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A Good Dish

making food simpler

The Rockaways – A Fun Boat Ride and Some Tasty Mexican Street Food

September 26, 2017

Pepinos y Frutas con Chili y Limon
Porcelain Bowl by Bryan Hopkins

You could always take the A train but now you can take a boat to Rockaway Beach! The ferry from the Wall Street pier to the Rockaways has been up and running for a few months. We took it for the first time recently and it was delightful! For $2.75, the cost of a subway trip, you get an hour long boat ride and end up, after a stop at Sunset Park, just a 5 minute walk from the Rockaway boardwalk. The views of downtown Brooklyn (seeing it from the water helps you understand what a huge borough it is – larger than many cities), the ever changing skyline of lower Manhattan, Governor’s Island, Jersey City, Staten Island, Bay Ridge, Coney Island, the Verrazano Narrows Bridge and finally the Rockaways. We sat on the sunny and breezy top deck alongside a woman drawing and writing in her journal, a man who had grown up in Brooklyn and was taking a nostalgic trip back, a group of male pals downing beers (yes, there is a bar downstairs in the air conditioned cabin on the boat) and a swarm of kids who crowded the railing, excited simply to be out on the water.

Brooklyn Heights
Downtown Manhattan from Red Hook
Heading under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge
Detail of the boardwalk mosaic border

The Rockaways or Rockaway is a peninsula on the edge of Queens which was slammed by Hurricane Sandy and in some places is still rebuilding. The gorgeous Atlantic side beach is wide and sandy with lots of recently planted grasses, playgrounds and pounding surf. It is known to have a fierce undertow and the big waves are beloved by surfers, of which we saw many! There is a completely new boardwalk that, when I heard it was made of concrete, I was prepared to hate. But it is great – plenty wide with a lovely mosaic glass border, lots of seating (and well designed, attractive seating at that – you will recognize it from the High Line), accessible bathroom and food pavilions. We had delicious arepas with taro fries at one (unfortunately the good looking organic juice and sandwich bar had just closed) at Caracas Arepa Bar and only passed up the burgers at the next stand in favor of an off boardwalk spot about which we had read.

Taro Fries with Avocado dip at Caracas Arepa on the boardwalk
“Mermaid” at Caracas Arepas on the boardwalk

Rockaway Taco at the Surf Club is a few blocks back toward the bayside of the island in a struggling neighborhood dominated by a Popeye’s chicken joint. The taco bar is set alongside a large outdoor patio with picnic tables (movies were about to be screened as we were leaving), a friendly bar which is the adjacent Surf Club, surfboard lockers and a convivial local as well as day-tripping crowd. We quickly joined the line to order and got pretty good fish tacos and what were called cukes. And not just cukes, this was a cup full of cucumber, mango and jicama sticks doused with lime juice and sprinkled liberally with chili salt. The salad is a common Mexican street treat, the kind of thing you might find at a roadside stand, called pepiños y frutas con chili y limón. When made only with fruit (could be mango, pineapple, cantaloupe, honeydew or watermelon) it is referred to as just frutas con chili y limon. Not only crunchy, it was refreshing on a warm night and a good balance to the spicy tacos.

Rockaway Taco at the Surf Club
Two types of chili salt at La Paloma Market on 100th St off Broadway

You can buy the salt in any Mexican grocery (two brands sold here are Pico Limón and tajin) or you can make it yourself by combining ground chili powder or cayenne with salt. And the whole dish is one of the simplest salads to make – it only takes as long as cleaning and cutting the vegetables, squeezing a lemon or lime over them and sprinkling with chili salt. If you want to make a whole meal out of it, add some crumbled cojita or feta cheese and sprinkle with cilantro or parsley.

I had forgotten about this salad and it took a trip to the Rockaways to remind me. It’s good to visit different neighborhoods, especially when you get there via a lovely boat ride, when it includes a walk on a beautiful beach, when it brings to mind the great Ramones’ song and when you wind up eating some delicious food that can be replicated at home. “Rock rock Rockaway Beach ….”

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Filed Under: Places, Recipes, Salads, Vegetables

Cool as a Cucumber Salad

August 8, 2017

Kirby cucumbers with tomatoes, arugula, walnuts and pesto vinaigrette
Salad bowl by Nick Joerling

Cucumber salad is easy to make and to vary and can even help keep us cool. Cucumbers are plentiful from mid-summer into the fall and have enough crunch and body to be the star ingredient in a main course or side salad. Since they are mostly water, they are refreshing to eat, especially in summer. Like zucchini, cukes can grow large quickly and become too seedy to be tasty. Try to buy slimmer, smaller cucumbers – they may have less seeds and more crispy flesh. If you end up with a giant cuke, just scoop out the seeds.

Japanese cucumbers at the 79th Street Sunday Greenmarket

Solo cucumbers with a vinaigrette make a refreshing lunch or dinner salad but for a little more interest, add herbs. Dill combines deliciously with cukes, as does mint or basil. (I am not a tarragon fan but if you like it, it also works). All kinds of vinaigrettes dress cucumbers well from a simple oil and vinegar to a citrus, berry or mustard base. You could even go all out and use a yogurt, ranch or blue cheese dressing – the cukes can handle it. The most striking presentation of cucumber salad I ever saw was at our favorite ramen restaurant, Ippudo. There they overlap cucumber slices down a long rectangular plate and drizzle with a spicy chili dressing. So simple but appealing and tasty!

Kirby cucumbers from J & A Farm at the Friday 97th Street Greenmarket

Many vegetables pair well with cucumbers including peppers of all colors both sweet and spicy, radishes, jicama, carrots, red onions and lettuce. Some fruits are especially good with cukes, including citrus, tomatoes, avocado, plums and berries. One of my all time favorite salads combines cucumbers with pineapple, mint and lime juice – a simple but surprisingly delicious variation.

Cucumbers with yogurt, toasted cumin seeds, lime juice, salt and fresh mint
Batter bowl by Nick Joerling

The most basic cucumber salad can be fortified to become a main course salad with cooked chicken, shrimp, ham or bacon, toasted walnuts, seeds or pistachios. You might serve a plain, dressed cucumber salad alongside almost anything – fish, chicken, smoked salmon or avocado toast. It makes a tasty sandwich, especially with the addition of a slice or two of cheese, green apple and walnuts, and packs well for a picnic.

I admit there are hot nights when all I do is cut up some cucumbers into spears or rounds and call it a side salad. But if slicing, dicing or spiralizing a few cukes and tossing with herbs and dressing is not too much work, you will be rewarded with a pretty, cooling and satisfying salad.

Spiralized cucumbers with radishes, scallions, pumpkin seeds and vinaigrette
Bowl by Nick Joerling

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Filed Under: Recipes, Salads, Vegetables

Don’t Feel Like Cooking? Do It Anyway – Just Keep It Simple

July 27, 2017

Cabbage and carrot salad with cilantro and pumpkin seeds
Stoneware plate by Maishe Dickman

Cooking has finally become a choice. There is so much prepared food available that we can simply buy or order meals instead cooking. Sometimes that is fine. In fact, sometimes it is the solution. Fish sticks and potato puffs with a bag of frozen vegetables, pizza or Chinese to-go can make a busy week so much easier. But eating that way often gets tired and boring. And too much of it, with too much salt and flour and bad oil and sugar, can leave us feeling lousy both emotionally and physically.

In the New York Times this week, Sam Sifton wrote about cooking something rather than ordering in as a way to feel a little happier. I am with him. I am all for occasional take out meals and understand the need to grab and go from time to time. But, as Sifton points out, “whatever you put together will be palliative”. The smallest effort of making an omelet or sautéing some vegetables or smashing some avocado into a basic guacamole will be more meditative and healthier than anything you could pick up pre-made. You and the people you cook for will feel the love.

Easy guacamole
Porcelain bowl by Larry Bush

Historically, cooking took lots of time. It still can. But we can choose to cook more simply and efficiently and still come up with satisfying and nourishing meals. We can even use some convenience food as a base to make preparing a meal easier. Sometimes just thinking of what to make is the obstacle to cooking. It is summer and you probably don’t want to turn on your oven. Below are some of my go-to, easy to prepare hot weather suppers. You know them so this list is just meant as a reminder. If you have a grill, fire it up! If you stock a few canned (or glassed) things, eggs, seeds and nuts, you will always have meal fixings. Just add some fresh vegetables and you’ll have food on the table in minutes. Just make that small effort. You’ll feel better. 

Chiogga Beets simply boiled and sliced
Plate by Mary Barringer

EASY PEASY MEALS

  • Guacamole with carrot and celery sticks or tortilla chips (just smashed avocado with pressed garlic, lime juice and salt will suffice)
  • Sprats (smoked tiny fish like sardines but tastier) with sautéed zucchini or summer squash and crackers or toast
  • Salmon Salad with sliced red and green peppers and celery and sweet potato chips
  • Cheese and/or Chorizo or your favorite sausage or with olives, any crudités or crackers
  • Hummus with cut up raw vegetables and pita or corn chips
  • Scrambled eggs with herbs and greens (just sauté greens first and then add eggs), perhaps in a tortilla or on toast
  • Simple green salad with cut hard boiled eggs or diced rotisserie chicken. Maybe add sliced beets (you can keep aseptic packages of beets in your pantry) to add interest
  • Regular or gluten-free pasta (don’t over cook it), frozen peas and and pesto
  • A quick stir fry with onions, broccoli, carrots, leftover rice and nuts or your choice of protein
  • A shredded cabbage and carrot salad with cilantro, za’atar, toasted pumpkin or sunflower seeds, peanuts or baked tofu and a sesame oil or tahini dressing with potato chips
  • Sautéed scallops or shrimp with either a tossed salad or sautéed or steamed greens
  • Romaine greens with cut pear, blue cheese (or any kind you like), walnuts and your favorite vinaigrette
  • Defrosted cooked shrimp tossed with sautéed garlic and vegetables, rice if you like
  • Romaine leaves with tuna, salmon, egg or tofu salad
  • Sliced beets (those same packaged beets if you don’t want to turn on your stove) with shaved Parmesan or Manchego (or no cheese) pieces of orange, apple or pear, parsley or cilantro and toasted walnuts or pistachios with a citrus vinaigrette
  • Sliced ripe tomatoes with your choice of (any or all) cucumber, red, green, yellow or purple bell peppers, fresh mozzarella and avocado with fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of a good balsamic vinegar and (optional) olive oil sprinkled with salt and pepper (takes about 10 minutes to get on the table
Caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes
Plate by Bandana Pottery – Michael Hunt and Naomi Dalglish

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Filed Under: Recipes, Salads, Vegetables

Salad for President Gets My Vote!

July 12, 2017

Salad for President
by Julia Sherman

Julia Sherman is more than a good writer and her cookbook, Salad for President, is more than a collection of recipes. She is an artist, interviewer, gardener and cook and her book is an eclectic mix of artist biographies and interviews, charming illustrations, appealing recipes and, by the way, some pretty nice handmade plates and bowls. The recipes are from both Sherman and the artists with whom she talks. Included are the well known like William Wegman and Laurie Anderson but so are many others who I didn’t know but with whom I was happy to become familiar.

An introduction to two of the artists who are interviewed and contribute a recipe to the book
From Salad for President

The biographic essays, interviews and ingredient discussions are good reading. But more than a good read, Salad for President (from the blog of the same name) is a cookbook full of interesting but not too complicated recipes. When there are exotic ingredients involved, like labneh, like thick yogurt, or myoga, a wild ginger flower, she tells you where to find it or how to make it or if you can do without it. Sherman explains ingredients (like pomegranate molasses), discusses technique (like shredding cabbage finely enough so it fluffs) and offers helpful indices   (grouping recipes by season, ingredients, dressings and one on types of greens). Rather than a small index of artisans without any information, just pagination, I wish she had captions with her photographs of bowls and plates, but that is a minor quibble.

One of the charming drawings from Salad for President

There are other wonderful artist-centric cookbooks out there (The Artists’ and Writers’ Cookbook, Cooking for Artists, Artists’ Recipes, etc.) but Salad for President is both fun to read and to browse and full of recipes I actually want to try. Here salad is art, metaphor, practical technique and a source of inspiration for conversation, creativity and connection as well as, at its core, some delicious looking meals. Whether you buy it or take it out of the library, I am sure you will enjoy many dimensions of this artful book.

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Filed Under: books, cookbooks, Salads, sauces and dressings

Cooking Cool During the Summer – Just Bean the Heat!

June 20, 2017

Summer Bean Salad
Porcelain Terrine by Andrew Martin

It is officially summer now and that means different things to different people. Summer can be a slower, more casual time of year when you take time off to lounge by a pool, walk in the park or seek out a beach. Food wise, it can be a time for barbecues and picnics. For me, summer means finding ways to beat the heat and that includes the food and drink I consume as well as the way I prepare it for my family.

Because we live in New York, charcoal grilling is out but I might pull out the electric grill (the old George Forman still works) or a cast iron grill pan and toss on some marinated chicken or shrimp to get the flavor of summer bbq. No long roasting for me in the summer, either. In fact, I rarely turn on my oven, opting instead for a quick stir fry, pasta or a completely cold meal. I don’t even use my toaster oven much since if I turn it on while the air conditioner is on, I will blow a fuse – literally! Meat tends to make me feel even warmer so I concentrate on lots of salads, including light grain, bean and cut vegetable salads, and, naturally, just salad greens. The farmers markets are bursting with gorgeous early summer produce that is easily turned into simple, cooling meals (like sugar snap peas, asparagus, garlic scrapes and basil, for pesto). I try to concentrate on foods, mostly vegetables but also beans and fish and seafood, with lower calorie density – they are less warming so they help keep us cooler. And the things that heat you up might not be what you would suspect. For example, you might think that iced coffee is refreshing but the caffeine in it is thermogenic and will make you warmer. If you want to keep cool, make your second one a decaf or stick with water!

Geranium (1926) by George Sheeler at the Whitney

Many summer foods require no cooking, like guacamole, hummus, all kinds of berries and melons, carrot or beet salads and an assembled mezze or cheese board. Cold soups are refreshing and can be made in a blender (think gazpacho and blueberry soup). One of my summer favorites is a bean salad, usually with a vinaigrette and as many vegetables and herbs as I can manage to incorporate. I tend to stay away from cumin and ginger based dressings as they, too, are warming. Most of the time I cook my own beans for a recipe but in summer a few cans of beans suffice; When dressed, you won’t really notice any difference. Feel free to use whatever type of bean you like, add the vegetables you enjoy, toss in leftover chicken, shrimp, rice or cooked veggies and use your favorite dressing. My recipe is just a guideline. After all, the goal is to keep cool. If its all too much effort, make a cold drink and put up your feet. Happy summer!

NO COOK BEAN SALAD

  • 3-4 cups cooked beans (kidney, cannellini, pinto or whatever you prefer)
  • 1/2-1 cup finely chopped red onion or scallions, white and green parts
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill or 1T dried dill (or cilantro, mint or basil)
  • 1/2-1 cup finely chopped celery (red or green or jalapeño pepper would also be good)
  • Big handful of chopped parsley
  • Bite-sizes pieces of leftover cooked chicken, shrimp, rice or vegetables, optional

Vinaigrette:

  • 1 tsp minced garlic
  • 2 T fresh lemon juice (about 1 small lemon)
  • 2 T vinegar (could be rice, sherry, wine or balsamic)
  • 2 T umeboshi plum vinegar – optional but really adds flavor (found with Japanese products)
  • 4 T flavorful olive oil
  • Big pinch of salt
  • Big pinch of pepper

Whisk together, pour over salad ingredients and toss. The salad will benefit from a few hours in the marinade.

Can be served cold or at room temperature.

Once in a while we get a rainbow after a summer storm

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Filed Under: leftovers, Recipes, Salads, sauces and dressings, Vegetables

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Spring Market on Columbus Ave
West 97th St Farmers' Market

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Here you will find recipes and ideas for easy to make and tasty meals, sources for interesting dinnerware on which to serve those meals and resources for ingredients, classes and food related travel. My goal is to make daily cooking simpler and to inspire you to try different recipes beyond the handful you already make repeatedly. I hope that relaying my experiences will enhance yours. Follow along and let me know about your own cooking and food journeys.

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