A Good Dish

making food simpler

Fresh Cranberry Sauce And Cranberry Relish Are A Breeze To Make But Hurry While Cranberries Are In Season

Cranberry relish and cranberry sauce
Porcelain serving dish and spoons
by Ingrid Bathe

Cranberries are a traditional part of a Thanksgiving meal but we eat them all year. I make the usual cooked cranberry sauce and a cranberry relish(uncooked sauce is called relish). I learned to make the uncooked version from my grandmother(1 bag of raw cranberries, 1 whole orange and 1 cup of sugar). She must have found it in her local Michigan newspaper; it turns out to be a widely circulated recipe. The only problem I’ve found is that most cranberry sauce recipes, like hers, are loaded with sugar. 

Buy fresh cranberries now in season
and keep some in your freezer

This year I was determined to find a healthier option so I tried my new favorite sweetener–dates. For the cooked sauce, I simmered chopped dates in apple juice(orange works, too) and added chopped, peeled oranges and raw cranberries with a pinch of cinnamon. It gelled just fine without the sugar and tasted delicious. For the relish(or raw sauce), I simply put pitted dates, a whole de-seeded orange(I used organic because I was using the peel) and raw cranberries in the food processor(high speed blender will work) and pulsed until I had the not quite smooth consistency that I wanted. Worked like a charm!

Chopped dates are a whole food,
adding nutrients and fiber while
sweetening
Chopped oranges add a layer
of texture and flavor

Cooked sauce and raw relish keep quite a long time in the fridge and are delicious in sandwiches, with cooked poultry and meats of all kinds and with cheese. A splash of sherry or Port wine is tasty in the sauce and I think you could embellish easily with raisins, pineapple or persimmon and spices to make a chutney. Both recipes are a breeze to make so prepare multiple batches, give some to friends and stash some away to brighten a dark winter night. 

Cranberries cooking with
dates, juice and oranges
Cooked cranberry sauce

COOKED CRANBERRY SAUCE 

  • 10 Deglet Nor dates, pitted and chopped (If you use Medjool, you’ll need less)
  • 1 cup apple (or orange) juice
  • 1/4 cup water
  • Pinch cinnamon (optional)
  • 1 peeled, seeded and chopped orange (optional)
  • 1 bag (12 oz.) raw cranberries, rinsed 

Put the chopped dates, juice and water in a small to medium saucepan, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Add cinnamon and orange, if using, and cranberries. Simmer until most of the berries have popped, stirring occasionally. Take off heat and let cool. Store in a glass container in the fridge until ready to use. 

Cranberry relish pureed
in the blender

CRANBERRY RELISH 

  • 1 orange, preferably organic, cut in quarters and de-seeded
  • 10 Deglet Nor dates, pitted
  • 1 bag (12 oz.) raw cranberries, rinsed 
  • Put in food processor or blender and pulse until desired consistency. 

Store in a glass container in the fridge. 

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INGRID BATHE pinches porcelain into thin, fragile-looking but sturdy cups, bowls, vases, jars, plates and serving dishes, each with the visible imprint of her touch. She doesn’t hide the seams or fingerprints so you see all the evidence of the process, the making. Bathe uses rare earth oxides in glazes on the interiors to achieve an enticing range of pale blues to purples. There is something wintry, almost icy, and appealing about these cool surfaces – not surprising as she lives in mid-coast Maine. You can find places her work is sold on her website.

Pinched porcelain pots by Ingrid Bathe
Photo courtesy of the artist

 

Serving tray with small bowls/spoons by Ingrid Bathe
Photo courtesy of the artist
Vases by Ingrid Bathe
Photo courtesy of the artist

Easy To Make Date Purée Is My Go-to Sweetener Of Choice

Ready to use date purée
Porcelain dish by Andrew Martin

I love sweets but I try to avoid using any refined or isolated sweeteners like sugar and agave, even watching my intake of honey, maple syrup and molasses. I have battled weight all my life and not only do sugars contribute to weight gain but also to inflammation, diabetes, elevated blood pressure, fatty liver and, perhaps, cancer. For years, I used sugar substitutes until we learned that they also cause health problems from weight gain (ironic) to cancer. Of course, I use or eat sugar sweetened foods on occasion but, for the most part now, I use dates, either whole or puréed, to sweeten foods and drinks. 

Cooked dates, lemon and cooking water
ready to blend

Dates are full of natural sugar but that is balanced by their fiber content so the sugar is metabolized more slowly and doesn’t cause the same blood sugar and acid spikes that refined sugar causes. They contain nutrients, like potassium, and insoluble fiber, which can help with high cholesterol. Dates are used as sweeteners in many countries where they are grown such as Syria, Turkey, Eygpt, Iraq and Tunisia. Natural but still relatively caloric, you have to limit the amount you consume if you are concerned with such matters. Fortunately with dates, a little goes a long way. 

 

Medjool dates seem to be the sweetest but many less expensive varieties (Bahri, Dayri, Halawi, Deglet Noor, Zahadi) are sweet enough to use in baking, drinks and sauces. Dates are native to the Middle East but are also grown now in California, Arizona and several other warm states and available in several forms. Dates sugar is simply dried, ground dates so it doesn’t melt in liquid the way sugar does but seems to work pretty well as a replacement for sugar in unfussy baking recipes (like fruitcake or banana bread) which don’t need to be light and fluffy. Date syrup is made of cooked dates which have been strained so have lost most of their fiber content. I prefer to use either whole (pitted!) dates (to sweeten a smoothie, turmeric latte or chopped in salads for sweetness) or a date purée which I make myself with a seriously simple recipe (for topping cereal, oatmeal or yogurt, sweeten salad dressings and teriyaki sauce and in some baking). It keeps for a month to six weeks in the fridge so I try to always have some at the ready. Sweet and nutritious!

Date puree
Slipcast porcelain dish
by Andrew Martin

DATE PURÉE 

  • 15-20 PITTED Deglet Noor dates (less if you use medjool)
  • 1 1/4-1 1/2 cups water (adjust amount for thickness preference)
  • 1/4 small lemon, seeded
  • Add a pinch of cinnamon, cardamom or coriander if that is your jam.

Simmer in a small saucepan 15-20 minutes until dates are completely soft. 

Pour entire content into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth.

Store in a glass jar or container in the fridge up to one month. Makes about 1 cup. 

(After you put the purée in a jar, there will be some left in your blender. Add kefir or almond milk, berries and ground flax or nuts and the residual purée will sweeten your smoothie).

Refrigerated purée keeps 4-6 weeks

 

Springtime pine growth

Peach Season Is Here! Peach Salsa Is Delicious With Grilled Or Uncooked Peaches

Grilled (front) and raw peach salsa
Small bowls by Sandy Simon

Is there anything more summery to eat than a juicy peach? When I saw that a nearby apple farm was selling pecks of peaches (yes, peck—about 10-12 lbs) for $20, I couldn’t resist. But what do you do with 10 or more pounds of peaches, all ripening at the same time? When my sister told me her husband had been grilling peaches, my mouth started watering and my mind racing with ideas. I grilled a dozen peaches (delicious in green salad, alongside sausages or as a dessert alone or with ice cream) simply by halving and brushing the cut sides with olive oil and then laying the oil side down on the hot grate for several minutes. Presto—deliciousness!

Simply grilled peaches
Rimmed bowl by Sandy Simon

Although my husband and I are enthusiastic eaters, even we couldn’t chow down all those grilled peaches. So my next project was turning the leftovers into salsa. Pretty easy, actually. It merely took finely chopping some onion, peppers and cilantro along with the peaches and squeezing fresh lime juice over all. I let it sit a few hours in the fridge and, once again, delicious! I tried variations with corn, shallots, basil and fresh uncooked peaches and liked each one. No grill? Just use a grill pan or griddle on your stovetop. If you like a little more bite to your salsa, add a splash of cider vinegar and a pinch of cayenne. Use your preferred herb and corn or tomatoes to plump up your salsa, as you see fit. Other possible add-ins could be avocado, black beans, grated or candied ginger and lightly cooked tomatillos. This salsa was great by itself with corn chips and celery stalks but would also be good on grilled bread slices with goat or mozzarella to make bruschetta, atop baked cod or alongside a pork chop or sausage.

Prepared onions, peppers, cilantro and corn
Chopped grilled peaches

Even after making peach caprese with ungrilled peaches, adding some sliced peaches to bowls of yogurt and to smoothies and eating a few out of hand, juices dripping, I still had a few pounds left from that peck. Those I sliced, tossed with lemon juice (so they didn’t turn brown) and froze them on a rimmed cookie sheet, like we did blueberries a few weeks ago. When the days start getting darker, we will have a little peach sunshine on hand.

It is easy to freeze peaches

 

Peach salsa made with grilled (left) and uncooked peaches
Bowls by Sandy Simon

GRILLED PEACH SALSA

  • 4 (8 halves)grilled peaches, chopped
  • 1 small red onion, chopped finely (about 1/2 cup)
  • 1 shallot, chopped finely
  • 1-2 jalapeños, seeded and chopped finely
  • 1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped finely
  • 1-2 ears of cooked corn, sliced from cob
  • Handful of fresh cilantro, chopped finely
  • 1/4-1/2 tsp ground cumin and/or chili powder, optional
  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
  • Pinch salt

Mix all together and refrigerate a few hours or overnight before serving. Keeps 3-4 days refrigerated.

Set of small slipped and glazed earthenware bowls
by Sandy Simon

White Sangria Is Light, Fruity And Refreshing – Pretty Much The Perfect Summer Drink

White Sangria in porcelain tumblers
with crystalline glazes
by Gwendolyn Yoppolo

We have been pretty lucky heat wise on the East Coast this summer although farmers might have preferred hot and dry to flooding. Now, as temperatures and humidity are rising, I think less about cooking and more about drinking. Because I am primarily a social drinker, I haven’t been drinking a lot this year but lately have had a craving for something light and fruity to sip. Last summer I mostly drank an Americano, a vermouth and Campari blend. Still wanting something low alcohol and wine-based, my thoughts rambled onto sangria.

Fruity and refreshing

All of the sangria I have made or drunk over the years has been of the common red wine variety. I’ve seen white sangria on menus but never tried it so in the spirit of educating myself (and because a bottle of Prosecco has been on our counter calling my name all summer), I decided to explore and experiment. What I discovered is that almost any decent white or rose wine (still or sparkling) will make a tasty drink and you can use fruit juice to sweeten in place of added sugar, if you prefer sweeter, or add a little sweet white vermouth. 

Cut a rainbow of fruit into bite-sized pieces

Brandy is the most commonly added liquor but I think it is too strong for a white sangria—save it for the red sangria. I had some St-Germain so I used that and it was delicious. A wide variety of alcohols, including Grand Marnier, Cointreau, Triple Sec or any fruity Schnapps will do, depending on your preference or what you have on hand. I think citrus fruits and berries are particularly good in sangria and, at this time of year, I would use peaches, nectarines, apricots and plums over apples, grapes and pears, which are more typical. Mango and kiwi add a lot of sweetness. My husband thinks all these choices are too confusing but sangria really is completely adaptable to personal taste. My recipe is just an outline or guide. Most importantly, start with a wine you like as the base. I used a Sauvignon Blanc but I would also be happy with a white Rioja, Pinot Grigio, Riesling or Gruner Veltliner. Then whichever fruit you choose, make sure it is plentiful and whatever mixture you concoct, be sure to chill it thoroughly. Last suggestion–if you choose to use sparkling wine or sparkling water, add it just before serving so it stays bubbly. 

Prosecco or Cava full of fruit also make a good sangria

WHITE OR BLUSH SANGRIA 

  • 1 bottle white or rosé wine
  • 1/2 cup St. Germain (or liquor of choice, see above)
  • 1 cup orange juice (strain if you don’t like pulp) optional
  • 1 orange, sliced thinly and quartered
  • 1 lemon, lime or grapefruit, sliced thinly and quartered
  • 1 cup berries (blueberries, blackberries, raspberries or sliced strawberries all work)
  • 1-2 peaches, nectarines, apricots or plums, sliced and halved 
  • 1 mango, cut in bite-sized chunks
  • 1-2 cups chilled sparkling water, optional

Cut fruit bite sized and put in a large pitcher or half gallon jar.

Add wine, liquor and juice. (If using sparkling water or wine, don’t add until just before serving)

Chill for at least a few hours. Serve with straw spoons, if you have them, or just spoons to get up all that fruit.

Porcelain tumbler
by Gwendolyn Yoppolo

Simply put, Gwendolyn Yoppolo is a glaze wizard – she experiments tirelessly and her results are a true pleasure to behold and use. The colors of her crystalline matte glazes are soft yet intense and the colors run over the rims onto the pearly white interiors, making visible what you are drinking while framing it. Yoppolo’s tumblers are cinched and ribbed at the waist, making them comfortable to hold. The lips are thoughtfully undulating and compressed in a way that keeps your eye moving yet ensures ease of drinking. It isn’t that easy to find her work for sale so keep an eye on the “upcoming” section on her website.

Blueberry Season Is Here – Try Freezing Some And Making Nice Cream

Raspberries, blueberries and black raspberries
in saltglazed stoneware “shovel” bowls
by Suze Lindsay

Blueberry season is finally here! We await local blueberries with eager anticipation as picking is one of our favorite July outings. It is a lovely way to spend a few hours in a rural setting. Most states have listings of pick-your-own farms by county so you can locate one near you. My husband loves to munch as he picks and tries to leave a farm well sated. I, on the other hand, being very task oriented, concentrate on filling my buckets while contemplating what I will do with them. We often pick enough to stock our fridge for a week’s worth and freeze anything beyond that to use off season. Berries are easily frozen in a single layer on a sheet pan or rimmed cookie sheet and then stored in a freezer-safe storage jar, box or bag for many months. As I try not to eat sugar, I no longer bake blueberry pies, muffins or cakes, although all of those are delicious uses. Recently, I have been concentrating my efforts on fruit juice sweetened jam and nice cream, a simple frozen concoction of berries and frozen ripe bananas.

Fresh blueberries in a small
stoneware shovel bowl
by Suze Lindsay

Freezing berries on a rimmed sheet pan
keeps them from clumping

No one seems to know the exact origin of the term “Nice Cream”, a vegan blend of frozen banana and whatever fruit or flavoring is added into a soft, sweet but not sugary frozen custard-like treat. I am guessing it came about around the time the Yonanas dessert maker came on the market in 2011. This simple contraption squishes frozen bananas into a soft serve type consistency and is still being sold. Since then, many vegan “nice cream” recipes have been published and continually varied, including berries, mango, cocoa, chocolate chips and nut butters. I like a simple blend of banana and fruit with a little vanilla but use whatever fruit you enjoy (not apples or pears but frozen tropical fruits, berries and stone fruits all work) and see what you can create to please yourself.

A high speed blender makes
Nice Cream easily

Blueberry Nice Cream
Saltglazed stoneware bowl
by Suze Lindsay

BLUEBERRY NICE CREAM

  • 2 frozen bananas, cut in chunks
  • 1 cup frozen blueberries
  • 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1-3 TBs plant mild or fruit juice like apple, grape or cranberry as needed to get mixture to blend.
  • optional-1/2 cup frozen mango

Purée all in a highspeed blender (like a Vitamix) or use a food processor. You might burn out the motor of a regular blender so don’t try it.

If you want to add fresh berries or chocolate chips, stir in once smoothly blended. If you want your frozen treat to be firmer, put it in the freezer for a short time.

Highbush blueberries
at Stu-berry Acres

Picking blueberries is one of
our favorite summer activities

3 small stoneware shovel bowls
by Suze Lindsay