A Good Dish

making food simpler

Rethinking Watercress

I never paid much attention to watercress. For most of my life, it appeared only as an occasional garnish or in a salad in an upscale restaurant. Then one day, wanting something other than broccoli or bok choy, I ordered it as a cooked vegetable at our local Chinese restaurant. I was hooked! Bright green, garlicky, good texture (not mushy) and none of the bitterness of raw watercress – how could I resist? It was so flavorful that I was certain there had to be drawbacks: Surely it must contain MSG to make it taste so good? When I tried to replicate the dish in my kitchen, I was surprised when it was so easy to make. Just some chopped garlic sautéed in oil, a sprinkle of salt, a splash of broth or water and a lot more watercress than you might imagine – it shrinks almost as much as spinach. If you like a hearty helping of greens, plan at least one bunch per person. Leftovers are always welcome in our home – another vegetable for tomorrow that is already prepared.

Watercress is high in vitamins A, C and K among other nutrients and very low in calories (Let me Google that for you). More importantly to a cook, it is one of those green vegetables available at all times of year, especially valuable in winter and early spring when you are tired of kale and cauliflower. This simple recipe is especially delicious with mashed or boiled potatoes.

bowl by Mary Barringer
bowl by Mary Barringer

SAUTÉED WATERCRESS

  • 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1 Tablespoon olive, avocado or grapeseed oil
  • 1 big pinch of kosher or sea salt
  • 2 bunches of watercress, washed and cut in half (or smaller if you prefer more delicate bites)
  • 1/4 cup stock or water

Heat a large sauté pan and then add oil.

Add garlic and salt, turn heat to medium and cook about one minute – do not brown.

Add watercress and stir until beginning to change color and wilt.

Add the broth or water and stir occasionally until most of the water has evaporated and the watercress has softened, about 3-4 minutes. Some like it still crisp while others prefer it limp. Try it at various points in cooking the first time you make it until you figure out how you like it prepared. Taste for salt and add more if you feel it needs it.

Feeds 2 (in our home) -4 people as a side dish.

Easier Oatmeal

It may be spring, but daily temperatures seem to fluctuate wildly. When mornings are cold, I crave a hot breakfast. We all know that steel cut oats are good for us – nutritious, filling and full of fiber – but they can take too long to cook for a weekday breakfast. The solution is to soak them overnight. This is so simple and makes the morning cooking time about 5-7 minutes – too easy not to make them. A few additions make this a tasty breakfast.

EASY OVERNIGHT OATSoats2

Place in a small saucepan:

1 cup steel-cut oats

2 Tbs. whole flax seeds (optional)

1/4 cup raw sunflower seeds (optional)

Pinch salt

2 cups water (plus another 1/2 cup if using flax and sunflower seeds) or milk (if you want to substitute any kind of milk (nut, soy, coconut, cow) for the water, place the saucepan in the refrigerator until ready to cook).

Soak overnight.

In the morning, bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer, stirring often. If you prefer your porridge looser, add a little more water. Oats should soften and expand and be ready to eat in about 5-7 minutes. Makes 2-4 servings, depending on portion size.

 

To fortify: Add a little maple syrup or honey, chia and/or hemp seeds, chopped walnuts (or any nuts you like), raw or toasted pumpkin seeds, sliced or diced banana, chopped apple or pear, raisins or dried cranberries, a sprinkle of cinnamon, or whatever you prefer. My usual additions are a tablespoon of chia, a big handful of chopped walnuts, a 1/2 teaspoon of maple extract, a cut-up banana or berries (depending on what I have available) and a shake of cinnamon. Your breakfast, your choice.

oats

Warming Ginger Tea

The first Thanksgiving I didn’t travel home to see my family, a friend joined me to cook a meal.  Neither of us knew much about cooking but she brought some store-prepared food and I think I managed to compose a salad. Mostly, we focused on feeling grown up and independent.  This friend had just broken up with a Turkish boyfriend whose positive attribute was that he had taught her how to make ginger tea. Once we had finished our meal, she showed me his technique and we thought it was exotic and delicious.  I have since fiddled with the very simple recipe and although I don’t make it on Thanksgiving anymore, I do make it whenever someone has a stuffy head or scratchy throat or needs warming from the inside out.  It was perfect this week in New York when we had single digit temperatures. Add or subtract honey (I like it pretty sweet) or substitute agave or maple syrup, if it tastes better to you.

GINGER TEA

A big (3″) knob of ginger, (skin scraped off with a spoon so you don’t lose a lot of flesh) – about 1/2 cup packed

1/2 cup honey (I like raw wildflower here but any will do)

Juice from 1 – 2 lemons, depending on how juicy they are – about 1/4 cup 

5 cups of water

Coarsely grate ginger into a saucepan and cover with the water. (If you are in a big hurry, you can simply slice the ginger but it won’t be as strong)

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Bring to a boil and then turn down to simmer for 10 – 15 minutes.  Turn off heat and let sit for 5 minutes. (If your head is stuffy, cover your head with a towel over the pot and breathe in the steam once you turn off the burner – just don’t get too close or you will burn your nose!)

Add honey and stir to dissolve.

Stir in lemon juice and strain tea into cups.  

Sip while steaming.

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mug by Ayumi Horie

If you have some left and want to reheat it, don’t boil – just heat until it starts to move so you don’t overcook the honey and lemon.  This tea stores well in a glass jar overnight in the refrigerator and tastes so good re-warmed in the morning. It is also delicious mixed into tea, especially green, about half ginger mixture and half tea, cold, as a bracing ginger lemonade or as a replacement in a mixed cocktail for ginger beer.

Great Coffee Every Time

I gave up on electric drip coffee makers a long time ago. After a few uses, the coffee never tasted right, even after cleaning the machine with vinegar. I chalked it up to the plastic plumbing and parts. And then there is the pot sitting over an electric warming burner that leaves the coffee tasting burnt and reheated. Every time we were in Williams Sonoma, my husband and I would ogle the Technivorm, which heats the water to the perfect temperature but, alas, also has plastic tubing, costs too much and takes up way too much room on the counter. Perking coffee was out of the questing since boiling coffee creates a kind of nasty toxicity I didn’t want any part of and didn’t like the burnt flavor anyway. I liked the ease of a French press and I thought the coffee tasted good but when I read that it was healthier for coffee to run through a paper filter, I moved on. For years, I used either a Melitta drip cone, when it was just one or two of us drinking coffee or a glass Chemex when we were serving a tableful. One problem with the Melitta was that I didn’t like using a plastic cone, even if it was lined with paper (my personal paranoia). The other problem was that the coffee often got clogged up in the bottom and when I would stir to release it, the filter would tear and grinds would end up in my cup.

Last summer, my lovely husband did some research online and for my birthday bought me a Kalita Wave drip cone with filters. If you’ve never seen one, this is a gleaming stainless steel dripper that sits on a cup (or whatever you choose – we use a glass jar so we can make 2 cups). It uses fluted paper filters that look like a condensed mini version of a mr. coffee style filter.

The wave has a flat bottom with 3 holes through which the coffee drips – not just the single melitta hole. There are lots of reasons Kalita says this filter system works so well – the angle, flutes, 3 holes in a triangle, etc. The reasons I like it are also multiple – no plastic, cleans and stores super easily, and the coffee tastes great. Isn’t that what you want every morning?

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While traveling recently, we ordered coffee in an upscale market hall at a cafe where they used a Kalita wave to make drip coffee. Watching the barista, I had to bite my lip not to laugh or make a snide remark at the fastidiousness of his process (I’m not a usually so snarky but this performance was like a parody you might see on SNL). First, he weighed out the beans. Then he ground the coffee and weighed it again, swiping out a few grains at a time until his measurement was perfect. A tap dispensed boiled water at the perfect temperature and he wet the filter and let the water flow through. Then he set the dripper on a cup, added the perfectly measured coffee, and wet the grounds with a splash of boiled water from one of those long spouted Japanese kettles. (I have eyed them in the stores as they are very beautiful but do I really need another pot in my kitchen?) Once the grounds were sufficiently saturated and had time to bubble and settle, he kept a slow but continuous trickle of hot water pouring into the coffee. A few minutes later, I had my cup. Was it amazing? Not in the least. Although you could weakly taste the flavor, I thought the coffee was swill – way too watery for my taste.  But what do I know?  Only what I like – a strong, bold, wake me up shot of coffee to get me going in the morning and this was not it.

Now we use the Kalita every morning (so should I be laughing at myself?), but in a simpler way. I do grind my coffee in a burr grinder (a Bodum Brooks found on sale in bright orange that cheers my morning), wet the filter (as per the instructions) and give the coffee a moment to “bloom” after the first pour of boiling water (as per the instructions), but I don’t weigh or measure and the water comes directly from my tea kettle. The whole process takes about 2 minutes.

How do I like my coffee? Smooth, full bodied and strong, not too acidic and never flavored but flavorful. I use the organic sumatra estate (medium roast but dark and smells amazing) coffee from BJ’s warehouse club – 2 1/2 pounds for $16 which lasts us about 4 – 5 weeks. Whatever coffee I make (sometimes I buy the organic Ethiopian or fair trade breakfast blend at Trader Joe’s), I always use more than the recommended amount. And I put a little cup hook under one of my kitchen cabinets so now the wave doesn’t even take up any room on my counter.

I can’t swear that the coffee made in the Kalita actually tastes better than when it is dripped other ways. But it is stainless steel, easy to use and clean, takes up almost no space, and makes delicious coffee – win win all around.