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A Good Dish

making food simpler

Flank Steak – Marinating Makes It Tasty And More Tender – Just Don’t Overcook It!

April 30, 2021

Marinated Flank Steak
Porcelain plate by Bernadette Curran

Flank steak isn’t a cut of meat people generally crave but it can be delicious. It isn’t as tender as other steak types but does tenderize with marinating. Since it was the first cut I learned to prepare so it actually tasted good, I have a fondness for it (plus it is lean and not too pricey). I was vegetarian for so many years that I came late to cooking meat. But when I was pregnant and dreaming of roast beef, I started to eat some meat occasionally. Fortunately, my sister is a very skillful meat cook and she shared her technique for flank steak, one she learned from her ex-husband’s aunt. Marriages may dissolve but great recipes live on.

Best to marinate in a non-reactive
container like glass
Grilled marinated flank steak

We still cook and eat meat rarely (beef as food is not an efficient use of land and water) and only when we can find a local grass-fed source. Even in this strange year, we have found wonderful sources for well-raised, well-butchered meat. Almost every decent farmers’ market has at least one clean meat vendor, many farms sell directly to consumers and there are shops and even websites devoted to clean meat sources. I know no one wants to think about these aspects of food but if we are going to eat another creature, let’s do it in the best way possible. Free-roaming, grass fed beef is also better for our health than feedlot corn-fed meat. Yes, it is more expensive but if it is better for you and the animal, isn’t that worth something?

Grilled flank steak on porcelain plate
by Bernadette Curran

MARINATED FLANK STEAK

Marinade:

  • 1/4 cup soy sauce or gluten-free tamari
  • 2 TBs fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tsps olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp toasted sesame oil (optional)
  • 1 generous tsp granulated garlic or garlic powder
  • 1 generous tsp granulated onion or onion powder
  • 2 TBs sesame seeds
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper (optional)

Marinate 1 trimmed flank steak in a shallow non-reactive container (like a glass baking dish) for at least 2 hours and up to 24.

Remove flank steak from marinade and either grill or broil at high heat, flipping after 3-4 minutes, until the meat registers 130-135 degrees F for medium rare, the optimal way to prepare grass fed meat (so it doesn’t taste too grassy as happens when overcooked). Let sit for 10 minutes and then cut into thin strips across the grain.

Easy, flavorful and a crowd pleaser, this recipe feeds 4 generously so if you are feeding more or want some left to top a salad or make a sandwich, it takes no more effort to make 2.

 

Bernadette Curran makes wonderful, animated porcelain pots with lively depictions of animals and birds that really capture their essence. Her work can be hard to find but I have found it at the Philadelphia Potters Urban Studio Tour, the Art School at Old Church Pottery sale and Schaller Gallery.

Porcelain cow plate with slips/underglaze
by Bernadette Curran
Porcelain llama plate with slips/underglaze
by Bernadette Curran
Verso of Curran plates
Super moon this week

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Filed Under: Meat, Recipes

Simple Roast Duck With Duck Fat Potatoes – A Recipe Discovered By Tidying Up!

March 20, 2019

Simple roasted duck
Slipped earthenware plate by Michael Connelly

 

One of the best and worst things about painting your home, beyond the mess and inconvenience, is that you have to face years of accumulated stuff. There is no avoiding it when it is mounded up in front of you. Hopefully, at the end, you give away or simply trash a good bit of it, but in the process, you may find things you had misplaced or forgotten.

When we painted our apartment recently, not only did I recover some missing jewelry, but I also unearthed one of my grandmother’s loose leaf cookbooks of typed out recipes and pasted in clippings. Among instructions for jello molds and cheese-covered frozen vegetables, I found recipes for “meat loaf-Extra good” and date-nut bread that “one of the girls served the other night with a cream cheese spread – lush!”. 

I may have to revisit those two when we have our gas back on but until then I offer you her very simple and delicious recipe for roast duck, something I had long thought about making but never attempted before now. The recipe came straight out of her cookbook but didn’t indicate the cooking temperature. I assumed 350-375F after a quick roast at 425F to sear the skin. Duck is available in New York at farmers markets, Whole Foods and specialty food stores like Fairway and Eataly, in Chinatown and even Costco, and online at D’Artagnan, among others. I got a whole duck from a farmer at the 97th Street Greenmarket and simply put it in the fridge for 2 days to defrost. It was much, much easier to cook than I had imagined and cooking it on top of boiled potatoes gave us a delicious side dish. Because we still don’t have a working oven, I made it at my sister’s apartment and it easily fed 6 of us.

Roasted duck resting after cooking
before carving

My grandmother, Matilda, was a remarkable person who treated children with respect and made them feel capable and loved. A far better housekeeper than I am, she wasn’t a “stuff” saver. She taught me to knit and crochet, to play cards, to make chicken soup, to balance a checkbook (sorry, Grandma, haven’t done it in years) and the value of being a good listener and a good friend. She has been gone for thirty years but she is still teaching me how to do things.

Potatoes roasted in duck fat
Slipped earthenware bowl by Michael Connelly

ROAST DUCK (with duck fat potatoes, or not)

  • 1 4-6 lb. duck, rinsed and patted dry
  • 2 tsps kosher salt
  • 2-3 lbs yellow potatoes, cut in pieces, optional

Salt the duck inside and out, skewer the neck skin (a bamboo skewer works well but a wooden toothpick is good enough) and score the skin in a diagonal pattern (as you would a ham), taking care not to pierce though to the meat. Set the duck on a plate or in a baking dish and place uncovered in the fridge for at least 8 hours. 

When ready to cook, set the chilled duck out at room temperature for 20-30 minutes while you preheat your oven to 425F. If you want to add seasoning, fruit, garlic, onion or herbs, now is your chance. I just used salt. While the duck rests, put the potatoes, if you are making them, in enough water to cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer about 10 minutes, until they are just pierce-able. Drain and toss in the hot pan to fluff up the edges. Let potatoes air dry while you tend to your duck.

Place the duck with the breast side down on a v-rack, if you have one, or on a wire baking rack,  in a roasting pan or rimmed half sheet pan. Bake at 425F for 30-45 minutes, until the fat starts to render and skin starts to brown slightly.  Remove duck and rack (you can just rest them in your sink) and pour the fat and juices into a fat separator or glass measuring cup. Turn the oven heat down to 350F. Place the dry potatoes in the roasting pan (if you use a piece of parchment paper, your clean up will be much easier), add a few tablespoons of the duck fat and toss. (You can store the rest of the fat in the fridge for another use). Situate your duck, breast up, on top of the potatoes and put back in the now 350F oven. Roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the thickest part of the thigh registers 175F. Remove the duck from the oven and let rest for 15-20 minutes while the potatoes continue to brown. Watch them and remove from the oven when they are crisp. Carve the duck as you would a chicken and serve with potatoes. Warmed apricot, orange or currant fruit spread or any kind of cooked cherries, berries or even applesauce would be delicious alongside the duck. We had steamed broccolini but choose your favorite green to balance the richness of the meat. Serves 6

Duck fat roasted potatoes
Earthenware bowl by Michael Connelly

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Filed Under: Meat, Recipes

It Is Getting Much Easier To Find A Great Grass-Fed Burger In New York And Beyond

January 26, 2019

Grass-fed burger from The Double Windsor
Plate by Adero Willard

Even though I try to eat clean, healthy food most of the time, sometimes I just crave a big, juicy burger. When I do eat meat, I want it to be from a grass-fed, well raised animal. It used to be almost impossible to find a good grass-fed burger in Manhattan but that is changing quickly. There were plenty of good tasting burgers, always have been. Now you can find great grass-fed in most neighborhoods, even in some chain restaurants (Bareburger and Umami Burger, for example).  

Grass-fed Umami Burger

There are many reasons to choose grass-fed, including your health and the health and welfare of the animal supplying your meals. Cows are ruminants, which means they are constituted to eat grass, not grains. The fat they produce eating grass is different (and healthier) as is the quality of their lives than when eating grain, which causes them a lot of gas. Even if you don’t care about animal welfare, you might care about global warming (think about all that additional methane from grain-fed animals) or your own longevity, in which case, you would be choosing better (read completely grass-fed beef and eat it less frequently. It is lower in calories since it is leaner and it provides more omega 3 fatty acids – the kind we want.

Grass-fed burger at Cleaver Counter (formerly The Green Table)

I’ve read that all the meat advertised as grass-fed may not be, so it is worth asking the restaurant or your server where you eat your burger where they get their beef. Organic, Wagyu and Angus don’t necessarily mean grass-fed and, in most cases, are not (organic refers to the quality of the feed, usually corn and Wagyu and Angus are types of cattle). Hopefully, disclosure in restaurants and markets will get more transparent as better grass-fed beef becomes more widely available. 

Grass-fed burger at Smorgas Chef

Okay – lecture over – now to the burgers. There are certainly many great grass-fed burgers I haven’t tried but these are the burgers I can recommend, including a few in other cities. Many of these places also serve a good bison or veggie burger and often serve delicious French or sweet potato fries or a  salad with the burger. I’ve found the best way to order (or cook) grass-fed meat is medium rare. If you overcook grass-fed beef, it tastes, well, too grassy.

Grass-fed burger from Community Food & Juice
Grass-fed burger in a collard green wrap at Bareburger

New York Burgers I Have Known and Loved:

  • Bareburger (multiple locations including Upper East and West Side and West Village)-Good tasting and if you aren’t eating bread, you can get this served in a collard leaf
  • Buttermilk Channel (Carroll Gardens)-tasty and juicy in a hopping neighborhood cafe
  • Cleaver Counter (Chelsea Market- used to be The Green Table)-now served not with kimchi but with bacon jam-yum
  • Community Juice and Wine (Morningside Heights)-with caramelized onions and cheddar
  • Cookshop (Chelsea near the High Line)
  • The Distillery (formerly the Brickyard Gastropub in Midtown West)-with sautéed onions and avocado (very reasonable price) and a very good veggie burger – great lunch specials
  • The Double Windsor (Windsor Terrace)-with cheddar and pickles in a neighborhood tavern with a great selection of draft beer, cider and whiskey
  • Ella Kitchen & Bar (Upper West Side)-big well-salted patty with sautéed mushrooms and mozzarella – open for lunch and dinner
  • The Meat Hook (Gowanus in Threes Brewing)-a kitchen outpost of a well-respected, conscientious  Brooklyn butcher shop in a bar with a big draft selection and a garden
  • Smorgas Chef (Midtown East in Scandinavia House)-a quiet respite south of Grand Central with a very good burger
  • Tessa (Upper West Side)
  • Umami Burger (all over) really tasty, especially with Parmesan fricco (a yummy fried cheese crisp) and mushrooms or salsa 
  • Upland (Park Avenue South)-with avocado and peppadew peppers in a big, bustling brasserie
Grass-fed burger at Ella Kitchen & Bar

Beyond New York:

  • Allen Street Hardware Cafe in Buffalo-plus an amazing bison burger
  • Busboys & Poets, DC (and good salads)
  • Toups South in New Orleans-everything delicious (sit at the counter to watch the cooks)
  • Village Whiskey, White Dog, Tired Hands (actually Ardmore) and Standard Tap in Philadelphia
  • BelCampo Restaurant in Larkspur (Marin County, CA) with restaurants in SF, Palo Alto, Santa Monica and LA – delicious burgers made from beef from their own farm/ranch
  • Farmburger, Asheville (amazing onion rings)
  • Sweet Pea Cafe, Mount Desert Island, ME
  • The Table in London’s Southwark (across from Tate Modern)
  • Row 34 in the Seaport District in Boston
Grass-fed burger at Village Whiskey in Philadelphia

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Filed Under: Meat, Places, Restaurants

The Big Apple Barbecue Party

June 15, 2016

Smokers at work on Madison Avenue
Smokers at work on Madison Avenue

Barbecue isn’t something for which New York has always been known but that is changing. We now have several great barbecue restaurants dotted across the boroughs but the epic annual BBQ festival in and around Madison Square Park is where New Yorkers can really satisfy their cravings for smoked and grilled meat.

The Big Apple Barbecue Block Party took place last weekend and was so successful that when we arrived in the late afternoon, but almost 2 hours before the event ended, many venues were completely sold out of food. We were fortunate to get tastes of ribs and chopped, smoked pork from 3 of the more than the dozen participants who were cooking that day. Pit masters from New York establishments were joined by those from Illinois and many southern states, providing us different styles of regional barbecue. There were beer tents and tastes from local bakeries along with some live music, both bluegrass and jazz.

New York has lots of outdoor events during the summer months but this has to be one of the tastiest, plus it is a fundraising benefit for the park. Here are some photos to entice you to next year’s party.

Cutting and plating ribs at Dinosaur BBQ booth
Cutting and plating ribs at Dinosaur BBQ booth
Hungry but willing to wait crowds
Hungry but willing to wait crowds
Chopping smoked pork with cleavers for sandwiches
Chopping smoked pork with cleavers for sandwiches
Happy rib eaters
Happy rib eaters
Once happy rib providers
Once happy rib providers
Preparing pork for the next day's bbq
Preparing pork for the next day’s bbq

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Filed Under: Events, Meat, Places, Restaurants Tagged With: Barbecue, Madison Square Park

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Spring Market on Columbus Ave
West 97th St Farmers' Market

Welcome to A Good Dish

Here you will find recipes and ideas for easy to make and tasty meals, sources for interesting dinnerware on which to serve those meals and resources for ingredients, classes and food related travel. My goal is to make daily cooking simpler and to inspire you to try different recipes beyond the handful you already make repeatedly. I hope that relaying my experiences will enhance yours. Follow along and let me know about your own cooking and food journeys.

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