A Good Dish

making food simpler

An Old Time Martha’s Vineyard Potato Salad Recipe With A Few Updates For Late Summer Picnics And BBQ’s

My take on Cozy’s potato salad
Bowl – Desert Sunset Gradient
by Justin Donofrio

Potato salad is one of the traditional picnic, barbecue, cookout dishes that goes so well with not only hamburgers and hot dogs but all kinds of grilled fish, sausage, chicken and meat. It is both inexpensive and filling and although tasty, balances the often spicy or zesty flavors of the marinades and sauces that accompany grilled foods. We didn’t eat a lot of potato salad growing up. We were more a cole slaw household. Occasionally my mother would bring home some deli or grocery store concoction (probably from Ron Chast’s “Coffee Shop Vats of the Jersey Turnpike” – a version of her hilarious cartoon is reproduced below) and I always enjoyed it but never really thought about making it myself. All kinds of cabbage and pasta salads sure but until recently, I never tried concocting a potato salad.

Both yellow and red boiling potatoes
work well in this recipe
Purple potatoes are an option

So why now? Well, because a friend who worked summers at Cozy’s, a long shuttered Martha’s Vineyard restaurant, recently shared her recollection of the potato salad she used to make there. She had made it so frequently that the ingredient list was seared in her memory. Amy didn’t remember exact amounts but she also said it had never been precisely measured. I gave it a try and the measurements here are my best guess. Truly I think this is a completely flexible and forgiving recipe. I used yellow potatoes just because I like them (second only to purple) but I think any boiling (not baking) potatoes would work. I enjoy hard-boiled eggs, pickle relish or chopped gherkins and sometimes dill in my potato salad, but you may have other add-in preferences. I’ve heard of people adding capers, bacon, ham, basil and chopped hot peppers. I also use more mustard and vinegar, a little hot sauce, and olive oil instead of mayo altogether, especially if it is going to sit out a while. And many of you will want more salt than I use. Cozy’s may have closed long ago but their delicious potato salad lives on! Thanks, Amy!

Olive oil potato salad
a la Cozy’s (RIP)

COZY’S POTATO SALAD

Amy’s instructions from memory:

  • Boil, peel and cube potatoes 
  • Grate a carrot
  • Dice an onion
  • Chop some celery
  • 1 capful of white vinegar
  • 1 tsp yellow mustard
  • Salt and pepper
  • Celery seed
  • Parsley
  • Mayonnaise

My version:

Combine in a large mixing bowl:

  • 2 lbs boiled potatoes, like Yukon Gold, cut in bite-sized cubes-4-5 cups
  • I medium to large carrot, grated-about 1 cup
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced (yellow, Vidalia or red)-about 1 cup
  • 3 stalks celery, diced or thinly sliced-about 1 cup
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • Whisk together in a smaller bowl:
  • 1-2 TBs white or cider vinegar
  • 1-2 TBs yellow or Dijon mustard
  • 1 tsp celery seed
  • 1 tsp salt 
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  •  2 TBs olive oil (or 1/4 cup mayo)

Pour dressing over vegetables and mix well. 

Refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 6-8 servings

Optional add-ins:

  • Chopped pickles or pickle relish
  • Chopped hard boiled eggs 
  • Capers
  • Scallions
  • White wine
  • Crumbled bacon
  • Finely diced radish
  • Fresh or dried dill, basil or toasted caraway seeds
  • Hot sauce or cayenne  
Desert Sunset Gradient Bowl Verso
by Justin Donofrio
Roz Chast’s New Yorker cartoon

 

A Light, Refreshing Fresh Start Cocktail Might Be Just What You Need

Fresh Start cocktail
Porcelain “Hoofer Cup”
by Brooke Cashion

It has been a stubbornly hot summer during which national and global affairs have been completely depressing. And although we thought we were being fastidiously careful, I came down with Covid just after moving to a summer rental and spent 3 weeks in isolation drinking water and soup and trying to get well while feeling pretty depressed. I recovered (so, so grateful for vaccines), realized how lucky I was and longed for an actual cocktail. Although a temporary reprieve, a fizzy iced drink, like a cold swim or an air conditioned movie, can take the edge off the heat and the news. Fortunately, while browsing the new cookbooks at the local library (don’t you always browse the cookbooks?), I came across a drink recipe called a White Noise I thought might do the trick. 

Choose the Elderflower liqueur
of your preference
Choose either Lillet Blanc or
Cocchi Americano Bianco

Found in a fun-to-read book called Northern Hospitality by Andrew and Briana Volk, owners of a Portland, Maine cocktail bar, the White Noise combines two of my favorite summer liquors – elderflower liqueur (I love St Germain in hot weather cocktails)) and Cocchi Americano Bianco (a citrusy fortified wine simultaneously sweet and bitter) – with bubbly water and a twist. I used Lillet Blanc because we had it and we were out of Cocchi (I didn’t want to overstock our temporary bar), added bitters and both fresh lime and grapefruit juice, not just a twist. This combination ticked all the boxes: light, refreshing and easy drinking. The bitters, lime and grapefruit cut the sweetness and added freshness. And, as the Volks suggest, this is a drink which is easily scaled up to a pitcherful to serve at a gathering; You just multiply by 6. I will call my version a Fresh Start. A bonus—the Start is low alcohol so it is easy sipping during the dog days.

Fresh Start cocktail
Porcelain “Hoofer Cup”
by Brooke Cashion

FRESH START COCKTAIL

Stir together:

  • 1 1/2 oz Elderflower liqueur 
  • 1 1/2 oz Lillet blanc (or Cocchi Americano Bianco)
  • Dash Angostura bitters
  • 2 oz fresh grapefruit juice
  • 1/2 oz fresh lime juice
  • 4 oz bubbly water

Add ice and garnish with a grapefruit or lime twist or slice. 

Interior of porcelain “Hoofer Cup”
by Brooke Cashion

 

BROOKE CASHION creates large, undulating vases, candlesticks and other “vessels” as well as lively slipcast and pinched cups perfect for sipping. Her wiggly forms and colorful painted and  textured surfaces make her pieces fun to use or to contemplate. She explains her process:”My shapes spring from molds I take of simple forms which I use as a jumping-off point for relentlessly exploring the many possible expressions of the shapes….I take apart the conventional components of the vessel and re-compose to question what it all boils down to, and how something grows from there.” Find Brooke’s work on her website or at Clay Akar or at Artstream Nomadic Gallery or on Instagram.

Spiral Vessel
Photo courtesy of the artist
Vase #1
Photo courtesy of the artist
Glimmer Dimmer w/ Snuffer(candle holder)
Photo courtesy of the artist

Bring Deviled Eggs To A Potluck, Picnic Or Barbecue And You’ll Always Go Home With An Empty Plate

Deviled eggs on a
Squirrel plate by Chandra DeBuse

Have you ever noticed how much people love deviled eggs? It is one of the few offerings that always gets eaten up at a cocktail party or potluck supper. As you enter with a platter full, people will help themselves to the eggs and you will always have an empty plate to take home. Not only are they inexpensive but also easy to make and guaranteed to please everyone except vegans (try sesame noodles, lentil salad or bbq tempeh for them). You may have your own favorite method but I will share mine in case it is helpful. Free range local and organic eggs may be more expensive but, in the scheme of things, still reasonable and preferable for so many reasons, including your health and the health of the hens! You’ll make your job easier if you use very fresh eggs. Just put the eggs in a saucepan, add water to cover completely, bring water to a boil, turn off heat, cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Then run under cold water over the egg – they should peel easily.

Use pasture-raised eggs, if you can

Dry mustard with a splash of vinegar was always my preferred “deviling” method but there are many ingredient options, including hot sauce, salsa, smoked paprika, chipotle chili (either dry or in adobo sauce), Dijon mustard, Sriracha, nutritional yeast, green chilis, bacon, relish or wasabi. My husband has an aversion to mayonnaise so I opt for a combination of Dijon and yogurt but when I want to go all out, I add a little sour cream or avocado. You can use all avocado, hummus, olive oil or a combination that suits you. I still think mayo makes the most delicious eggs but since I am not the only one eating them, I compromise. 

Presentation is important with deviled eggs – you want them to look attractive. An easy solution is to pipe the yolk mixture into the whites using a regular plastic storage bag with the corner snipped off. Another is to use a small ice cream scoop. Then sprinkle with paprika, smoked paprika or chipotle chili powder or top with your choice of roasted red pepper, caviar, chives, bacon crumbles, smoked salmon, blue cheese or fresh dill or cilantro. You can put out small dishes of each and let people top their own – that way they can choose their own happy place. We are still not eating indoors with other people but hope to be gathering with small groups outside this summer. Deviled eggs are one recipe I definitely will be making to share.

Filling the whites is easy when
you pipe in prepared yolk mixture

DEVILED EGGS

1 dozen eggs, hard-boiled and peeled (plus a couple extra in case of rips)

Slice eggs in half the long way and put yolks in a bowl. 

Put empty whites in a covered container in the refrigerator until ready to fill.

Use a fork to mash yolks and then add and mash until smooth:

  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard plus 2 tsps dry mustard powder
  • 1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt (or mayo, sour cream, hummus, mashed avocado or a combination)
  • 1 tsp cider or white vinegar
  • 1 tsp pickle juice (sweet, dill or jalapeño)
  • 1 tsp olive oil 
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp black or white pepper
  • Optional 1/2 tsp smoked paprika or chipotle chili powder or dill or just sprinkle on top

Taste and adjust seasonings.

Put prepared yolk mixture in a plastic storage bag until chilled (store in fridge up to one day). When ready to serve, cut the corner of the bag and pipe into the dry egg white halves. (I often omit 2-4 egg white halves because they have ripped so the others will be very generously filled). Sprinkle with paprika or your choice of spice and serve. 

These can be left out up to two hours.

Floral plate by Chandra DeBuse
Photo courtesy of @teafor33

CHANDRA DEBUSE is a ceramic artist living in Kansas City who makes playful, patterned pottery using a mid-range porcelain. Her work often includes images from nature – flowers, insects and critters (like squirrels) – with quite a bit of whimsy. She sells her work through Kansas City Urban Potters, on her website and in various galleries.

Porcelain plate by Chandra DeBuse
Photo courtesy of the artist
Porcelain teapot by Chandra DeBuse
Photo courtesy of the artist

Easy To Make Date Purée Is My Go-to Sweetener Of Choice

Ready to use date purée
Porcelain dish by Andrew Martin

I love sweets but I try to avoid using any refined or isolated sweeteners like sugar and agave, even watching my intake of honey, maple syrup and molasses. I have battled weight all my life and not only do sugars contribute to weight gain but also to inflammation, diabetes, elevated blood pressure, fatty liver and, perhaps, cancer. For years, I used sugar substitutes until we learned that they also cause health problems from weight gain (ironic) to cancer. Of course, I use or eat sugar sweetened foods on occasion but, for the most part now, I use dates, either whole or puréed, to sweeten foods and drinks. 

Cooked dates, lemon and cooking water
ready to blend

Dates are full of natural sugar but that is balanced by their fiber content so the sugar is metabolized more slowly and doesn’t cause the same blood sugar and acid spikes that refined sugar causes. They contain nutrients, like potassium, and insoluble fiber, which can help with high cholesterol. Dates are used as sweeteners in many countries where they are grown such as Syria, Turkey, Eygpt, Iraq and Tunisia. Natural but still relatively caloric, you have to limit the amount you consume if you are concerned with such matters. Fortunately with dates, a little goes a long way. 

 

Medjool dates seem to be the sweetest but many less expensive varieties (Bahri, Dayri, Halawi, Deglet Noor, Zahadi) are sweet enough to use in baking, drinks and sauces. Dates are native to the Middle East but are also grown now in California, Arizona and several other warm states and available in several forms. Dates sugar is simply dried, ground dates so it doesn’t melt in liquid the way sugar does but seems to work pretty well as a replacement for sugar in unfussy baking recipes (like fruitcake or banana bread) which don’t need to be light and fluffy. Date syrup is made of cooked dates which have been strained so have lost most of their fiber content. I prefer to use either whole (pitted!) dates (to sweeten a smoothie, turmeric latte or chopped in salads for sweetness) or a date purée which I make myself with a seriously simple recipe (for topping cereal, oatmeal or yogurt, sweeten salad dressings and teriyaki sauce and in some baking). It keeps for a month to six weeks in the fridge so I try to always have some at the ready. Sweet and nutritious!

Date puree
Slipcast porcelain dish
by Andrew Martin

DATE PURÉE 

  • 15-20 PITTED Deglet Noor dates (less if you use medjool)
  • 1 1/4-1 1/2 cups water (adjust amount for thickness preference)
  • 1/4 small lemon, seeded
  • Add a pinch of cinnamon, cardamom or coriander if that is your jam.

Simmer in a small saucepan 15-20 minutes until dates are completely soft. 

Pour entire content into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth.

Store in a glass jar or container in the fridge up to one month. Makes about 1 cup. 

(After you put the purée in a jar, there will be some left in your blender. Add kefir or almond milk, berries and ground flax or nuts and the residual purée will sweeten your smoothie).

Refrigerated purée keeps 4-6 weeks

 

Springtime pine growth

Love Rye Bread? It Is Easier Than You Might Imagine To Make It Yourself

Homemade seeded rye bread
Large blue and white stoneware bowl
by Wendy Goldsmith

I love rye bread, especially for toast and sandwiches. It has a specific flavor quite different from the more common wheat breads that derives not just from the rye flour but mostly from the caraway seeds. It is somewhat sour, somewhat sweet and just mildly salty. It is also one of the easiest yeast breads to make since the texture is dense and not as persnickety as sourdough, challah or sandwich loaves.

Brushing the loaf with lightly beaten egg white
makes the crust darker and glossy

Because it is so simple, the quality of your flour is important so it isn’t stale, rancid or devoid of nutrients. Buy fresh rye and wheat flour from good sources (King Arthur, Arrowhead Mills and Bob’s Red Mill are widely available but you may have a local (or near local mill) you shop) and keep it in your freezer if you don’t use it up quickly. Here is a list of excellent millers. The original of this recipe by Jeanne Heyerly of Chenoa, IL (from a community cookbook called Simply In Season) only called for 1 cup of rye flour in the sponge (the first step in bread making which starts fermentation) and 3 cups of bread flour to be added. Bread flour has higher protein than all-purpose so it forms more gluten, resulting in a better rise and texture. I tried to use equal parts whole rye, whole wheat and white flour to have more rye and more whole grain and it was good but quite dense. If you want to add some whole grain, try one cup of whole wheat and see what you think. The tiny amount of sugar is optional but I think the flavor of rye profits from a bit of sweetness. Honey, maple or date syrup, apple juice concentrate or agave are all usable.

Either grinding your own or buying fresh, good quality
flour makes a big difference to taste and nutrition
The sponge is simply some flour, water,
caraway seeds and yeast mixed to start fermentation

Growing up, I used to go shopping with my mother at a grocery store that had an in-store bakery that made fresh rye bread. The bakery women used to give us (kids) a cookie with sprinkles or a candied cherry when we tagged along but the crusty end of the freshly sliced (in those amazing bread slicers I always feared would take off someone’s fingers) rye bread was my preference. I still choose bread over cookies and rye is one of my favorites, especially for avocado toast, smoked salmon, grilled cheese or a bbq tempeh Reuben. This recipe makes one big loaf or two smaller loaves, one of which you can freeze for up to a few months.

Because it is moist and dense,
this rye bread slices easily

I asked a bread-baking phobic friend to try this recipe and she had encouraging results. She used one cup rye and 2 cups whole wheat in her trial and she found she had to add a little more water in order to knead the dough, which was too dry. Her bread was dense but she likes it that way. I am so happy she is optimistic about continuing to bake bread. Whether you use all white bread flour or some combination of flours, I wish you the same results.

Smoked salmon and smashed avocado
are both delicious on rye bread or toast
Platter by Wendy Goldsmith
This bread makes great toast!
Platter by Wendy Goldsmith

SEEDED RYE BREAD

Sponge:

Mix in a large bowl and let stand 3-5 minutes to proof:

  • 1 cup/250 ml warm water
  • 1 TBs active dry yeast

Add and stir in:

  • 1 cup/250 grams rye flour
  • 1/4 cup/ 60 grams bread flour
  • 1 generous TBs caraway seeds
Cover with a tight lid or plastic wrap and let stand 2 hours (or overnight (in fridge if it is warm out) for “the sponge” to develop more flavor).

Next day, stir down the yeast sponge and add:

  • 3 cups/750 grams bread flour (or a mix of whole wheat bread and all purpose)
  • 2 1/2 tsps salt
  • 1-2 tsps sugar (optional)
 Knead about 5 minutes (if too dry, wet your hands to add a bit more water until kneadable) and then place in a greased bowl, turning to grease all over.

Cover with a damp cloth and let rise until doubled, about one hour.

Punch down and shape into one large loaf (tucking sides under to tighten the ball) or 2 small loaves, letting rise until doubled again.

Brush loaf with a lightly beaten egg white before baking and again 10 minutes before end of baking to promote a shiny crust. You can add more caraway seeds to the top if you like.

You can bake on a rimmed cookie or baking sheet or in a Dutch oven.

Bake in preheated oven (375F) for 35-45 minutes, depending on loaf size. Check for doneness by tapping on the bottom (it should sound hollow) or check temperature for 190F.

Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing.

Note – When I bake bread, I usually measure in grams because it is more precise and baking is an exercise in precision. This recipe is so foolproof, however, that such extreme precision doesn’t seem necessary so I use cup measurements here for ease and because not everyone has a gram scale. I have included both measurements so use whichever you prefer.

Floral honeycomb platter
by Wendy Goldsmith
Wendy Goldsmith’s wonderful ceramics can be purchased on Ohanga.com and this summer at sales and festivals including The Art Drive
The beautifully finished underside of
Wendy Goldsmith’s beehive platter