A Good Dish

making food simpler

Now That It Is Spring, Fresh Asparagus Is Available Again!

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Steamed asparagus
Slipped stoneware plate
by Mary Barringer

Crocus, daffodils and forsythia may be delightful hints of re-awakening but to me the true harbinger of spring is asparagus. The skinny green stalks from Mexico start appearing in grocery stores in March, usually coinciding with Easter and Passover. At the beginning of April, bunches start to arrive from Florida and Texas. By the beginning of May, we can find local asparagus in our farmers’ markets, the first bunches coming from New Jersey and Pennsylvania. In a good year, the season lasts through June.

Fresh asparagus at the farmers’ market

One of the surprises and benefits of moving to a new house as a child was discovering an established (sadly long overgrown now) asparagus patch in the backyard. Having eaten asparagus but never having seen it growing, my sisters and I were amazed at how the spears poked straight up from the ground like some science fiction garden. Our mother taught us how to snap the stalks low to the ground and remove the scale-like leaves with a paring knife rather than peeling, the method I have learned most cooks use. (Cleaning takes time but is also one of those repetitive tasks that can be meditative). The only way we ever ate them was steamed and that remains my go-to method. So simple, the only danger is in overcooking.

A few years ago, my husband and I spent a week in southern Utah and I tried roasted asparagus for the first time there, of all unexpected places. It is a completely different dish than the more common steamed since the oven heat starts to caramelize the spears. Both methods are extremely easy, as are sautéing and stir-frying. Fortunately, besides being delicious, asparagus is high in fiber, folic acid and potassium and low in calories. It makes a good breakfast by itself or with a poached egg on buttered toast. Whichever way I cook asparagus, I always try to make an extra bunch to have leftovers for salads, quiches, frittatas or just plain right out of the fridge.

Roasted asparagus
Stoneware plate by Mary Barringer

ROASTED ASPARAGUS

  • 1 bunch fresh green asparagus, snapped and cleaned
  • 1 TB olive oil
  • 1 tsp sesame seeds (optional)
  • 1 big pinch each salt and black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Spread cleaned asparagus in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan (use a piece of parchment to make clean-up easy).

Sprinkle with oil and roll spears around to coat.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds, salt and pepper.

Bake 9-12 minutes, depending on thickness. Start testing at 9 minutes, if thin.

Verso of stoneware plates
by Mary Barringer

Turmeric Latte Surprised Me When I Finally Tried It – I Liked It!

Generously large and beautifully painted mugs for a turmeric latte
by Natalie Reed-Goehl/Muddy Paws Pottery

I came late to the turmeric latte or golden milk trend. I’d read about and ripped out recipes for a few years without ever making one. This winter, in a week when all our coffee beans tasted bad to me, I decided it was time to try something different. There in my pile of untested recipes sat three for turmeric latte and I knew it was time. Now it has become an almost daily hot drink.

A flavorful caffeine alternative

Turmeric/Curcumin is one of those recent fad health discoveries but has been used for centuries in Asian cultures. It is purported to cure everything from indigestion to arthritis and other inflammation with some debated results. I am more interested in the culinary applications, both flavor and color, but am happy it has some health benefits. Tejal Rao, the LA-based food writer, makes a version with black tea (which adds a layer of flavor and jolt of caffeine) and discusses its origins as an Indian home remedy. We appropriate all kinds of recipes from India and this tarted up cup (the basic medicinal version is known as Haldi doodh) is another in a long line. Pretty sure this is a cool weather drink because all the spices in it might be too warming on hot days but maybe, like spicy food, it could cool you. Perhaps it would make a good shake or smoothie. I guess that remains to be tested this summer.

Dry spices measured out and ready to mix and bottle

The list of ingredients in the latte varies from recipe to recipe. Some are very basic, using just turmeric, cinnamon or ginger and honey or sugar while others have long ingredient lists including many spices. I took the middle road, using several spices and sweetened it with whole dates. (You can use fresh turmeric (and ginger) roots but if you are like me, your hands will be yellow-orange for a week from grating it). So as to avoid measuring out all the ingredients every time, I mix a big batch and keep it in a glass jar at the ready. The best dried turmeric (and other Indian spices) I have found is from Diaspora Co. – fresh, flavorful and fairly sourced. You can use any sweetener you like (the most common are honey and maple syrup but I use dates or stevia) and your milk of choice (cow, soy, nut, oat and coconut all work) and can be diluted with water). A jar of turmeric latte mix would make a nice house present (when we start visiting again) or a gift for a home bound friend. Oh, wait – that would be almost everyone!

Different turmerics taste slightly different
Diaspora is a great supplier
Turmeric Latte
Large Mug by Natalie Reed-Goehl/Muddy Paws Pottery

TURMERIC LATTE MIX

Mix together:

  • 1/2 cup turmeric powder
  • 2 TBs cinnamon
  • 1 1/2 TBs ground ginger
  • 1 TB ground coriander
  • 1 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
  • 1 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg

Put in a glass jar with a tight lid. Label with ingredients and directions.

To use, add 1 rounded teaspoon to 1 1/4 cups milk or 1 cup milk plus 1/4 cup water. Add 1 pitted medjool date or 1 spoon of honey or whatever sweetener you prefer. Whir in a blender until smooth and frothy.

Other possible ingredients (all ground):

Jars of Turmeric Latte Mix with instructions

 

Spring springing

 

Pineapple Salsa Will Brighten Your Day In Any Season

Pineapple Salsa
Porcelain bowl by Silvie Granatelli

If your meals need a little brightening on a dreary late winter evening, make some pineapple salsa. The sunny, juicy flavors enliven fish or chicken but the salsa also tastes great on its own with a pile of chips or celery. Where do you usually use pineapple? A summer fruit salad or a piña colada? That is one reason it tastes so good in winter—it is a tropical fruit available year round. I am usually a pretty strict adherent to eating fruit and vegetables seasonally: Asparagus in spring, melons in summer, apples and pears in autumn. So where do tropical fruits fit into this scenario? If I were really strict, I would only eat mango, papaya, avocado and pineapple in the summer, since they are grown in hot weather. But this is where I bend the rules a bit, trying not to be so rigid. In a dark, cold, northern climate, some freshly made guacamole or pineapple salsa provide a lively counterbalance to a lot of white winter foods like  potatoes, cauliflower and cabbage.

Pineapple salsa and chips
Porcelain bowl by Silvie Granatelli

Pineapple salsa is easy to make. It just takes some mincing and dicing. I like it with cumin and coriander but it is also delicious with a little Tajin (Mexican chili/lime seasoning) or, as Sam Sifton recommended in The Times, some straight-up chili powder. I’ve seen recipes with fresh garlic, chopped fresh tomatoes and sweet peppers but I like it just with the mild bite of red onion and jalapeño balanced with lime, cilantro and spices. Try subbing in watermelon, persimmon, mango or star fruit for the pineapple, if you feel adventurous. The whole recipe takes about 15 minutes to make and can last 3 or 4 days in the fridge but I guarantee it won’t be around that long.

Pineapple salsa
Porcelain bowl by Silvie Granatelli

PINEAPPLE SALSA

  • 2 cups finely diced fresh pineapple, peeled and cored
  • 1/2 cup minced red onion
  • 1 minced fresh jalapeño, about 1/4 cup
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • Zest and juice of 1/2 fresh lime, about 1 tsp zest and 1 TBs juice
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1/4 tsp ground coriander
  • Optional – 1/2-1 tsp chili powder

Mix together and chill if not using immediately.

When You Can’t Find Your Favorite Black Beans And Rice Near You, Make Them Yourself

Black Beans and Rice
Square Earthenware Bowl by Joe Pintz

Black beans and rice were one of our most reliable dining out options when our son was young. He loved eating rice and beans and we were happy to eat something I didn’t cook. Our two favorite spots were Café Con Leche, a block away from us, and La Rosita de Broadway, a short walk and a good locale to meet friends. They were casual, neighborhood hang outs (Café Con Leche sponsored Little League teams for years) and liked messy kids and cocktail sipping adults equally, the kind of restaurant we could use more of in our communities. Sadly both those places are long closed. This winter, when we got a yearning for rice and beans, I learned to make them myself. 

The sofrito for this recipe is
garlic, green pepper and onion

Almost every recipe for black beans and rice I consulted had similar ingredients with a few variants. Beans, onions, garlic, bay leaves, peppers and oregano appeared in all of them. Some used red peppers instead of green, some added cayenne or chili powder and some included tomatoes, cumin, cinnamon or orange juice. One even used rum. I tried the ingredients that sounded good to me and then adjusted the spices to try to recapture the flavor in my memory. I don’t remember the beans being spicy but I put out cayenne and hot sauce to suit my family’s preferences. Some recipes call for ham hocks or bacon but I think a little smoked paprika does the same job without the extra fat and salt. If you want more vegetables, add some cut up carrots in the last 10 minutes of cooking or parsley, spinach or arugula just a couple of minutes before you serve the beans. 

Beans soak up all the flavor of the broth as it cooks down
Burrito made with these black beans and brown rice
Oblong bowl by Joe Pintz
Cooking beans from scratch is easy and economical

I almost always start with dry beans (unless I am in a hurry) because I like the texture better. They just take soaking and simmering, nothing complicated. But canned beans work fine, too. And if you use a rice cooker, you don’t even have to think about your rice cooking while you pay attention to seasoning the beans. My dishwashing husband thanks the day we got our rice cooker and I stopped burning rice into the bottom of our pots! I like either brown (very non-traditional) or white basmati rice for this dish. Rosita (Cuban) and Café Con Leche (Dominican) served a choice of white or yellow rice. I make it both ways, depending on my mood. If you are willing to veer non-traditionally, a little dried celery and mushrooms are really tasty additions to the rice. For white, I add garlic and oil. For yellow, I add some turmeric or saffron to color the rice, not so much for flavor as for the nostalgia. Rosita’s and the Café may be gone but when I cook this recipe, I conjure up the savory flavor of those beans and rice and the good times we had eating there.

Black Beans and Yellow Rice
Earthenware bowl by Joe Pintz

BLACK BEANS AND RICE

  • 1 lb dry black beans, soaked, cooked with bay leaves and drained or four 15oz cans of black beans, rinsed and drained
  • 2 TB olive oil
  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 4-6 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 pepper (poblano, jalapeño or green bell), diced finely
  • 1 TB ground cumin
  • 1 TB dried oregano
  • 1 TB kosher salt (or a little less or more to your preference)
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika, optional
  • 1 quart broth (chicken, vegetable, bean cooking liquid or some combination)
  • 1 TB cider vinegar
  • 2 carrots, cut in bite sized pieces (optional)
  • Chopped cilantro to top/garnish

2 cup (dry) basmati rice, rinsed, drained and cooked with broth, smashed garlic, a little oil and salt, according to directions. For white rice, I use 1 1/2 cups liquid for 1 cup dry rice. For brown, 2 cups liquid for 1 cup dry rice. 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1/4 tsp paprika or 1 pinch saffron, optional, to make rice yellow. 

Heat the oil on medium heat in a large skillet or medium stockpot. Add onion and sauté 2-3 minutes, until translucent but not browning. Add green pepper and garlic and sauté 1-2 minutes longer to soften. 

Add cumin, oregano, salt and black pepper, cook about 30 seconds and then add broth. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. 

Add the cooked beans and vinegar and continue to simmer about 20 minutes, until beans are flavorful and the broth has reduced and thickened. Adjust seasonings to taste.

If you want more vegetables, add chopped carrots about 10 minutes before beans are finished or add thin green, like arugula or spinach, in the last minute or two of cooking. 

Serve with prepared rice, lime wedges, chopped cilantro and hot sauce. 

Oblong earthenware bowl
by Joe Pintz

Joe Pintz makes earthenware pots with rich surfaces that remind me of colorfield painting. The forms are simple, elegant, extremely useful and pleasurable to use, the ultimate compliment for pottery, to my mind.

Verso of oblong earthenware bowl
by Joe Pintz

Make A Fresh Caprese Salad With Citrus For A Special Mid-Winter Treat

Winter Caprese salad with mint
Wood fired side tray by Liz Lurie

Do you love a caprese salad—ripe tomatoes, mozzarella and basil in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette? Do you ever crave it when tomatoes are not in season? I do but can’t bring myself to buy expensive hothouse tomatoes in the middle of February. I have a solution that doesn’t include pulpy winter tomatoes and might be the perfect Valentine’s treat.

Navel orange, ruby grapefruit and Sumo orange
all work to make a winter Caprese salad

I have seen tomato, mozzarella and basil salads dressed up with slices of orange in magazine spreads but I think the oranges (or grapefruit) can completely replace the tomatoes. Substitute fresh mint for the basil alongside the fresh mozzarella and you will have a surprisingly delicious mid-winter dish. A little drizzle of a good balsamic vinegar and olive oil brings it all alive. You could even punctuate it with some briny or salty olives, grated fresh ginger, nuts or arugula mixed in or on the side. Somehow the fresh mint complements the citrus similarly to the way basil pairs with tomato. You can cut the oranges into slices, segments (also known as supremes) or chunks. If you cut the mozzarella in a similar way, you’ll get both in each bite. This salad might become a new breakfast favorite.

Cut your mozzarella to a size and shape to match your citrus

Citrus fruits are at their best right now—fresh, juicy and inexpensive. Navel, Sumo or Cara Cara oranges, pomelos, mandarins, tangelos and grapefruit all work. Greenhouse mint is available year round and lasts a long time in the fridge. Fresh mozzarella is sold even in chain grocery stores. With all the components easily accessible, why not try? Pull out a favorite plate or platter and compose a winter caprese which will satisfy your eye and your stomach without much effort.

Caprese with oranges and grapefruit
Wood fired nub bowls by Liz Lurie

WINTER CAPRESE

  • 3 oranges or 2 grapefruit, peeled removing pith, seeded and sliced
  • 1 ball or log of fresh mozzarella, sliced
  • Handful of fresh mint leaves
  • Balsamic vinegar
  • Olive Oil
  • Black pepper

Optional-black olives, grated ginger, pine nuts, almonds or walnuts, bed of arugula)

Slice citrus and layer each slice with a thin layer of cheese.

Drizzle with balsamic and oil and sprinkle with pepper.

Place a mint leaf on each slice and strew a few extras on the plate.

Leftovers will taste good the next day but you may need to add fresh mint.

Undersides of Liz Lurie’s wood fired nub bowls
Flashing slip over dark clay body