Recipes | A Good Dish

Make A Fresh Caprese Salad With Citrus For A Special Mid-Winter Treat

February 13, 2021

Winter Caprese salad with mint
Wood fired side tray by Liz Lurie

Do you love a caprese salad—ripe tomatoes, mozzarella and basil in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette? Do you ever crave it when tomatoes are not in season? I do but can’t bring myself to buy expensive hothouse tomatoes in the middle of February. I have a solution that doesn’t include pulpy winter tomatoes and might be the perfect Valentine’s treat.

Navel orange, ruby grapefruit and Sumo orange
all work to make a winter Caprese salad

I have seen tomato, mozzarella and basil salads dressed up with slices of orange in magazine spreads but I think the oranges (or grapefruit) can completely replace the tomatoes. Substitute fresh mint for the basil alongside the fresh mozzarella and you will have a surprisingly delicious mid-winter dish. A little drizzle of a good balsamic vinegar and olive oil brings it all alive. You could even punctuate it with some briny or salty olives, grated fresh ginger, nuts or arugula mixed in or on the side. Somehow the fresh mint complements the citrus similarly to the way basil pairs with tomato. You can cut the oranges into slices, segments (also known as supremes) or chunks. If you cut the mozzarella in a similar way, you’ll get both in each bite. This salad might become a new breakfast favorite.

Cut your mozzarella to a size and shape to match your citrus

Citrus fruits are at their best right now—fresh, juicy and inexpensive. Navel, Sumo or Cara Cara oranges, pomelos, mandarins, tangelos and grapefruit all work. Greenhouse mint is available year round and lasts a long time in the fridge. Fresh mozzarella is sold even in chain grocery stores. With all the components easily accessible, why not try? Pull out a favorite plate or platter and compose a winter caprese which will satisfy your eye and your stomach without much effort.

Caprese with oranges and grapefruit
Wood fired nub bowls by Liz Lurie

WINTER CAPRESE

3 oranges or 2 grapefruit, peeled removing pith, seeded and sliced
1 ball or log of fresh mozzarella, sliced
Handful of fresh mint leaves
Balsamic vinegar
Olive Oil
Black pepper

Optional-black olives, grated ginger, pine nuts, almonds or walnuts, bed of arugula)

Slice citrus and layer each slice with a thin layer of cheese.

Drizzle with balsamic and oil and sprinkle with pepper.

Place a mint leaf on each slice and strew a few extras on the plate.

Leftovers will taste good the next day but you may need to add fresh mint.

Undersides of Liz Lurie’s wood fired nub bowls
Flashing slip over dark clay body

Udon With Vegetables Might Be Your New Go To Comfort Recipe

February 4, 2021

Udon with Broccoli, Mushrooms and Garlic
Stoneware Serving Dish by Nick Joerling

There are so many different kinds of Japanese noodles and so many ways to prepare them. Ramen, a thin wheat noodle, is most commonly eaten in soup. Soba noodles, at least part and sometimes all buckwheat flour, are perhaps the most versatile, used for dipping in sauces, in soup, chilled and dressed with a sesame sauce, pan fried or as a side for tempura. Somen, a very thin white wheat noodle, is served chilled to dip in a sauce or warm in soup. Udon, a thicker, wheat flour noodle, is most commonly served with a dipping sauce or in soup but may be pan fried, my favorite preparation. There are also yam, rice and potato starch noodles, all without gluten, used in soup or for dipping.

Sautéed garlic mashed with a fork in the pan

I’ve always preferred soba over udon, choosing buckwheat over white wheat flour for a more robust taste, when eating Japanese noodles that are not ramen. But over the years I’ve warmed to udon, especially now that there are some whole wheat varieties. Like most noodles—eastern or western—udon is best when it is not overcooked so it maintains a toothsome chew.

Mushrooms cooking with the smashed garlic

The udon recipe I like best is one I learned at the now defunct Natural Gourmet Cookery School (RIP!) and this is my adaptation of that recipe. It combines eastern (udon and umeboshi plum vinegar) and western (Italian herbs and olive oil) ingredients with those used in both the East and West (garlic, mushroom, broccoli) so it’s quite a global dish. Easy to make and loved by kids as well as adults, it is good leftover either cold or warmed up. Do yourself a favor and make a double recipe so you can serve it again in a day or two, if you can resist eating it straight out of the fridge before then.

Udon with Vegetables and Italian Herbs
Stoneware Serving Dish by Nick Joerling

UDON PRIMAVERA

8 oz dry udon noodles (or soba or even spaghetti)
2 Tbs olive oil (more if you find it too dry at the end)
1 bunch broccoli (3+ cups bite sized pieces)
1 head garlic, separated into cleaned whole cloves
3 cups sliced mushrooms, Cremini or any mix you like
1 Tbs dried oregano
1 tsp dried basil
1 tsp dried thyme
Pinch salt and pepper
2 Tbs umeboshi plum vinegar (more to taste but sparingly)
Put up a big pot of water to boil (for udon).

Blanche broccoli in boiling water 2 minutes, scoop out, drain and set aside.

Heat oil in a large sauté pan and add whole garlic cloves.

When the garlic begins to soften, smash each clove with a fork, breaking it down into strands.

Add mushrooms, pinch of salt and pepper and continue to cook until mushrooms lose water. Add herbs and broccoli and cook about 2 minutes longer until all are well mixed and cooked.

While cooking vegetables, cook udon in the boiled broccoli water, stirring several times until al dente. Drain and add to cooked vegetables. Add vinegar to all and toss well. Taste and add more vinegar or oil, if needed. Serve immediately.

Leftovers keep well and can be eaten at room temperature or reheated.

Serves 4.

Spanish Tortilla – Delicious Any Time And You Probably Have The Fixings On Hand!

January 19, 2021

Spanish Tortilla
Porcelain plate by Jen Allen

Spanish tortilla is such an easy and tasty dish, I don’t know why I don’t think of it more often when planning meals. It can be prepared in advance and the recipe can be varied to include alternative ingredients. Because it is served at room temperature, the tortilla can sit out for a few hours without refrigeration, making it a perfect buffet or party food, (although we still don’t need to consider that for many months).

A traditional tortilla Espanola (no there are not corn or flour tortillas involved) is a potato frittata or omelet cooked in a very specific way with quite a lot of olive oil. You simmer the potatoes in oil until very soft. Then you drain the oil, add the egg mixture, cook until set, hold your breath and flip and cook some more. A good (ceramic or other non-scratching surface) non-stick pan or well-seasoned cast iron skillet makes the flipping all that much easier because eggs tend to really stick. The traditional with potato is fantastic but variations are easy. Tortilla will last in the fridge for a few days and travels well for a picnic or lunchbox. Every bar we visited in Spain, in the before days of travel, had their own tortilla sitting on or behind the counter at the ready. My brother-in-law, who studied in Spain and remembered his home stay mother’s version fondly, taught himself to make tortillas last year and encouraged me to try. At first, I was appalled at the amount of oil required but much of it remains in the pan. If you get in the habit of making tortillas, you can save the oil to reuse each time and enjoy an intensified flavor. I used Seamus Mullen’s recipe as a starting point and then varied the amounts to suit my taste.

Tortilla variation with mushrooms, dill and greens

Many cultures make some version of eggs with vegetables, starchy or green. Think of French omelets, Italian frittatas, and Persian kuku (like a green herb frittata). Tortilla is the Spanish version and the way you cook it in oil and flip it is what distinguishes it (frittata goes in the oven briefly to finish). Making one is a great way to use up leftover potatoes and vegetables and doesn’t need cheese like the Italian and some French versions. Perhaps try the traditional recipe first and then experiment with your favorite ingredients. A little smoked paprika enlivens the flavor but plain is delicious. My current obsessions are mushrooms, leeks, leafy greens and fresh herbs so my next tortilla will include some or all of these. One time I added some shredded zucchini just to get rid of it! And don’t be afraid of the oil – most of it is left over and some olive oil is supposed to be good for us!

SPANISH STYLE TORTILLA

2 cups olive oil
3 large waxy potatoes, sliced thinly (about 3 cups)
1 medium onion, sliced thinly (about 1 cup)
salt and pepper to taste
6 eggs, beaten

Heat the oil in a medium frying pan. Sloped sides and a non-stick surface are very helpful.

Add onions, potatoes and a sprinkle of salt and cook at a low simmer until the potatoes get quite soft. Drain the potatoes in a strainer, catching the oil in a bowl. Cool oil and reserve to use again. Salt and pepper the potato mixture to taste and then stir into the beaten eggs.

Add 1-2 TBs of oil back to the pan and when heated add the egg mixture to the pan. Stir occasionally until the eggs start to set up and then lower the heat and cook undisturbed until the bottom is cooked through. (Peek under with a spatula to see if browning and set). Remove from heat, cover with a plate (larger than the pan), press on the plate with one hand to keep pan covered and flip. Jiggle the pan to make sure egg is all released onto the plate. If there is any egg left in the pan, use a spatula to remove and place it on the cooked part already on the plate.

Add a little more oil to the pan and slide the egg/potato mixture back into the pan, cooked side visible. Cook until the bottom is also set and then cover and flip once more to make sure the whole thing is set and edges rounded. Remove from heat and slide onto a plate. Let it all sit for a few minutes to finish cooking inside off heat. Slice into wedges and enjoy warm or at room temperature.

Brown stoneware mugs by Jen Allen from her website.

During the pandemic, Jen has also been making beautiful and comfortable masks for sale on her website.

Baked Beans Made With Black Eyed Peas – Because We Need All The Luck We Can Get In The New Year!

December 30, 2020

Baked Beans Made With Black Eyed Peas
Handled Red Stoneware Soup Bowls by Eshelman Pottery

Hoppin’ John, a bean dish made with black eyed peas, is traditionally eaten in the Southern United States on New Year’s Day to bring good luck and prosperity for the coming year. My husband and I have never been big fans of black eyed peas but we eat them happily when offered on a New Year’s buffet because who doesn’t need a little prosperity. Given that we need all the luck we can get this year, I was determined to find a way to cook them that we would enjoy.

Both of us love baked beans so I prepared them my favorite way but substituted black eyed peas. I am not talking about the anemic Heinz version of tomato-y tinned beans that both our fathers loved. Homemade baked beans can be savory and sweet and really delicious. I spiced up my recipe with ginger and cayenne so it is not only tasty but also warming on these cold days. Lots of substitutions are possible. Prepared yellow mustard can stand in for dry (2 TBs instead of 2 tsps), brown sugar or maple syrup can replace the molasses and ketchup or tomato sauce can be used instead of tomato paste. If you don’t like thyme or don’t want to use Worcestershire sauce, just leave them out. And if you don’t want to soak and cook dried peas, just use canned. In fact, if you don’t have or really don’t want to use black eyed peas, just use navy peas, Alubia Bianca or any small white beans.

A different sofrito with onion, garlic, ginger and jalapeño

Black eyed peas (also known as cowpeas) are quite nutritious with good amounts of minerals, fiber and folate. When baked as in this recipe, they can last in the refrigerator for 3-4 days or be frozen and reheated weeks later. Cook once and eat several times! Providing warmth, multiple meals and nutrition alongside the hope for prosperity, baked black eyed peas are a pretty great start to the year.

Wishing you all a happier New Year in which, hopefully, we’ll be able to gather and be together again!

BAKED BLACK EYED PEAS

1 lb. dry black eyed peas, soaked, cooked and drained (reserve cooking liquid)
2 TBs olive, avocado or grape seed oil
1 onion, diced (1 heaping cup)
2-3 cloves garlic, minced (1 TBs)
1 small knob of fresh ginger, minced (1 tsp-1 TBs as you prefer)
1 fresh poblano or jalapeño pepper, diced (or just a green pepper will do) – optional
2 tsp dry mustard powder or 2 TBs prepared yellow mustard
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp dried thyme
1/4 tsp cayenne
3 TBs tomato paste or 1/4 cup ketchup
3 TBs apple cider vinegar
2 TBs soy sauce or tamari
3/4 – 1 cup molasses (depending on how sweet you like it. Start with less and add more at the end if you need it)
1 1/2 cup bean cooking liquid (or stock)
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce (optional)
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Heat oil in a medium-large Dutch oven or bean pot over medium heat.

Add onion and sauté a few minutes until it starts to wilt.

Add garlic, ginger and pepper, if using, and sauté another 1-2 minutes.

Add mustard powder, paprika, thyme and cayenne and sauté briefly to toast.

Add tomato paste, vinegar, soy sauce, molasses, bean liquid, cinnamon stick and Worcestershire. Stir and bring to a simmer. Turn off heat and add cooked beans. Stir well, cover and bake for 1 hour, removing the lid for the last 10 minutes if still very liquid.

Serve warm. Great with cornbread, polenta or grits, black bread, baked potatoes or toast and greens for a complete meal or serve with sausages for an rib-sticking entree.

Keep leftovers in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. Freezes well. Serves 6-8 for a main course.

Food And Drink Are One More Way To Stay Connected In These Short Days Of Winter

December 20, 2020

Wine and Vermouth are easy pours
Earthenware cups by Scott Lykens

The dark days are upon us. Not only is it the darkest week of the year with the shortest days and longest nights, but we are isolating in the midst of the pandemic. Usually this is a cheerful time of year with musical events, parties and window gazing. On a normal solstice night, we would be making a stone soup, lighting tables full of candles and concocting a festive drink to share with our neighbors. We would be going to studio sales, singing along to the tubas at Rockefeller Center, having friends over for meals and getting ready to travel to an annual family gathering. This year we can’t physically celebrate together so we have to find other ways.

Low Rider
Earthenware cup by Scott Lykens

Monday is the winter solstice, the beginning of the days getting longer. Even if we have to light the darkness and physically at a distance, we can include our people. We have technology on our side – phone calls, emails, texts, FaceTime and WhatsApp are just a few of the ways to connect and celebrate in a contagious world. But how to share a meal? Cook extra and drop off a care package to friends or family if they are nearby. Last week, for example, I made a big pot of spicy posole and packed up a few portions alongside some homemade focaccia for friends who live nearby. They gifted us some delicious turkey chili in return. My mother-in-law, while ordering dinner from a restaurant for herself, thoughtfully also arranged to have some dinner delivered to our son. My cousin in LA has socially distanced drinks weekly with her condo neighbors. Even across or in another country, you can send out a recipe, make it separately and eat together virtually. Bake your favorite fruitcake (yes, some are delicious) or cookies and ship them to someone you miss. Call and have coffee or a cocktail with a pal, colleague or relative. I’ve been having an early morning coffee with a friend in Bangkok while she has her first beer of the evening on a regular basis. It isn’t as satisfying as really being together, but it is better than nothing. And this year is all about good enough, right? Connection—written, aural or virtual—is a way to brighten the dark.

Happy solstice!

EASY WINTER DRINKS TO SHARE