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A Good Dish

making food simpler

1- Invite Friends Over 2- Make a Pot of Soup 3- Plan How to Move Forward

November 16, 2016

Curried Lentil Soup Porcelain bowl by Andy Brayman
Curried Lentil Soup
Porcelain bowl by Andy Brayman

I meet more or less monthly with a group of women organized by one friend who knew the core group primarily, but not exclusively, from her children’s schools or activities. It is a varied group of teachers, artists, writers, attorneys, non-profit administrators, media producers and art historians – a not atypical cross-section of smart, engaged and progressive city dwellers. We usually meet in a neighborhood bar or restaurant but this week we were meeting at my apartment – coincidentally at a moment when the comfort of a home and of home cooked food meant more than usual.

In the wake of the electoral earthquake to which we woke up last week, we all need soothing of one sort or another. I thought about making a typical comfort food like pasta or grilled cheese. But because so many people are watching their carb and gluten intake, I opted for a vegan soup and salad.

The recipe for the soup I chose is an expansion of a curried lentil recipe from Julia Turshen’s new book, Small Victories: Recipes, Advice and Hundreds of Ideas for Home-Cooking Triumphs. I added some ingredients, changed the amounts of others and morphed a lentil dish into a soup. You can add additional vegetables to the leftover soup or it can be cooked down to serve over rice. The vegetables in the recipe are optional but add a lot of texture and nutrients. This fragrant soup tastes even better if you make it the day before you want to serve it. Just be careful to rewarm it over low heat as it will easily scorch (yes, I know this from experience!) Feel free to fiddle with the amounts, spices and ingredients yourself until you come up with a taste that pleases you. The additional vegetables are optional but add a lot of texture and nutrients. I find this soup quite soothing and fortifying, feelings we can all use a little more of stumbling into the social and political unthinkable that lies ahead.

Curried Lentil Soup with Cilantro Bowl by Andy Brayman
Curried Lentil Soup with Cilantro
Bowl by Andy Brayman

Curried Red Lentil Soup

  • 3 TBs olive, avocado or grape seed oil
  • 3 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 3″ knob of ginger, minced (about 1/4 cup)
  • 1 red onion, minced (about 1 cup)
  • 2 tsps cumin seeds
  • 2 tsps ground turmeric (or grate fresh if you have it)
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp cayenne
  • 2 cups split red lentils, washed
  • 1 can(4oz) of chopped green chilies
  • A big handful of cilantro, stems and leaves chopped separately
  • 2 cans(13.5oz) coconut milk (I used one full fat and one reduced fat)
  • 3 cans of water (use the empty coconut milk can)
  • 3 carrots, diced (optional)
  • 3 stalks celery, sliced thinly or diced (optional)
  • 1-2 cup small pieces of cauliflower (optional)
  • 1 cup frozen peas (optional)

 In a medium stockpot, heat the oil and add the garlic, onion, ginger and spices.

Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to keep from sticking, until soft, about 5-6 minutes.

Add the chilies, lentils, coconut milt, water, cilantro stems and 1 tsp of salt.

Bring to a bowl and then lower to a simmer, cooking for about 10 minutes.

Add vegetables (except peas) and cook about 10 minutes more. If you want to throw in a handful of a green like arugula or spinach with the frozen peas at the end, do it just a minute before turning off heat.

Serve with chopped cilantro, lime wedges and crumbled sweet potato chips.

Serves 4-6 as a main course and 6-8 as a starter.

Sunlight contains all colors
Sunlight contains all colors

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Filed Under: Recipes, Soups, Vegetables Tagged With: Comfort Food, Soup, Vegan

One Way to Cope with the Bitter Taste of a Devastating Election

November 9, 2016

An equal parts Manhattan Wood fired Shigaraki cup and pourer by Kenzo Ozawa
An equal parts Manhattan
Wood fired Shigaraki cup and pourer by Kenzo Ozawa

I am stunned. Shocked. In disbelief. How could anger, hate, misogyny, racism and greed triumph in this country? How is it possible that the evil “he who shall not be named” is going to be POTUS and sweep all his Roy Cohn-styled bullies, thugs and liars into power with him? It is going to be a time of mourning and coming to grips with the reality, then regrouping and ultimately strategizing a way forward.

 Once we understand that we live in a divided country soon to be run by divisive, selfish and backward looking goons and will have to push back in every way we are able, what can we do to feel better in the moment? We can try to comfort ourselves and each other. We can commiserate and soothe our families, friends and colleagues. We can make vats of soup, invite people to our homes and feed them. We can raise a glass together and struggle to figure out what comes next.

 With voting behind us, I thought I would be posting ways to celebrate rather than gasping for air. Just getting through this long, long election season was punishing and I was so ready for a celebration not a funeral. But since it is like a death, perhaps we should hold a wake and have a stiff drink. I am usually a wine or beer drinker but an occasion like this calls for whiskey!

Crown Royal Canadian Whiskey Old fashioned but reliable
Crown Royal Canadian Whiskey
Old fashioned but reliable

 There are many brands of bourbon and rye, with new distilleries popping up everywhere. Whiskey doesn’t have to be from the red state of Kentucky to be called bourbon, just made in America and with a certain percentage corn mash. One of my favorites is an old timer – Old Forester – a touch sweet, very smooth and reliable. But since it is from Kentucky, the home turf of the nasty, fork tongued majority leader, today I would choose Crown Royal, the Canadian brand of blended whiskey favored by Hillary Clinton, for mixing a cocktail. The rye I prefer is a newer brand but also very tasty for sipping and more reasonably priced than most – Redemption Rye.

 While there are seemingly endless varieties of mixed whiskey drinks possible, there are a few to which I am partial. When we have a party, I like to mix a pitcher so people can help themselves. A whiskey sour is always festive but today I am leaning more toward an equal parts Manhattan (recipe below), preferring the classic combination of whiskey and sweet vermouth that speaks of the harmony of disparate parts. I recently discovered the Atxa brand of vermouth – it is delicious, even by itself.

 For drinking following the election, the most appropriately named drink I’ve heard of but haven’t tried yet is the Snake Bite Shooter, a combination of Yukon Jack whiskey (a Canadian brand of blended whiskey with honey) and Rose’s lime juice (although it seems some versions contain tequila). It is apparently so strong that some bartenders refuse to serve it – enough said. Please don’t misunderstand – I am not suggesting a drunken stupor but merely a drink to take off the edge. Then we can gather ourselves back together and move forward.

Manhattan with a cherry and a twist Cup by Kenzo Ogawa
Manhattan with a cherry and a twist
Cup by Kenzo Ogawa

Balanced Manhattan

  • 1 part Sweet Vermouth
  • 1 part Bourbon or Rye Whiskey
  • 1 dash bitters

 Stir or shake together and pour over ice with a whiskey marinated cherry and a lemon or orange peel or slice.

What are you mixing?

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Filed Under: Drinks

Pumpkin Pudding, Not Pie, for Thanksgiving This Year

November 2, 2016

Pumpkin pudding with nuts, seeds and currants Carved mugs by Matthew Metz
Pumpkin pudding with nuts, seeds and currants
Carved mugs by Matthew Metz

Although the main star of Thanksgiving dinner is usually turkey, the food I look forward to most is pumpkin pie. This may seem unusual as pie crust is far down on my list of reasons to eat simple carbs. On the other hand, the silky pumpkin pudding that fills a fall pie is a good enough excuse for me to eat sweets! Something about the combination of pumpkin custard and spices just hits the spot.

Because I don’t care about the crust, I simply make a straightforward pumpkin filling, substituting maple syrup for sugar. Yes, maple syrup is still a sugar but a naturally occurring one with some minerals. At least, that is what I tell myself to justify occasional use! I’ve noticed that not eating sugar helps relieve my joint and muscle pain but every once in a while it’s festive to partake in a sweet to celebrate an occasion. After a big meal, I rarely feel like a heavy dessert but it is satisfying to have something with which to finish. There have been Thanksgiving meals we have ended with applesauce and molasses cookies but I think we will have pudding this year. And, as Anthony Bourdain suggests, there is always cheese.

Baked Pumpkin Pudding
Baked Pumpkin Pudding

This is the basic recipe that comes on every label of canned pumpkin with a few changes. I used maple syrup instead of sugar, added some spices and an egg, and substituted organic evaporated milk instead of cream or half milk/half cream. I tried the recipe with home baked butternut squash (2 cups) and I thought it was tastier than the canned pumpkin, if slightly more labor intensive. Next time you are baking a squash, just cook an extra to make this pudding. I also tried buttermilk, cream, sweetened condensed milk (I reduced the syrup to 1TB) and coconut milk with mixed results. The buttermilk version was tangy and a little too watery while the one with coconut milk was tasted good but might have been better with another egg to help it firm up. The batches with cream and sweetened condensed milk were denser and delicious, as you might imagine, but rich for my palette. I prefer to save the cream to whip separately with a little bourbon or vanilla to dollop on top of the pudding.

Organic pumpkin comes in cans and shelf stable boxes
Organic pumpkin comes in cans and shelf stable boxes
Organic evaporated and sweetened condensed milk is now widely available
Organic evaporated and sweetened condensed milk is now widely available

My favorite version, with evaporated milk, is mildly sweetened and highly spiced. In addition to dessert, it is delicious for breakfast (maybe even better because it firms up overnight in the refrigerator) with chopped walnuts, dates or raisins, chia, hemp and ground flax seeds. You can make it in individual ramekins (I don’t have any so I used small ceramic bowls and cups) or in a single pie plate or Pyrex. You can bake it without the water bath but it won’t have the same custardy consistency. If you put it in when you take out your turkey, it will be ready and warm for dessert. Or you can make it ahead and keep it overnight to stiffen up in the refrigerator.

Unbaked Pumpkin Pudding in Cups and Bowls in a water bath ready to go into the oven
Unbaked Pumpkin Pudding in Cups and Bowls
in a water bath ready to go into the oven
Baked Pumpkin Puddings
Baked Pumpkin Puddings

If you really want to make a pie-like dessert but without crust, you can layer the pudding with crumbled ginger cookies (try the hard-to-stop-eating Tate’s gluten-free version (or the Trader Joe’s Ginger Chunk knock off) or even graham crackers. Add lightly toasted walnuts or pumpkin seeds, chopped dates, raisins or currants and bourbon or vanilla scented or plain whipped cream or yogurt to create a lush parfait.

Pumpkin Pudding Parfait with crumbled ginger cookies, walnuts, whipped cream and nutmeg Glass Compote Dish by Fossil Glass/Christina Salusti
Pumpkin Pudding Parfait
with crumbled ginger cookies, walnuts, whipped cream and nutmeg
Glass Compote Dish by Fossil Glass/Christina Salusti

PUMPKIN PUDDING

Blend together until smooth:

  • 1 can (15oz.) organic pumpkin (or 2 cups baked and mashed pumpkin or squash)
  • 1 can (12oz.) organic evaporated milk
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp bourbon (optional)
  • 1/3 cup maple syrup
  • 3 eggs
  • 2 tsps cinnamon
  • 1 tsp ground ginger
  • 1/2 tsp fresh grated nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp ground cloves
  • 1/4 tsp turmeric
  • 1 shake cayenne (optional)
  • 1 tsp grated organic orange peel (optional)

Pour into a glass pie pan or 6 6oz ramekins. If using ramekins, set in a baking dish and pour in boiling water half way up the ramekins, being careful not to splash the puddings.

Put in a preheated 375 degree oven and bake until puffed and browned, 30 minutes-1 hour depending on size.

Serve warm or cold with a dollop of whipped cream and sprinkle of nuts.

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Filed Under: Breakfast, dessert

Sharing the Cooking: An Easy Vegetable Dish to Transport

October 26, 2016

Broccoli with Garlic, Currants, Chili Flakes and Pine Nuts Flameware Casserole Dish by Robbie Lobell
Broccoli with Garlic, Currants, Chili Flakes and Pine Nuts
Flameware Casserole Dish by Robbie Lobell

We were invited to dinner at a friend’s house last week and when I asked what we could bring, she said she would love a green vegetable. Of course, I thought, there can never be enough vegetables! Sounds simple, right? A vegetable is one of the easiest parts of a meal to cook but one to transport takes a little forethought. You don’t want to arrive with ingredients and be disruptive by starting to cook in the midst of your host’s preparations. You want a dish that is ready to put on the table.

I know lots of people want their food to be served piping hot. Not moi. I don’t care one bit, especially with an unsauced vegetable dish, if it is hot, warm, room temperature or even cold. I think many foods, like cruciferous vegetables, taste even better at room temp than hot. But temperature is a consideration, since you can’t really travel and produce a steaming hot dish on arrival. Planning on bringing a room temperature recipe is most likely to succeed.

If it were springtime, I might make and bring a platter of steamed or roasted asparagus, always well liked and travel hearty. In summer, I like to bring a platter of raw veggies or sautéed summer squash with julienned carrots, if a salad isn’t wanted. In winter, I might offer roasted root vegetables. Now that it is autumn, I thought about broccoli or broccoli rabe, sautéed with garlic and chili flakes or blanched watercress with a sesame vinaigrette and toasted sesame seeds. Since I had 2 heads of broccoli in the fridge from that week’s farm share, I just sautéed them with a few additions. If you like broccoli rabe, you could make it the same way only you would blanch it for a few minutes and drain before adding it to the sauté. Both hold up very well to traveling and taste good at room temperature.

Bunch of Broccoli Rabe
Bunch of Broccoli Rabe

Lastly, I remembered to bring the broccoli in a serving dish so my friend wouldn’t have to scramble to find something appropriate while trying to get her dinner on the table. Ditto for a potluck. If there is sauce or dressing involved in your dish or just to keep everything clean and tidy, bring your contribution in a covered container and then transfer to your serving bowl or platter when you arrive. You have to carry the food anyway, so a plate or bowl and even utensils won’t add much weight. I often use a lidded Pyrex that can double as a serving dish. If you aren’t coming from home, it might be best to offer drinks or dessert. And there are always flowers!

Broccoli Rabe with Garlic, Currants and Chili Flakes Flameware Casserole Dish by Robbie Lobell
Broccoli Rabe with Garlic, Currants and Chili Flakes
Flameware Casserole Dish by Robbie Lobell

BROCCOLI with GARLIC, CURRANTS, CHILI FLAKES and PINE NUTS

  • 1 large head of broccoli, cleaned and cut into florets and stem sliced or 1 bunch broccoli rabe, cleaned, cut into bite sized pieces, blanched 3-4 minutes and drained
  • 2 TBs olive, avocado or grape seed oil
  • 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2-3 TBs dried currants (if you don’t have them, you could chop raisins)
  • 1 large pinch dried red chili flakes
  • 1/4 cup raw or lightly toasted pine nuts (or another nut, if you prefer), optional

Heat a large sauté pan and add oil until hot.

Reduce heat and add garlic and stir until starting to soften, about 30 seconds.

Add currants and chili flakes and stir another 30 seconds.

Add broccoli and a big splash (about 1/4 cup) of water or stock and stir until liquid evaporates and broccoli is barely soft enough to pierce with a fork. Err on the side of undercooked as it will continue to cook and there is almost nothing that smells worse than overcooked broccoli.

Remove from heat and from cooking pot in order to stop cooking. If using broccoli rabe, add and cook just to heat through and be well mixed.

Sprinkle nuts on top, if using, and toss.

With the addition of carrots - looks festive!
With the addition of carrots – looks festive!

Note: Robbie Lobell’s work, along with many other fine potters, will be for sale at the Holiday Sale at the Old Church Art School in Demarest, New Jersey the first weekend in December.

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Filed Under: Recipes, Vegetables

The Great Northern Food Hall: A Reason to Head for Grand Central Station

October 19, 2016

Great Northern Food Hall in the western half of Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Station
Great Northern Food Hall in the western half of Vanderbilt Hall
at Grand Central Station

It used to be that if you were catching a train at Grand Central Station and needed something to eat, you could grab a bagel at Zaro’s, some nuts at Hudson News or hunker down for a meal at the Oyster Bar. In recent years, the lower level food court has been upgraded and improved but I wouldn’t eat there by choice. The high- end marketplace on the Lexington Avenue side of the station, anchored by Eli Zabar’s and including a nut shop, fish market, coffee shop, flowers, cheese and charcuterie is well stocked but it is quite pricey. I would buy bread or a gift there but nothing else really beckons to me.

The Grain Bar on one side of the Great Northern Food Hall serving morning porridges and full meals later in the day
The Grain Bar on one side of the Great Northern Food Hall
serving morning porridges and full meals later in the day

I’m happy to report there are new grab and go and dine-in options in Grand Central. Claus Meyer, the Danish restaurateur who opened a chain of bakeries and Noma (voted best restaurant for several years running) in Copenhagen, recently turned his culinary talents to bringing Scandinavian food to New York. Starting with a pop-up patisserie, now brick and mortar, and a coffee roaster in Brooklyn, he has now tackled Manhattan. Lucky for us, he opened the Great Nordic Food Hall this summer in half of Vanderbilt Hall, the old Grand Central waiting room on 42nd Street, a bakery and deli near the IRT subway, a “hot dog” (really sausage) kiosk, and Agern, a high end restaurant focusing on local and seasonal food and drink, which I haven’t tried yet but hope to find an occasion to do so.

Havarti Sandwich ($3.50) at the Great Northern Food Hall and the Great Northern Deli
Havarti Sandwich ($3.50) at the Great Northern Food Hall
and the Great Northern Deli

Since finding the Meyer Bageri (the bakery) at the Great Northern Deli, I have detoured whenever in the neighborhood or taking the train or the shuttle (just down the hall) to buy a sourdough or whole grain rye bread and, full disclosure, the raspberry bars – they are heavenly! Full of freshly made raspberry filling and sweet, buttery pastry, they are a reason to take the train. After sampling the delectable almond poppyseed twist and flaky, creamy maple pecan Danish, I didn’t dare try their gluten-free valrhona chocolate brownies but they look fantastic. The deli also sells sandwiches, drinks, bags of granola, cookbooks and gift items, in case you forgot a little something, either as a hostess gift or to eat while waiting for or riding a train.

Grab coffee, sandwiches, salads, bread, pastry and all kinds of food gifts at the Great Northern Deli off the hallway near the S shuttle to Times Square
Grab coffee, sandwiches, salads, bread, pastry and all kinds of food gifts
at the Great Northern Deli near the S shuttle to Times Square
Hindbaersnitte (what Meyers Bageri calls a Danish pop tart with raspberry)
Hindbaersnitte (what Meyers Bageri calls a Danish pop tart with raspberry)

Next door to the deli is the diminutive but well designed and very tasty Danish Dogs. These are not traditional hot dogs but for $8 you have a choice of 4 kinds of sausage on an in-house made hot dog bun with abundant and interesting toppings including lingonberries, beet remoulade, cucumber salad, sorrel leaves and fried onions. Just remembering the delicious chicken sausage assemblage I ate there makes me want to return in a hurry! Until 10:30 every morning (when it is really too early to be seen eating a hot dog), this counter serves made to order $7 omelet sandwiches.

$8 Sausage Sandwiches at the Danish Dogs Kiosk
$8 Sausage Sandwiches at the Danish Dogs Kiosk

The food hall is appealingly spare, in neutral tones with a calm vibe (remarkable considering its setting) and includes a bar, coffee counter and kiosks for sandwiches (both open face Danish style smorrebrod and regular) and baked goods. There are plenty of tables for eating what you purchase as well as a sit-down, full service cafe for salads and hot food. Over the summer, my husband and I tried several sandwiches, drinks and desserts – all were excellent, including the coffee (from Meyer’s Brownsville Roasters.) Our favorite was the celeriac sandwich (thinly sliced celery root, green apple and walnut ($10) on a flavorful in-house made whole grain “hoagie” and the above mentioned hindbaersnitte, the raspberry bar so good my mouth waters just thinking about it.

Celeriac Sandwich at Meyers Bageri
Celeriac Sandwich at Meyers Bageri

The philosophy behind the food hall is as attractive as the food displays. The lowest paid employees start at the living wage of $15/hour with benefits – what other casual dining arena in New York can say that? Food is actually locally sourced and well raised, there is a feeling of quality over quantity, and although it is busy, the food hall is a pleasant place to sit and have a coffee, lunch or drink at the bar. It is not that the food is less expensive than what I could find in the downstairs food court. It’s just that it is so much more appealing on so many levels. Instead of just grabbing the least “bad” thing I could find while running for a train, the Nordic Food Hall is a place at which I will plan to eat often and intentionally.

Smorrebrod (open face sandwiches) at Great Northern Food Hall
Smorrebrod (open face sandwiches)
at Great Northern Food Hall

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Filed Under: Breakfast, dessert, Drinks, Farm to table, Places, Restaurants

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Here you will find recipes and ideas for easy to make and tasty meals, sources for interesting dinnerware on which to serve those meals and resources for ingredients, classes and food related travel. My goal is to make daily cooking simpler and to inspire you to try different recipes beyond the handful you already make repeatedly. I hope that relaying my experiences will enhance yours. Follow along and let me know about your own cooking and food journeys.

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