A Good Dish

making food simpler

Cooking Cool During the Summer – Just Bean the Heat!

Summer Bean Salad
Porcelain Terrine by Andrew Martin

It is officially summer now and that means different things to different people. Summer can be a slower, more casual time of year when you take time off to lounge by a pool, walk in the park or seek out a beach. Food wise, it can be a time for barbecues and picnics. For me, summer means finding ways to beat the heat and that includes the food and drink I consume as well as the way I prepare it for my family.

Because we live in New York, charcoal grilling is out but I might pull out the electric grill (the old George Forman still works) or a cast iron grill pan and toss on some marinated chicken or shrimp to get the flavor of summer bbq. No long roasting for me in the summer, either. In fact, I rarely turn on my oven, opting instead for a quick stir fry, pasta or a completely cold meal. I don’t even use my toaster oven much since if I turn it on while the air conditioner is on, I will blow a fuse – literally! Meat tends to make me feel even warmer so I concentrate on lots of salads, including light grain, bean and cut vegetable salads, and, naturally, just salad greens. The farmers markets are bursting with gorgeous early summer produce that is easily turned into simple, cooling meals (like sugar snap peas, asparagus, garlic scrapes and basil, for pesto). I try to concentrate on foods, mostly vegetables but also beans and fish and seafood, with lower calorie density – they are less warming so they help keep us cooler. And the things that heat you up might not be what you would suspect. For example, you might think that iced coffee is refreshing but the caffeine in it is thermogenic and will make you warmer. If you want to keep cool, make your second one a decaf or stick with water!

Geranium (1926) by George Sheeler at the Whitney

Many summer foods require no cooking, like guacamole, hummus, all kinds of berries and melons, carrot or beet salads and an assembled mezze or cheese board. Cold soups are refreshing and can be made in a blender (think gazpacho and blueberry soup). One of my summer favorites is a bean salad, usually with a vinaigrette and as many vegetables and herbs as I can manage to incorporate. I tend to stay away from cumin and ginger based dressings as they, too, are warming. Most of the time I cook my own beans for a recipe but in summer a few cans of beans suffice; When dressed, you won’t really notice any difference. Feel free to use whatever type of bean you like, add the vegetables you enjoy, toss in leftover chicken, shrimp, rice or cooked veggies and use your favorite dressing. My recipe is just a guideline. After all, the goal is to keep cool. If its all too much effort, make a cold drink and put up your feet. Happy summer!

NO COOK BEAN SALAD

  • 3-4 cups cooked beans (kidney, cannellini, pinto or whatever you prefer)
  • 1/2-1 cup finely chopped red onion or scallions, white and green parts
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill or 1T dried dill (or cilantro, mint or basil)
  • 1/2-1 cup finely chopped celery (red or green or jalapeño pepper would also be good)
  • Big handful of chopped parsley
  • Bite-sizes pieces of leftover cooked chicken, shrimp, rice or vegetables, optional

Vinaigrette:

  • 1 tsp minced garlic
  • 2 T fresh lemon juice (about 1 small lemon)
  • 2 T vinegar (could be rice, sherry, wine or balsamic)
  • 2 T umeboshi plum vinegar – optional but really adds flavor (found with Japanese products)
  • 4 T flavorful olive oil
  • Big pinch of salt
  • Big pinch of pepper

Whisk together, pour over salad ingredients and toss. The salad will benefit from a few hours in the marinade.

Can be served cold or at room temperature.

Once in a while we get a rainbow after a summer storm

Tossing Around Some Thoughts on Radishes

Sliced radish and sugar snap pea salad with sesame vinaigrette
Plate by Mark Pharis

Radishes are not the first thing I think of when I make a salad but they add variety to the usual greens. They are crunchy, colorful, nutritious and add a little sharpness to a salad that might otherwise be bland or neutral. One of the first vegetables available in spring, radishes make a delicious addition to a salad or can be eaten out of hand as a snack. Sautéed radishes are a fantastic side dish and radishes are also tasty roasted, good to remember once roasting season rolls around. We had some sliced radish recently in a tasty salad with a smoked aioli for dressing. It was the only bright spot in an otherwise disappointing dinner but it did inspire me to buy some.

Grocery store radishes are available year round

Spring radishes come in many varieties and shades of pink from pale to magenta. If you slice them thinly (a mandolin helps) and soak them briefly in a bowl of cold water, they lose a bit of their bite. Growing up, there was always a bowl of radish “flowers” in our refrigerator, waiting to be added to a salad. I don’t remember them tasting like much because after a long soak, the radishes become all crunch and no flavor.

Fresh radishes at the Union Square Greenmarket

You can cut radishes into matchsticks as well as slices (or the ubiquitous rose) or use a vegetable peeler to shave them into ribbons. I’ve never tried it but I imagine a spiralizer would make beautiful strands to compose a salad. A radish salad profits from a well made dressing with fresh lime juice or toasted sesame oil that will stand up to their bite but any flavorful vinaigrette or aioli will work. Radishes can be mixed easily with other spring vegetables and fruit. Try baby greens, tiny white turnips, blanched asparagus (cut on a diagonal), pea shoots, parsley, scallions, avocado or mango.  You can even toss in some toasted nuts or seeds. My favorite simple combination is radish and sugar snap peas – also quite beautiful.

Radish lovers!
photo by D. Lewis

Sampling the City – Summer Food Festivals & Events in NYC 2017

Sunny summer day in NYC

If you don’t have a country or beach house to go to, don’t feel sorry for yourself! Even without a barbecue grill, staying in town for the summer lets you enjoy the city when it empties out on weekends. Summer eating in New York means more than picnics in the park. Outdoor food (and music) festivals as well as liquor tastings and special prix fixe meals are available in every borough. There are events of all types and cost, from free street fairs to expensive plated dinners. The ones that caught my attention are listed below.

Even before the solstice on June 21st, the unofficial start of summer is the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party which returns to Madison Square Park this weekend (6/10-11). Last year I wrote about this event after the fact but this year want to give you enough notice so you can make plans to get there. Not only is there delicious barbecued food – pit masters from all over the country will be there smoking and grilling – but also there is almost continuous musical performances from folk to country to rock leading up to the final performance Sunday afternoon by Southside Johnny & the Asbury Jukes. Because many of the stalls were out of food by the time we got there last time, we will definitely head down earlier this time.

Smokers and grills lined up on Madison Avenue at last year’s bbq block party

For whiskey aficionados, Whiskey X (Brooklyn Cruise Terminal at 6pm on Thursday, June 8th) will include pours from over 60 vendors plus food truck snacks and music. If the entrance seems pricey at $50-75, know that most whiskey events of this kind are even more costly. You can get 20% off tickets with code WHXTONY  Just make sure you aren’t planning to drive home!

If your preference is hard cider, Pour The Core: Brooklyn (Brooklyn Expo Center on June 10th) is the place to sample all types of cider from more than 40 makers. Cider making in this country has come a long way in recent years beyond leaving that 1/2 gallon of fresh to ferment in the fridge! There will also be food trucks and seminars on making and drinking cider.

This weekend’s other options:
The Extra Crispy BreakFestival on June 10th from 12-8 (Industry City in Brooklyn) celebrates all things breakfast from more than 20 vendors, with food and drink as well as music, games and dancing.
The Green Festival Expo on June 10-11 (Javits Center) includes vegan, raw, vegetarian, non-GMO and macrobiotic foods as well as farms, artisanal producers and panels on subjects like the path to better eating, plant-based nutrition, school lunch and more. 
Broadway Bites pop-up food market (with dumplings, bbq, fried matzo, desserts and more from local chefs and makers) which runs June 1-July 14th (Greeley Square).
Vegan Street Fair on June 10th with $4 bite-sized portions from vegan and vegan-friendly restaurants and vendors (playground at Columbus Avenue and 77th Street). 

Fortunately the weather has been cool enough that spring flowers, like these pansies, are still blooming

Upcoming:
The Museum at Eldridge Street sponsors a food block party on June 18th. Their Egg Rolls, Egg Creams & Empanadas Festival will feature Lower East Side (Chinese, Jewish and Puerto Rican) fare, mahjong, language and cooking demos and klezmer and Peking Opera performances. 

The Grand Bazaar, which took over the Sunday Flea Market on Columbus Avenue, will be sponsoring several food events this summer including the Summer Ice Cream Blizzard on July 16th from 10-5:30  and the Famous Food Festival “Taste the World” on June 25th from 10-5 with tastes from venders of international foods. 

On Sunday, July 23 from 2-7, you can try Jollof, a rice, tomato and spice dish from West Africa at the eponymous Jollof Festival on Bridge Street in Brooklyn. There seems to be some debate about whether it originated in Nigeria or Ghana but whichever, it sounds delicious. Tickets are $12 in advance (you buy from the venders of your choice) or entry plus 5 samples for $25.

Slow Food hosts a monthly happy hour to talk with its leadership about, of course, slow food. This month it will be on the 26th from 7-9 in the garden of L’Albero Dei Gelati with a 50% discount on drinks. For a bit more ($121 but it benefits the Urban Harvest Program), Slow Food NYC is collaborating with Rouge Tomate Chelsea on a 5 course (with wine) farm-to-table dinner from 7-10.

You can get some good deals on prix fixe meals during French Restaurant Week (really weeks) from July 7-16th at, for course, French restaurants around town. And for a wider variety, NYC Restaurant Week Summer 2017 is scheduled for July 24-August 18 (again, weeks) with reservations being accepted from July 10th. Prix fixe lunches (3 courses) will be $29 and dinners $42. Although you don’t always get the creative food on a menu, it is a good way to try some of our otherwise very expensive restaurants. 

The 2nd Annual A La Carte Food & Culture Festival on July 30th 12-7 (Brooklyn Commons) will feature the cuisine of the Black Diaspora. Their  Facebook page describes it as showcasing Caribbean, Haitian and African food and will include chef demos, face painting and drumming. 

Summer in New York may be hot and grimy but if you have some fun and tasty events to look forward to, it is a little more enjoyable. See you out there!

Dahlias at the Conservatory Garden in Central Park

Strawberry Bruschetta – A Toast to Summer

Strawberry Bruschetta
Plate by Mary Barringer

I was never in love with bruschetta (I’m always trying to avoid more bread) but Strawberry Bruschetta changed my mind. For some of you it may not be a new experience but I tasted it for the first time recently at a wine bar happy hour with a friend who was visiting from DC. We were both amazed at how something so simple could be so delicious. Since June is peak season for strawberries in the Northeast, I thought I would start off the month with an easy recipe that is suitable for an hors d’oeuvre, starter or light meal.

The strawberries can be prepared different ways but the two I found best were cutting and tossing with balsamic vinegar and olive oil or slicing and drizzling with an aged balsamic (or balsamic that has been reduced by simmering if you don’t want to spring for the expensive stuff). The spread layer can vary, the most common being goat cheese or mascarpone. I like it with plain ricotta but even cream cheese or butter work. For a lighter or vegan version, you could leave off the cheese completely, perhaps adding a smear of jam under the berries. And to make without bread altogether, try a slice of cucumber.

 

The most popular herb in recipes for strawberry bruschetta is fresh basil (going with the balsamic, cheese, etc.) but I like it with fresh mint, too, and even parsley could be good in a pinch. The toast, itself, can be almost any kind of bread but a dense sourdough or whole grain baguette is an easy size when sliced. For hors d’oeuvres, little specialty crisps (like the Trader Joe’s Fig & Olive Crisps) work perfectly with a single small berry or slice for a one bite serving. For a meal, a larger piece of bread is useful, served like an open faced sandwich. Strawberries are a delicious alternative until tomato season arrives and it is fun to use what is in season for some surprisingly tasty bites! 

Version 1 with mint on left, Version 2 with basil on right
Oiled Maple board by Edward Wohl

STRAWBERRY BRUSCHETTA

Version 1:

  • Wash, hull and cut in bite-sized pieces fresh strawberries.
  • Whisk equal parts balsamic vinegar with extra virgin olive oil.
  • Add a pinch of salt and black pepper.
  • Pour over cut berries, toss and let marinate while you prepare toasts.
  • Cut thin slices from a baguette and toast until golden brown and cool.
  • For a richer bruschetta, drizzle or brush toasts with additional olive oil.
  • Spread each toast with ricotta, mascarpone, cream cheese, butter or fresh goat cheese).
  • Top the cheese with a spoonful of the marinated strawberries on each toast and sprinkle with torn fresh basil or mint leaves.

Version 2:

  • Cut thin slices from a baguette and toast until golden brown. Drizzle lightly or brush with a good olive oil and let cool. For an hors d’oeuvre, use small crisps on their own.
  • Spread each toast (or crisp) with ricotta, mascarpone. butter, cream cheese or fresh goat cheese and sprinkle with a bit of salt (salt optional).
  • Top with thinly sliced strawberries (for crisps just use one slice).
  • Drizzle with aged or reduced balsamic vinegar (or a vinaigrette made from equal parts vinegar and oil) and sprinkle on chopped fresh basil or mint leaves.
Bite sized version on crisps with cream cheese

This Easy Celebratory Recipe is a Piece of (Ice Cream) Cake

3 layer ice-cream cake
Plate by Cristina Salusti

Our son was never much of a cake eater growing up. Now, of course, he eats it occasionally but for a long time, his favorite sweets were ice cream and cookies. Thus, when birthdays rolled around, I had to be creative. For years I made elaborate iced cookies or stacks of colorful Rice Krispie treats. When he was in high school, I started making layered ice cream “cakes” and they have become his birthday desert of choice. I don’t make a lot of sugary deserts anymore but birthdays still seem to demand something sweet. I could be satisfied with a big bowl of berries but this wasn’t for me.

Ice cream cake is a bit of a misnomer. This desert is essential layers of different flavors of ice cream on top of a crust of crumbled cookies with some sprinkles or chocolate chips on top. It’s almost too easy to even call it a recipe. You could use any kind of cookie (I imagine ginger would be delicious) and if you don’t want to crumble them, simply lay them in the bottom of the cake pan – the ice cream will soften them. The only essential item is a spring form pan. I bought my big rectangular spring form at a restaurant supply store but got the smaller square one at Home Goods for almost nothing. You could make this “cake” in a regular pan but it would be hard to get out. You would have to serve it more like pie, which might not be so bad!

Ice Cream “Cake”

Place one container of ice cream in the refrigerator for a couple of hours to soften. The flavors of ice cream are up to you – chocolate, coffee and mint chocolate chip is the favorite combo in our home but fruit flavors layered with vanilla could be good or go wild and experiment – if you would like them in a bowl together, you will like them in cake form. The amounts you use depend on the size of your pan. For an 8″ round pan, I would probably use pints. For half sheet size, go for half gallons. In between, I’d use quarts.

Pulse cookies in a food processor to make crumbs
Spread cookie crumbs in the bottom of a springform pan

Make cookie crumbs by pulsing your chosen cookie in a food processor. I used half a box of Oreos (actually the Trader Joe version) but almost any cookie should work. (In past years, I’ve used a bag of Tate’s chocolate chip cookies with good results). Lay the crumbs in an even layer in the bottom of a springform pan. If you like, sprinkle with chocolate chips or pieces. When the ice cream is soft, pour it on the crumbs and spread as evenly as you can with a spatula without disturbing the crumbs. Place the whole pan in the freezer and put another quart of ice cream in the fridge.

Spread softened ice cream over crumbs to form the first layer

When the ice cream you spread in the pan is firm (about 2 hours), take the spring form out of the freezer and spread another layer of softened ice cream over the first. Continue in this way until there are 3 or 4 layers or your pan is full. You can add chocolate chips, crushed peppermints, nuts or whatever you prefer in between layers, ending with a layer of ice cream. Top with sprinkles, chocolate chips, melted chocolate or more crumbled cookies.. If you don’t want more chocolate or sugar, you could top with berries when unmolded. Keep in the freezer until ready to use.

You could put berries or greens around the base of the bare springform to decorate

Just before serving, take the cake out of the freezer, dip a knife in hot water and run it around the inside of the pan before releasing the springform. Dip the knife in hot water to make cutting slices easier. If you want to gild the lily, you can dollop some whipped cream on each slice and top with chopped nuts. Whichever way you choose, the cake will disappear rapidly!

4 layer ice-cream cake with chocolate chips
Plate by Cristina Salusti