A Good Dish

making food simpler

An Un-Hollandaise Sauce For Dipping Spring Vegetables Like Artichokes And Asparagus

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Carved porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

Now that fresh artichokes are available in grocery stores, you want to make something delicious in which to dip their leaves. A steamed artichoke, a vegetable rich in folate, is a treat with melted butter but is elevated to another state with a scrumptious dip. Hollandaise sauce, a traditional accompaniment to both artichokes and asparagus, has always been too rich for me. Plus, unless I’ve met the chicken whose eggs I’m eating, anything with raw egg in it makes me skittish. 

Growing up, we dipped our artichokes in a homemade mustardy vinaigrette with chopped, hard-boiled eggs.  My mother clipped the recipe from a monthly newsletter 40 or so years ago and still pulls it out every spring to sauce artichokes. When I went to copy down the recipe decades ago, it was already worn and speckled with drops of oil and now my own copy looks much the same. The original recipe in the newsletter came from Paul Steindler, a Czech chef who ran La Popotte restaurant in New York.

For years I made Mom’s recipe just as she had prepared it, but then it occurred to me that a few changes might lighten it up a bit. I swapped in apple cider vinegar for white distilled, replaced the white sugar with date purée and went back to the Dijon mustard that was in the original (not the bright yellow “French’s” hot dog mustard she used in those days). The newsletter recipe called for half a cup of olive oil but that made the vinaigrette too rich for my taste and tolerance. I cut the oil to 2 tablespoons and instead of adding a chopped egg at the end, I added 2 hard boiled eggs and blended them completely to thicken it all into an unctuous and tangy dip, much lighter than the original. For a vegan version, you could try substituting aquafaba or flax slurry for the eggs. If you want it more yellow, add some turmeric. 

After cutting the pointy end with a knife,
trim sharp tips easily with a scissors

We still celebrate spring with artichokes and asparagus dipped in this delicious mustardy vinaigrette only now I feel good about making it. This combination of a vegetable with a protein makes it a meal, especially if you don’t want a heavy supper. If there is any sauce left over, it makes a pretty good dip for carrots or cold leftover asparagus or to enliven plain cooked fish or chicken. You can prepare this vinaigrette ahead, as it will keep in the refrigerator a day or so, and just re-blend it while the artichokes or asparagus are steaming. 

Steamed artichoke with vinaigrette dip
Porcelain bowl by Janel Jacobson

UN-HOLLANDAISE OR HOLLANDAISE-ISH SAUCE

Process until smooth in a blender:

  • 3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 Tb apple cider, white or white wine vinegar 
  • 2 Tbs Dijon mustard 
  • 1 tsp date purée or syrup (or maple syrup, honey, agave, sugar)
  • 1/2 tsp Worcester sauce 
  • 1-2 Tbs olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • Pinch turmeric-optional 

Add and blend until smooth and thickened:

  • 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Great as a dip for artichokes (pour right into the center of a cooked and cleaned artichoke or in a small bowl for dipping) or drizzled over steamed asparagus. Store any leftover in the refrigerator for one day. Fills 4 large artichokes.

I originally posted this recipe in the first year of A Good Dish. This is an updated version with new photos to reach all new readers who have subscribed in the last five years and to remind others to make it. Thanks for reading along.

Porcelain butter dish
by Janel Jacobson

Janel Jacobson makes carved and fluted functional porcelain and stoneware pots, paying attention to form, surface and function. Once a student of Marguerite Wildenhain in California, she makes pots and carved wood sculpture in the Sunrise, Minnesota studio she shares with her husband, potter Will Swanson. Jacobson and Swanson will be one stop on the Mother’s Day weekend St Croix Pottery Tour I have longed to attend for many years. Fortunately , there will be an online sale in conjunction with the studio tour this year. Hope to get there in person next year! 

So many buds on this yellow magnolia!

This Celery Salad With Pomegranate Vinaigrette Will Add Crunch, Tang and Variety To Your Winter Salad Rotation

Celery salad with pomegranate vinaigrette
Porcelain bowl by Bryan Hopkins

I try to get some kind of salad on the table at least once a day. While I can happily eat a green salad daily through the warmer months, I don’t always feel like lettuce during winter. Perhaps because lettuces tend to be cooling or because the boxed and bagged supermarket options, or their packaging, don’t always seem appealing, I stick mainly with my favorite carrot, beet, cabbage and fennel salads with arugula making an occasional appearance through the coldest months. Celery as a main ingredient is a fresh addition to the winter salad rotation.

Celery/celery root salad
Porcelain bowl by Bryan Hopkins

Celery remoulade is the classic French preparation of celeriac (aka celery root) as salad but it always has too much mayo to even consider serving it to my mayonnaise-averse family. But julienned celery root adds texture and flavor when combined with sliced celery stalks and really comes alive with a pomegranate molasses (just evaporated pomegranate juice – if you see other ingredients, look for a different brand) vinaigrette. I found the recipe in Cook’s Illustrated and altered it to satisfy myself by eliminating the honey, shallots and frisée, adding a green apple, and making the cheese optional. Choose any nut you like and adjust the proportions to suit yourself. If you don’t have fresh or frozen pomegranate available (I think this year’s window on fresh has closed), use a smaller amount of dried cranberries or cherries – they will be a similar tart/sweet taste that you need here. And if, for some reason, you don’t want to buy pomegranate molasses, you could boil down some pomegranate juice to thicken it and use that – it is essentially the same thing.

Celery root at the supermarket
Pomegranate molasses should be 100% Pomegranate juice

The original recipe calls for shaved Pecorino and that is tasty but if you don’t want to use cheese, and we usually don’t, just leave it out. If you still want more protein involved, add a can of rinsed white beans. This is a really easy, crunchy, flavorful salad with a tangy vinaigrette that offers a welcome change of flavor and texture in mid-winter. It also keeps well for a day in the fridge so you can prepare it once and eat twice.

Celery salad with Pecorino cheese
Porcelain bowl by Bryan Hopkins

CELERY SALAD

Combine in a large bowl:

  • 1 bunch celery, with leaves, sliced thinly (2-3 cups)
  • 1 cup celery root, peeled and julienned
  • 1 tart apple, like Granny Smith, diced
  • 1/2 cup pomegranate arils or dried cranberries, cherries, etc)
  • 1/4 cup shelled pistachios or walnuts
  • A big handful of arugula – optional
  • Shaved Pecorino, Parmesan or Ricotta Salata – optional

In another bowl, whisk:

  • 1 TBs pomegranate molasses
  • 1 TBs lemon juice
  • 1 TBs wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard – optional
  • 2 TBs olive oil
  • Pinch each of salt and pepper

Pour vinaigrette over celery mixture, toss and serve.

*   *   *

Bryan Hopkins makes both functional and sculptural vessels in porcelain but I would venture that even when physically utilitarian, all of his work is sculptural. Hopkins plays with texture, volume, line, rhythm, pattern and space in order to create works that pull us in, wanting to know more, wanting to touch and turn the pieces in order to understand them. His work is constantly evolving, perhaps a result of his continual experimentation, and always tactilely inviting. Hopkins is a teacher in Buffalo but also teaches via video posts on Instagram, sharing ideas, explaining techniques, promoting less well-known potters and encouraging others, the best kind of teacher. Find his work at hopkinspottery.com where he also shares a terrific pretzel recipe!

Porcelain mug by Bryan Hopkins
Photo courtesy of the artist
Pierced egg cups by Bryan Hopkins
Photo courtesy of the artist
Tumbler set by Bryan Hopkins
Photo courtesy of the artist

Peach Season Is Here! Peach Salsa Is Delicious With Grilled Or Uncooked Peaches

Grilled (front) and raw peach salsa
Small bowls by Sandy Simon

Is there anything more summery to eat than a juicy peach? When I saw that a nearby apple farm was selling pecks of peaches (yes, peck—about 10-12 lbs) for $20, I couldn’t resist. But what do you do with 10 or more pounds of peaches, all ripening at the same time? When my sister told me her husband had been grilling peaches, my mouth started watering and my mind racing with ideas. I grilled a dozen peaches (delicious in green salad, alongside sausages or as a dessert alone or with ice cream) simply by halving and brushing the cut sides with olive oil and then laying the oil side down on the hot grate for several minutes. Presto—deliciousness!

Simply grilled peaches
Rimmed bowl by Sandy Simon

Although my husband and I are enthusiastic eaters, even we couldn’t chow down all those grilled peaches. So my next project was turning the leftovers into salsa. Pretty easy, actually. It merely took finely chopping some onion, peppers and cilantro along with the peaches and squeezing fresh lime juice over all. I let it sit a few hours in the fridge and, once again, delicious! I tried variations with corn, shallots, basil and fresh uncooked peaches and liked each one. No grill? Just use a grill pan or griddle on your stovetop. If you like a little more bite to your salsa, add a splash of cider vinegar and a pinch of cayenne. Use your preferred herb and corn or tomatoes to plump up your salsa, as you see fit. Other possible add-ins could be avocado, black beans, grated or candied ginger and lightly cooked tomatillos. This salsa was great by itself with corn chips and celery stalks but would also be good on grilled bread slices with goat or mozzarella to make bruschetta, atop baked cod or alongside a pork chop or sausage.

Prepared onions, peppers, cilantro and corn
Chopped grilled peaches

Even after making peach caprese with ungrilled peaches, adding some sliced peaches to bowls of yogurt and to smoothies and eating a few out of hand, juices dripping, I still had a few pounds left from that peck. Those I sliced, tossed with lemon juice (so they didn’t turn brown) and froze them on a rimmed cookie sheet, like we did blueberries a few weeks ago. When the days start getting darker, we will have a little peach sunshine on hand.

It is easy to freeze peaches

 

Peach salsa made with grilled (left) and uncooked peaches
Bowls by Sandy Simon

GRILLED PEACH SALSA

  • 4 (8 halves)grilled peaches, chopped
  • 1 small red onion, chopped finely (about 1/2 cup)
  • 1 shallot, chopped finely
  • 1-2 jalapeños, seeded and chopped finely
  • 1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped finely
  • 1-2 ears of cooked corn, sliced from cob
  • Handful of fresh cilantro, chopped finely
  • 1/4-1/2 tsp ground cumin and/or chili powder, optional
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
  • Pinch salt

Mix all together and refrigerate a few hours or overnight before serving. Keeps 3-4 days refrigerated.

Set of small slipped and glazed earthenware bowls
by Sandy Simon

Make Artichoke Heart And Roasted Red Pepper Salad Anytime You Don’t Want To Heat Up Your Kitchen

Artichoke and roasted red pepper salad
Porcelain bowl by Chris Staley

It is that time of year when the heat and humidity discourage me from turning on the stove or oven. We have air conditioning in the bedroom (thank goodness!!) but not in the kitchen so often it gets too hot to think about cooking. As a result, every summer we eat a lot of cold vegetable salads, which I try to vary to avoid boredom and increase nutrition. Green salads, of course, but cabbage, kale, fennel, carrot and raw beet salads all take their turn on our table. Because most of these hold up in the fridge for a few days, they are even more desirable since that means leftovers and even less hot kitchen time.

There are lots of grocery store options for
artichoke hearts in water and roasted red peppers
Artichoke/red pepper salad (the next day)
with added lettuce

My new favorite combination is a true pantry salad meaning it can be made from ingredients from my cupboard shelves – artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, capers and red onion.  Easily enhanced with a few refrigerator items – arugula, celery and parsley, possibly olives, basil or pepperoncini, depending on your preferences, it all comes together very quickly. Add walnuts and either feta or Parmesan to make a main course salad. Dressed with a mustardy balsamic vinaigrette, I wouldn’t have any hesitation about toting it along in warm weather for a picnic or potluck. This savory Italian-esque recipe is reminiscent of a dish you would find in an old school antipasto buffet, but lighter and fresher with the added veggies and less oil. Hmm, eating in Italy-now that would be delightful….

Artichoke and red pepper salad
Porcelain bowl by Chris Staley

ARTICHOKE/ROASTED RED PEPPER SALAD

Combine in a medium salad bowl:

  • 2 cups rinsed brined or frozen (and thawed) artichoke hearts, cut in bit-sized pieces
  • 1 cup roasted red pepper, seeded and sliced in bite-sized pieces
  • 1/4-1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
  • 1 TBs capers, rinsed
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 2-3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
  • 1-2 cups arugula (or any bite-sized lettuce)

Possible add-ins:

Fresh basil, toasted walnuts, crumbled Feta or goat cheese, coarsely grated Parmesan, sliced pickled jalapeños or pepperoncini

Whisk together:

  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 1 TBs wine vinegar
  • 1 TBs balsamic vinegar
  • 2 TBs olive oil

Pour vinaigrette over vegetables and toss.

Serves 6-8 as a side dish and keeps 2-3 days refrigerated.

Verso of porcelain bowl
by Chris Staley

Chris Staley’s work continues to grow and change while always questioning the definition and perception of a pot. This porcelain bowl is from summer 1985 when he was my teacher at Alfred. Our first assignment was a collection of 12 inch cylinders and it was that exercise that really taught me how to throw. He has been teaching at Penn State for decades and helped shape some of today’s best clay artists as well as recently serving as NCECA president and continuing to make thoughtful and thought provoking work. 

Field of poppies

An Easy Bean Salad To Serve Friends (Or Just For Yourself) This Summer

Lima Bean Salad
Cone 1 Red Clay Bowl By Wayne Branum

I try to cook beans at least once a week as a good source of vegan protein. One pound (about two cups) of dried beans makes several meals, more than you would think when you see them before cooking. Dry beans rehydrate, soaking up a lot of water as they cook along with whatever flavors you add as seasoning. I usually cook them with either a piece of kombu (seaweed) or a bay leaf, following the folk wisdom that says these make them more digestible and have had no complaints. Once cooked, which takes 1-2 hours simmering while I am doing something else, I put the beans, with their cooking liquid, in the fridge and have the makings of many possible dishes for the week ahead. When I don’t get around to soaking and cooking, I rely on a backup reserve of canned beans.

Dry Limas Before Soaking

Some of my favorite bean dishes are also the easiest. Black bean soup, chili and baked beans  as well as cold dishes like hummus or lentil salad, especially great in summer. I add black or red beans to nachos and chickpeas or white beans to green salads. My current obsession is a garlicky and citrusy bean salad I make with Christmas Limas but you could make it with any bean that holds its shape. It is quite versatile in that you can adjust both the vegetables you add and the dressing ingredients. For example, sub scallions for onion, red pepper or carrots for celery, and shallot for garlic. Sweeten it by adding fresh or dried fruit (perhaps chopped apple or apricots) and bulk up the vegetables simply by adding more and serving it on a bed of arugula or lettuce. I first made it last summer for the only time we had visitors stop by and were keeping socially distant. I needed something that could sit out for a while without refrigeration and to which people could help themselves. Not only did this salad work, it was a surprisingly big hit. I hope we’ll be able to see many more friends this year and I will still rely on this dependable make-ahead Lima bean salad.

Christmas Lima Salad

LIMA BEAN SALAD

  • 1 lb large dry Lima beans (I use the Christmas Lima’s ordered from Rancho Gordo,    bought at the 97th St farmers’ market from J & A Farms,  or from North Bay Trading) cooked and drained
  • 1/2-3/4 cup Vidalia or red onion, finely chopped
  • 1 cup celery, finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped parsley or dill or a combination

Optional add-ins:

Currants or raisins, orange segments, finely chopped carrots, minced jalapeños, finely chopped red, yellow or orange bell peppers, chopped scallions, crumbled feta or goat cheese

Whisk together:

  • 2 large cloves garlic, grated or pressed
  • Zest (about 1 tsp) and juice (about 2 TBs) from 1 lemon
  • Zest (about 1 tsp) and juice (about 2 TBs) from 1/2 orange
  • 1 TBs cider vinegar
  • 1 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 4 TBs olive oil
  • 2 tsps ground cumin
  • 1 tsp oregano
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • 2 tsps kosher or sea salt (a little less or more according to your taste)

Pour dressing over beans and vegetables and mix well, trying not to mash the beans. Serve immediately or refrigerate for 2-3 days. Like most marinated foods, the flavor is better on the second day.

Cone 1 red clay bowl with white slip and blue stain
by Wayne Branum
Verso of red clay bowl
by Wayne Branum