A Good Dish

making food simpler

This Celery Salad With Pomegranate Vinaigrette Will Add Crunch, Tang and Variety To Your Winter Salad Rotation

Celery salad with pomegranate vinaigrette
Porcelain bowl by Bryan Hopkins

I try to get some kind of salad on the table at least once a day. While I can happily eat a green salad daily through the warmer months, I don’t always feel like lettuce during winter. Perhaps because lettuces tend to be cooling or because the boxed and bagged supermarket options, or their packaging, don’t always seem appealing, I stick mainly with my favorite carrot, beet, cabbage and fennel salads with arugula making an occasional appearance through the coldest months. Celery as a main ingredient is a fresh addition to the winter salad rotation.

Celery/celery root salad
Porcelain bowl by Bryan Hopkins

Celery remoulade is the classic French preparation of celeriac (aka celery root) as salad but it always has too much mayo to even consider serving it to my mayonnaise-averse family. But julienned celery root adds texture and flavor when combined with sliced celery stalks and really comes alive with a pomegranate molasses (just evaporated pomegranate juice – if you see other ingredients, look for a different brand) vinaigrette. I found the recipe in Cook’s Illustrated and altered it to satisfy myself by eliminating the honey, shallots and frisée, adding a green apple, and making the cheese optional. Choose any nut you like and adjust the proportions to suit yourself. If you don’t have fresh or frozen pomegranate available (I think this year’s window on fresh has closed), use a smaller amount of dried cranberries or cherries – they will be a similar tart/sweet taste that you need here. And if, for some reason, you don’t want to buy pomegranate molasses, you could boil down some pomegranate juice to thicken it and use that – it is essentially the same thing.

Celery root at the supermarket
Pomegranate molasses should be 100% Pomegranate juice

The original recipe calls for shaved Pecorino and that is tasty but if you don’t want to use cheese, and we usually don’t, just leave it out. If you still want more protein involved, add a can of rinsed white beans. This is a really easy, crunchy, flavorful salad with a tangy vinaigrette that offers a welcome change of flavor and texture in mid-winter. It also keeps well for a day in the fridge so you can prepare it once and eat twice.

Celery salad with Pecorino cheese
Porcelain bowl by Bryan Hopkins

CELERY SALAD

Combine in a large bowl:

  • 1 bunch celery, with leaves, sliced thinly (2-3 cups)
  • 1 cup celery root, peeled and julienned
  • 1 tart apple, like Granny Smith, diced
  • 1/2 cup pomegranate arils or dried cranberries, cherries, etc)
  • 1/4 cup shelled pistachios or walnuts
  • A big handful of arugula – optional
  • Shaved Pecorino, Parmesan or Ricotta Salata – optional

In another bowl, whisk:

  • 1 TBs pomegranate molasses
  • 1 TBs lemon juice
  • 1 TBs wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard – optional
  • 2 TBs olive oil
  • Pinch each of salt and pepper

Pour vinaigrette over celery mixture, toss and serve.

*   *   *

Bryan Hopkins makes both functional and sculptural vessels in porcelain but I would venture that even when physically utilitarian, all of his work is sculptural. Hopkins plays with texture, volume, line, rhythm, pattern and space in order to create works that pull us in, wanting to know more, wanting to touch and turn the pieces in order to understand them. His work is constantly evolving, perhaps a result of his continual experimentation, and always tactilely inviting. Hopkins is a teacher in Buffalo but also teaches via video posts on Instagram, sharing ideas, explaining techniques, promoting less well-known potters and encouraging others, the best kind of teacher. Find his work at hopkinspottery.com where he also shares a terrific pretzel recipe!

Porcelain mug by Bryan Hopkins
Photo courtesy of the artist
Pierced egg cups by Bryan Hopkins
Photo courtesy of the artist
Tumbler set by Bryan Hopkins
Photo courtesy of the artist

Make Summer Last A Little Longer With This Easy Fresh Corn Salad

Corn salad
Stoneware Bowl by Wayne Smith

Fresh corn is at its best from late August through September, if we are lucky. I grew up near farms that grew corn in Connecticut and we ate a lot of it, mostly just boiled. My father was so picky about his corn—he only liked small, tender kernels and wouldn’t eat it if it wasn’t freshly picked. Because of that insistence, we often drove out to farm stands selling that day’s corn, shucked it in the backyard and put it right into boiling water. While I am not nearly so fussy, I do appreciate fresh farm stand or farmers market corn, although I am willing to eat many varieties and will store it in the fridge for a couple of days, if need be. I am not positive it makes a difference but have always felt that keeping corn cold kept the sugars from turning starchy so I refrigerate it until just before using.

Lots of fresh corn
in markets right now

Sometimes we get corn in our CSA share. Otherwise I buy it at a farmers market or a roadside stand. Right now fantastically sweet corn can be had all over the Northeast. I am a sucker for the baker’s dozen deal where you get thirteen cobs for the price of twelve. What am I going to do with so much corn for just two people, you may wonder? Well, I boil or steam them all, serve two (or 4, depending on our voracity) and refrigerate the rest. This gives me the fixings for corn soup, a cold cob of corn for breakfast, corn in salsa, succotash or, perhaps easiest and tastiest of all, fresh corn salad.

Simple fresh ingredients
make a delicious salad

Making corn salad is as simple as cutting the kernels off the cob (use those cobs to make stock for corn soup), dicing some fresh red or green bell peppers and red or Vidalia onion, adding some fresh herbs and tossing it all with a tangy cider vinaigrette. Add peppery baby arugula, sliced cherry tomatoes, cooked cranberry or black beans or minced chili peppers as you please. This is perfect picnic or potluck food as it can sit out for a couple of hours if you bring it chilled and it stores well for a few days refrigerated. Fresh corn salad makes a terrific summer meal alongside a tomato or peach caprese salad. Buy that dozen so you have enough to share with friends and save everyone the heat of cooking for an evening.

Corn Salad in a stoneware bowl
by Wayne Smith

FRESH CORN SALAD 

  • Kernels from 6-8 cobs fresh corn, cooked
  • I red onion, diced finely
  • 1-2 red bell peppers, diced finely
  • 1-2 jalapeño peppers, diced
  • A big handful of fresh basil leaves, sliced in thin strips
  • Vinaigrette:
  • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • Big pinch salt and black pepper(Optional pinch cumin, thyme, chili powder-taste before adding to see if you think it needs more flavor)

Toss prepared vegetables with vinaigrette and refrigerate a few hours or overnight. Serve chilled or at room temperature. If freezing, don’t add basil until serving. 

Rimmed bowl by Wayne Smith
Photo courtesy of the artist
Platter by Wayne Smith
Photo courtesy of the artist
Jardiniere by Wayne Smith
Photo courtesy of the artist

Make Artichoke Heart And Roasted Red Pepper Salad Anytime You Don’t Want To Heat Up Your Kitchen

Artichoke and roasted red pepper salad
Porcelain bowl by Chris Staley

It is that time of year when the heat and humidity discourage me from turning on the stove or oven. We have air conditioning in the bedroom (thank goodness!!) but not in the kitchen so often it gets too hot to think about cooking. As a result, every summer we eat a lot of cold vegetable salads, which I try to vary to avoid boredom and increase nutrition. Green salads, of course, but cabbage, kale, fennel, carrot and raw beet salads all take their turn on our table. Because most of these hold up in the fridge for a few days, they are even more desirable since that means leftovers and even less hot kitchen time.

There are lots of grocery store options for
artichoke hearts in water and roasted red peppers
Artichoke/red pepper salad (the next day)
with added lettuce

My new favorite combination is a true pantry salad meaning it can be made from ingredients from my cupboard shelves – artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, capers and red onion.  Easily enhanced with a few refrigerator items – arugula, celery and parsley, possibly olives, basil or pepperoncini, depending on your preferences, it all comes together very quickly. Add walnuts and either feta or Parmesan to make a main course salad. Dressed with a mustardy balsamic vinaigrette, I wouldn’t have any hesitation about toting it along in warm weather for a picnic or potluck. This savory Italian-esque recipe is reminiscent of a dish you would find in an old school antipasto buffet, but lighter and fresher with the added veggies and less oil. Hmm, eating in Italy-now that would be delightful….

Artichoke and red pepper salad
Porcelain bowl by Chris Staley

ARTICHOKE/ROASTED RED PEPPER SALAD

Combine in a medium salad bowl:

  • 2 cups rinsed brined or frozen (and thawed) artichoke hearts, cut in bit-sized pieces
  • 1 cup roasted red pepper, seeded and sliced in bite-sized pieces
  • 1/4-1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
  • 1 TBs capers, rinsed
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 2-3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
  • 1-2 cups arugula (or any bite-sized lettuce)

Possible add-ins:

Fresh basil, toasted walnuts, crumbled Feta or goat cheese, coarsely grated Parmesan, sliced pickled jalapeños or pepperoncini

Whisk together:

  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 1 TBs wine vinegar
  • 1 TBs balsamic vinegar
  • 2 TBs olive oil

Pour vinaigrette over vegetables and toss.

Serves 6-8 as a side dish and keeps 2-3 days refrigerated.

Verso of porcelain bowl
by Chris Staley

Chris Staley’s work continues to grow and change while always questioning the definition and perception of a pot. This porcelain bowl is from summer 1985 when he was my teacher at Alfred. Our first assignment was a collection of 12 inch cylinders and it was that exercise that really taught me how to throw. He has been teaching at Penn State for decades and helped shape some of today’s best clay artists as well as recently serving as NCECA president and continuing to make thoughtful and thought provoking work. 

Field of poppies

French Lentil Salad – Easy To Make, Nutritious, Tasty Cold And At Room Temperature – What More Could We Ask?

French lentil salad
Earthenware bowl by Michael Connelly

Lentils are one of the most important pantry provisions in my kitchen. Because they cook quickly, I can take a cup or two of dry lentils and have a meal ready in an hour. I might curry them, sauté with veggies, use them to make soup, cook with rice or simmer 20 minutes and then dress them to make a salad. Lentil salad is a hot weather favorite because you cook once and eat several times, avoiding the repeated heat of the stove. It is also perfect picnic and lunchbox food as it can sit out awhile and tastes good cold or at room temperature.

French lentil salad
Earthenware bowl by Michael Connelly

Lentil salads are extremely variable depending on how you season or dress them and what vegetables, fruits, seeds, nuts or cheese you add. My favorite lentils for a salad are the black beluga or the du Puy (from the Puy region of France) because they hold their shape when tossed but plain old brown or green lentils will work, too. (Save the red for soups or curries as they turn completely soft when cooked). They must be cooked sufficiently (to get rid of lectins, a kind of protein lost with cooking that isn’t good for you) but not so much that they get mushy. The salad here is based on a recently published recipe by Steve Sando, the Rancho Gordo bean guru, which I enhanced to suit my tastes. (His website has lots of great bean recipes). I change it up each time I make it depending on what vinegars, herbs or additions I have on hand. This week I used parsley, jalapeño, rehydrated sun-dried tomatoes, radishes and feta, because that is what I had on hand. After we’ve eaten it a few days running for lunch or dinner, I put the remaining lentils on toast with arugula and mashed avocado for breakfast or lunch. As with most bean dishes, I always make more than I need in order to have leftovers.

French lentil Salad
Earthenware Bowl by Michael Connelly

FRENCH LENTIL SALAD

  • 3 cups cooked French lentils
  • 2 cups finely diced or grated carrots
  • 1 cup finely sliced or diced celery
  • 1 cup finely diced red, orange or yellow bell pepper
  • 1/2-1 cup chopped preferred green herb – parsley, cilantro, tarragon, mint or dill
  • 1 finely diced jalapeño (optional)
  • 1/2 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes (optional)
  • 1/2-1 chopped avocado (optional)
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped watermelon or red radish (optional)
  • Crumbled feta and toasted pumpkin seeds (optional)

For dressing blend:

  • 2-3 peeled garlic cloves
  • 1/2 cup chopped onion (or scallion if you prefer)
  • 1/2 cup chopped red pepper (fresh or roasted)
  • 2 tsps capers
  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 1 TBs fresh lemon juice
  • 3 TBs vinegar (balsamic, wine, sherry or a combination)
  • 4 TBs olive oil
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Toss all ingredients with 1/2 blended dressing and taste. Add more to your preference. Serve at room temperature or chill and serve anytime in the next 3 days.

                                                                    *   *   *

Michael Connelly makes a wide range of artful, beautiful and useful pottery in various clay bodies and fired in different ways. His skillful throwing is enhanced by his masterful painting and glazing. His pots are in heavy rotation in our home. Michael has an upcoming show at Clay Akar in August and at his studio in Philadelphia in November. Here is a link to a wonderful interview with him by the intrepid Ben Carter.

Earthenware pourers by Michael Connelly
Photo courtesy of the artist
Rowhouse plate
Slipped and glazed earthenware
by Michael Connelly
Photo courtesy of the artist
Tall composite clay jar
by Michael Connelly
Photo courtesy of the artist

An Easy Bean Salad To Serve Friends (Or Just For Yourself) This Summer

Lima Bean Salad
Cone 1 Red Clay Bowl By Wayne Branum

I try to cook beans at least once a week as a good source of vegan protein. One pound (about two cups) of dried beans makes several meals, more than you would think when you see them before cooking. Dry beans rehydrate, soaking up a lot of water as they cook along with whatever flavors you add as seasoning. I usually cook them with either a piece of kombu (seaweed) or a bay leaf, following the folk wisdom that says these make them more digestible and have had no complaints. Once cooked, which takes 1-2 hours simmering while I am doing something else, I put the beans, with their cooking liquid, in the fridge and have the makings of many possible dishes for the week ahead. When I don’t get around to soaking and cooking, I rely on a backup reserve of canned beans.

Dry Limas Before Soaking

Some of my favorite bean dishes are also the easiest. Black bean soup, chili and baked beans  as well as cold dishes like hummus or lentil salad, especially great in summer. I add black or red beans to nachos and chickpeas or white beans to green salads. My current obsession is a garlicky and citrusy bean salad I make with Christmas Limas but you could make it with any bean that holds its shape. It is quite versatile in that you can adjust both the vegetables you add and the dressing ingredients. For example, sub scallions for onion, red pepper or carrots for celery, and shallot for garlic. Sweeten it by adding fresh or dried fruit (perhaps chopped apple or apricots) and bulk up the vegetables simply by adding more and serving it on a bed of arugula or lettuce. I first made it last summer for the only time we had visitors stop by and were keeping socially distant. I needed something that could sit out for a while without refrigeration and to which people could help themselves. Not only did this salad work, it was a surprisingly big hit. I hope we’ll be able to see many more friends this year and I will still rely on this dependable make-ahead Lima bean salad.

Christmas Lima Salad

LIMA BEAN SALAD

  • 1 lb large dry Lima beans (I use the Christmas Lima’s ordered from Rancho Gordo,    bought at the 97th St farmers’ market from J & A Farms,  or from North Bay Trading) cooked and drained
  • 1/2-3/4 cup Vidalia or red onion, finely chopped
  • 1 cup celery, finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsley or dill or a combination

Optional add-ins:

Currants or raisins, orange segments, finely chopped carrots, minced jalapeños, finely chopped red, yellow or orange bell peppers, chopped scallions, crumbled feta or goat cheese

Whisk together:

  • 2 large cloves garlic, grated or pressed
  • Zest (about 1 tsp) and juice (about 2 TBs) from 1 lemon
  • Zest (about 1 tsp) and juice (about 2 TBs) from 1/2 orange
  • 1 TBs cider vinegar
  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 4 TBs olive oil
  • 2 tsps ground cumin
  • 1 tsp oregano
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • 2 tsps kosher or sea salt (a little less or more according to your taste)

Pour dressing over beans and vegetables and mix well, trying not to mash the beans. Serve immediately or refrigerate for 2-3 days. Like most marinated foods, the flavor is better on the second day.

Cone 1 red clay bowl with white slip and blue stain
by Wayne Branum
Verso of red clay bowl
by Wayne Branum