover asparagus or to enliven plain cooked fish or chicken. You can prepare this vinaigrette ahead, as it will keep in the refrigerator a day or so, and just re-blend it while the artichokes or asparagus are steaming. 

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

UN-HOLLANDAISE OR HOLLANDAISE-ISH SAUCE

Process until smooth in a blender:

  • 3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 Tb apple cider, white or white wine vinegar 
  • 2 Tbs Dijon mustard 
  • 1 tsp date purée or syrup (or maple syrup, honey, agave, sugar)
  • 1/2 tsp Worcester sauce 
  • 1-2 Tbs olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • Pinch turmeric-optional 

Add and blend until smooth and thickened:

  • 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Great as a dip for artichokes (pour right into the center of a cooked and cleaned artichoke or in a small bowl for dipping) or drizzled over steamed asparagus. Store any leftover in the refrigerator for one day. Fills 4 large artichokes.

I originally posted this recipe in the first year of A Good Dish. This is an updated version with new photos to reach all new readers who have subscribed in the last five years and to remind others to make it. Thanks for reading along.

Porcelain butter dish
by Janel Jacobson

Janel Jacobson makes carved and fluted functional porcelain and stoneware pots, paying attention to form, surface and function. Once a student of Marguerite Wildenhain in California, she makes pots and carved wood sculpture in the Sunrise, Minnesota studio she shares with her husband, potter Will Swanson. Jacobson and Swanson will be one stop on the Mother’s Day weekend St Croix Pottery Tour I have longed to attend for many years. Fortunately , there will be an online sale in conjunction with the studio tour this year. Hope to get there in person next year! 

So many buds on this yellow magnolia!