A Good Dish

making food simpler

Connie’s Macaroni Salad – A Long Time Savory And Filling Summer Favorite

 

Connie’s Macaroni Salad
Earthenware plate by Sean O’Connell

One of my favorite summer foods for a summer barbecue or picnic is a recipe for macaroni salad I learned as a teenager from a cousin’s mother-in-law. Long story. I have seven first cousins on my mother’s side. Even though we lived in different parts of the country, our families got together at least once a year and sometimes more, depending on vacation schedules and what occasion needed to be celebrated. My gentle, thoughtful cousin Mindy was the first to have a wedding and she married a wonderful guy who is a classical guitarist and one of the most generous people I know. When we gather, for example, Rob is often the first to pick up the bar tab. After a discussion of books we’ve read, he often gifts copies of titles he thinks our son will enjoy. When he found out I had arthritis in my hands, he sent me a special knife to make chopping easier. 

Rummo is our current favorite
 commercial pasta

Before Mindy and Rob married, his mother, Connie, moved for work from Cleveland to Hartford, where I lived growing up. She came to our house for social events, never talking down to us, even though we were kids, and often bringing something tasty to eat. The recipe of hers I remember best (and the only one I thought to request—probably one of the first times I ever asked someone for a recipe) is a delicious macaroni salad. I suppose macaroni salad, with it’s mayo base, is the Americanized version of what we know as pasta salad, which usually has a vinaigrette or pesto-based dressing. 

Peas plus fresh herbs add extra greens

Besides macaroni—use shells, rigatoni, penne, gobetti (large elbows), spirals or even orecchiette, any short pasta, even whole grain or gluten free, that will hold sauce—the recipe lists hard boiled eggs, red onion, dry dill and dry mustard and mayo. I added fresh dill, peas and parsley for more green. When I served it the second day, I added in chopped cooked kale and some extra mayo and salt. Connie’s version was made with bacon (I omit it sometimes when we don’t want to use meat) which adds another flavor dimension. I used the Hellman’s mayonnaise the recipe called for, but your favorite brand mayo will work or try a mixture of yogurt and mustard. I think chopped olives, peppers, hot sauce, beans or even cooked chicken or sausage could be appropriate add-ins. This is a great filling dish if you have to feed a crowd–it can easily be doubled. If  you want to bring it to an outdoor summer picnic, however, please use vegan mayo so you don’t run the risk of spoilage. The recipe was Connie’s gift to me and now I pass it on to you to enjoy.

Dilled Macaroni Salad with Peas
Earthenware plate by Sean O’Connell

CONNIE”S MACARONI SALAD

Mix together in a large bowl:

  • 1 lb cooked large macaroni shells, drained and room temperature
  • 4 hard cooked eggs, shelled and sliced or chopped
  • 4 strips crisp bacon, crumbled (optional-or use 1/2 tsp smoked paprika or chipotle chili powder)
  • 1 small red onion, finely chopped (heaping 1/2 cup)
  • 4 stalks celery, chopped (about 1 generous cup)
  • 1-2 tsp dry mustard or 1-2 TBs prepared Dijon, or to taste
  • 2 TBs dry dill weed (plus 1-2 TBs fresh dill, if you have it)
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 cup cooked frozen peas
  • 1-2 tsps salt (taste and adjust before serving)
  • 1-2 tsps black pepper
  • Hellman’s mayonnaise, enough to wet (i used about 3/4 cup plus a little more before serving)

Make the day before you want to serve and store in the refrigerator. Serves 8 as a side dish and keeps 2-3 days in the fridge.

SEAN O”CONNELL

After years of reading about the Watershed Center Salad Days Fundraiser in Newcastle, ME,  I was able to attend for the first time this summer. Among other treasures, I found this plate by Sean O’Connell from the 2010 Salad Days and consider myself lucky! You can see the historical and contemporary inspirations in his work but his pieces are completely personalized twists on those stylistic  precedents. Not only does he make pots but also paintings and wooden utensils. You can read more about Sean’s work and find out about sales at seano’connellpottery.com

2010 Salad Days earthenware plate
by Sean O’Connell
Salad Days plate verso by Sean O’Connell

An Old Time Martha’s Vineyard Potato Salad Recipe With A Few Updates For Late Summer Picnics And BBQ’s

My take on Cozy’s potato salad
Bowl – Desert Sunset Gradient
by Justin Donofrio

Potato salad is one of the traditional picnic, barbecue, cookout dishes that goes so well with not only hamburgers and hot dogs but all kinds of grilled fish, sausage, chicken and meat. It is both inexpensive and filling and although tasty, balances the often spicy or zesty flavors of the marinades and sauces that accompany grilled foods. We didn’t eat a lot of potato salad growing up. We were more a cole slaw household. Occasionally my mother would bring home some deli or grocery store concoction (probably from Ron Chast’s “Coffee Shop Vats of the Jersey Turnpike” – a version of her hilarious cartoon is reproduced below) and I always enjoyed it but never really thought about making it myself. All kinds of cabbage and pasta salads sure but until recently, I never tried concocting a potato salad.

Both yellow and red boiling potatoes
work well in this recipe
Purple potatoes are an option

So why now? Well, because a friend who worked summers at Cozy’s, a long shuttered Martha’s Vineyard restaurant, recently shared her recollection of the potato salad she used to make there. She had made it so frequently that the ingredient list was seared in her memory. Amy didn’t remember exact amounts but she also said it had never been precisely measured. I gave it a try and the measurements here are my best guess. Truly I think this is a completely flexible and forgiving recipe. I used yellow potatoes just because I like them (second only to purple) but I think any boiling (not baking) potatoes would work. I enjoy hard-boiled eggs, pickle relish or chopped gherkins and sometimes dill in my potato salad, but you may have other add-in preferences. I’ve heard of people adding capers, bacon, ham, basil and chopped hot peppers. I also use more mustard and vinegar, a little hot sauce, and olive oil instead of mayo altogether, especially if it is going to sit out a while. And many of you will want more salt than I use. Cozy’s may have closed long ago but their delicious potato salad lives on! Thanks, Amy!

Olive oil potato salad
a la Cozy’s (RIP)

COZY’S POTATO SALAD

Amy’s instructions from memory:

  • Boil, peel and cube potatoes 
  • Grate a carrot
  • Dice an onion
  • Chop some celery
  • 1 capful of white vinegar
  • 1 tsp yellow mustard
  • Salt and pepper
  • Celery seed
  • Parsley
  • Mayonnaise

My version:

Combine in a large mixing bowl:

  • 2 lbs boiled potatoes, like Yukon Gold, cut in bite-sized cubes-4-5 cups
  • I medium to large carrot, grated-about 1 cup
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced (yellow, Vidalia or red)-about 1 cup
  • 3 stalks celery, diced or thinly sliced-about 1 cup
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • Whisk together in a smaller bowl:
  • 1-2 TBs white or cider vinegar
  • 1-2 TBs yellow or Dijon mustard
  • 1 tsp celery seed
  • 1 tsp salt 
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  •  2 TBs olive oil (or 1/4 cup mayo)

Pour dressing over vegetables and mix well. 

Refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 6-8 servings

Optional add-ins:

  • Chopped pickles or pickle relish
  • Chopped hard boiled eggs 
  • Capers
  • Scallions
  • White wine
  • Crumbled bacon
  • Finely diced radish
  • Fresh or dried dill, basil or toasted caraway seeds
  • Hot sauce or cayenne  
Desert Sunset Gradient Bowl Verso
by Justin Donofrio
Roz Chast’s New Yorker cartoon

 

Make Summer Last A Little Longer With This Easy Fresh Corn Salad

Corn salad
Stoneware Bowl by Wayne Smith

Fresh corn is at its best from late August through September, if we are lucky. I grew up near farms that grew corn in Connecticut and we ate a lot of it, mostly just boiled. My father was so picky about his corn—he only liked small, tender kernels and wouldn’t eat it if it wasn’t freshly picked. Because of that insistence, we often drove out to farm stands selling that day’s corn, shucked it in the backyard and put it right into boiling water. While I am not nearly so fussy, I do appreciate fresh farm stand or farmers market corn, although I am willing to eat many varieties and will store it in the fridge for a couple of days, if need be. I am not positive it makes a difference but have always felt that keeping corn cold kept the sugars from turning starchy so I refrigerate it until just before using.

Lots of fresh corn
in markets right now

Sometimes we get corn in our CSA share. Otherwise I buy it at a farmers market or a roadside stand. Right now fantastically sweet corn can be had all over the Northeast. I am a sucker for the baker’s dozen deal where you get thirteen cobs for the price of twelve. What am I going to do with so much corn for just two people, you may wonder? Well, I boil or steam them all, serve two (or 4, depending on our voracity) and refrigerate the rest. This gives me the fixings for corn soup, a cold cob of corn for breakfast, corn in salsa, succotash or, perhaps easiest and tastiest of all, fresh corn salad.

Simple fresh ingredients
make a delicious salad

Making corn salad is as simple as cutting the kernels off the cob (use those cobs to make stock for corn soup), dicing some fresh red or green bell peppers and red or Vidalia onion, adding some fresh herbs and tossing it all with a tangy cider vinaigrette. Add peppery baby arugula, sliced cherry tomatoes, cooked cranberry or black beans or minced chili peppers as you please. This is perfect picnic or potluck food as it can sit out for a couple of hours if you bring it chilled and it stores well for a few days refrigerated. Fresh corn salad makes a terrific summer meal alongside a tomato or peach caprese salad. Buy that dozen so you have enough to share with friends and save everyone the heat of cooking for an evening.

Corn Salad in a stoneware bowl
by Wayne Smith

FRESH CORN SALAD 

  • Kernels from 6-8 cobs fresh corn, cooked
  • I red onion, diced finely
  • 1-2 red bell peppers, diced finely
  • 1-2 jalapeño peppers, diced
  • A big handful of fresh basil leaves, sliced in thin strips
  • Vinaigrette:
  • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • Big pinch salt and black pepper(Optional pinch cumin, thyme, chili powder-taste before adding to see if you think it needs more flavor)

Toss prepared vegetables with vinaigrette and refrigerate a few hours or overnight. Serve chilled or at room temperature. If freezing, don’t add basil until serving. 

Rimmed bowl by Wayne Smith
Photo courtesy of the artist
Platter by Wayne Smith
Photo courtesy of the artist
Jardiniere by Wayne Smith
Photo courtesy of the artist

Udon With Vegetables Might Be Your New Go To Comfort Recipe

 

Udon with Broccoli, Mushrooms and Garlic
Stoneware Serving Dish by Nick Joerling

There are so many different kinds of Japanese noodles and so many ways to prepare them. Ramen, a thin wheat noodle, is most commonly eaten in soup. Soba noodles, at least part and sometimes all buckwheat flour, are perhaps the most versatile, used for dipping in sauces, in soup, chilled and dressed with a sesame sauce, pan fried or as a side for tempura. Somen, a very thin white wheat noodle, is served chilled to dip in a sauce or warm in soup. Udon, a thicker, wheat flour noodle, is most commonly served with a dipping sauce or in soup but may be pan fried, my favorite preparation. There are also yam, rice and potato starch noodles, all without gluten, used in soup or for dipping.

Sautéed garlic mashed with a fork in the pan

I’ve always preferred soba over udon, choosing buckwheat over white wheat flour for a more robust taste, when eating Japanese noodles that are not ramen. But over the years I’ve warmed to udon, especially now that there are some whole wheat varieties. Like most noodles—eastern or western—udon is best when it is not overcooked so it maintains a toothsome chew.

Mushrooms cooking with the smashed garlic

The udon recipe I like best is one I learned at the now defunct Natural Gourmet Cookery School (RIP!) and this is my adaptation of that recipe. It combines eastern (udon and umeboshi plum vinegar) and western (Italian herbs and olive oil) ingredients with those used in both the East and West (garlic, mushroom, broccoli) so it’s quite a global dish. Easy to make and loved by kids as well as adults, it is good leftover either cold or warmed up. Do yourself a favor and make a double recipe so you can serve it again in a day or two, if you can resist eating it straight out of the fridge before then.

Udon with Vegetables and Italian Herbs
Stoneware Serving Dish by Nick Joerling

UDON PRIMAVERA

  • 8 oz dry udon noodles (or soba or even spaghetti)
  • 2 Tbs olive oil (more if you find it too dry at the end)
  • 1 bunch broccoli (3+ cups bite sized pieces)
  • 1 head garlic, separated into cleaned whole cloves
  • 3 cups sliced mushrooms, Cremini or any mix you like
  • 1 Tbs dried oregano
  • 1 tsp dried basil
  • 1 tsp dried thyme
  • Pinch salt and pepper
  • 2 Tbs umeboshi plum vinegar (more to taste but sparingly)
  • Put up a big pot of water to boil (for udon).

Blanche broccoli in boiling water 2 minutes, scoop out, drain and set aside.

Heat oil in a large sauté pan and add whole garlic cloves.

When the garlic begins to soften, smash each clove with a fork, breaking it down into strands.

Add mushrooms, pinch of salt and pepper and continue to cook until mushrooms lose water. Add herbs and broccoli and cook about 2 minutes longer until all are well mixed and cooked.

While cooking vegetables, cook udon in the boiled broccoli water, stirring several times until al dente. Drain and add to cooked vegetables. Add vinegar to all and toss well. Taste and add more vinegar or oil, if needed. Serve immediately.

Leftovers keep well and can be eaten at room temperature or reheated.

Serves 4.

A Savory Barley Salad For Personal Mid-Pandemic Celebrations Of Labor Day

Vegetable Barley Salad
Squared Stoneware Bowl by Royce Yoder

Labor Day is not only the American celebration of workers but also the traditional day off to mark the end of summer even though technically the fall equinox is still weeks away. Although this has been a strange summer for so many reasons, September’s cooler nights and memories of back to school spark hopefulness for me. Labor Day usually brings to mind union parades, barbecues and last gasp summer picnics. With all that not happening, I propose we try to use the day this year to recharge for all the political work ahead. We can still grill or picnic, even if by ourselves, with the people we live with or distanced with our neighbors rather than in unsafe large gatherings. A great dish for a still-warm-but-getting-cooler outdoor meal is a zesty barley salad with lots of vegetables and herbs.

Barley is a nutritional powerhouse. It happens to be one of my favorite grains and I am always looking for new ways to use it. I found a recipe for a cold barley salad by Melissa Clark using barley and it was pleasant, a little bit tangy and chewy in a good way, but needed some oomph. Maybe in ordinary times it would have been enough but in these fraught days, I seem to want stronger flavors. There is something soothing about barley, perhaps the sweetness or the density of the “chew,” but it can take quite a lot of seasoning. So I used Clark’s recipe as a springboard and tried to add crunch and zing.

A few types of barley
Any will work in this recipe

Barley needs to be cooked thoroughly, but overcook it and it turns to mush. This is great if you want a porridge, but for a salad you want some density so watch the cooking time and keep  testing while it simmers. I tried both pearled Italian and black barley because they cook faster (important when there is no air conditioning in your kitchen) but hulled works, too, for more nutrition and fiber. If you don’t eat gluten, try making this with Job’s Tears (little orbs of chewiness that for years I thought was a type of barley but is a completely different grass seed called coix seed) but it is harder to find.

Raw vegetables add textural contrast, color and nutrition to the barley and hold up to whatever vinaigrette you use. I find them most appealing finely diced rather than in big chunks or slices, but that is a personal preference. I use dill and parsley but fresh cilantro, basil, oregano or mint could all work. My vinaigrette is pretty simple with garlic, cumin, lemon or lime juice and mustard but curry, balsamic, tamarind or sesame could be delicious additions. Carrots, celery and jalapeños are my go-to veggies here but chopped cukes, roasted peppers, cooked corn, sun-dried tomatoes, avocado or radish would be good, too. A rinsed can of beans makes this salad a complete vegan protein or you can serve it as a starch alongside some cold or grilled chicken or fish. Make it a few hours ahead and the flavors will really pop. Composed of mostly pantry ingredients, this salad is an easy one dish meal for a warm end of summer day. Happy Labor Day!

Barley Salad with Vegetables
Stoneware Bowl by Royce Yoder

EASY BARLEY SALAD

  • 1 generous cup uncooked pearled or hulled barley
  • 2 medium carrots, finely diced
  • 2 stalks celery, finely diced
  • 1 jalapeño, fresh or pickled, finely diced
  • 2 TBs (or more to taste) fresh dill, chopped
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • 2-3 scallions, finely sliced
  • 8-10 cherry tomatoes, halved (optional)
  • 1 red or yellow bell pepper, finely diced (optional)
  • 1-2 cups cooked beans (optional)
  • 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan (optional)

Dressing:

  • 2 garlic cloves, grated
  • 3 TBs fresh lime (or lemon) juice plus zest of 1 lime (or lemon)
  • 1 1/2 tsps ground cumin
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 TBs umeboshi plum or other vinegar (optional but tasty)
  • 3 TBs olive oil

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, add a pinch of salt and barley, stir and simmer until just cooked (15-45 minutes depending on the barley you use). Drain well and put in a non-reactive mixing bowl. One cup dry should yield 3-4 cups cooked.

Add carrots, celery, jalapeño, tomatoes, parsley, scallions, peppers, beans and Parmesan if using.

In a small bowl or glass jar, combine grated garlic, lime juice, cumin, dill, mustard, salt & pepper, ume vinegar and oil. Whisk or shake to emulsify. Pour over barley mixture, toss well and adjust seasoning to taste.

Serve warm or at room temperature, especially pretty on a bed of arugula or lettuce. Set out a bottle of hot sauce for those who desire it.

Lasts 2-3 days covered in the fridge

Echinacea