A Good Dish

making food simpler

Cooking Cool During the Summer – Just Bean the Heat!

Summer Bean Salad
Porcelain Terrine by Andrew Martin

It is officially summer now and that means different things to different people. Summer can be a slower, more casual time of year when you take time off to lounge by a pool, walk in the park or seek out a beach. Food wise, it can be a time for barbecues and picnics. For me, summer means finding ways to beat the heat and that includes the food and drink I consume as well as the way I prepare it for my family.

Because we live in New York, charcoal grilling is out but I might pull out the electric grill (the old George Forman still works) or a cast iron grill pan and toss on some marinated chicken or shrimp to get the flavor of summer bbq. No long roasting for me in the summer, either. In fact, I rarely turn on my oven, opting instead for a quick stir fry, pasta or a completely cold meal. I don’t even use my toaster oven much since if I turn it on while the air conditioner is on, I will blow a fuse – literally! Meat tends to make me feel even warmer so I concentrate on lots of salads, including light grain, bean and cut vegetable salads, and, naturally, just salad greens. The farmers markets are bursting with gorgeous early summer produce that is easily turned into simple, cooling meals (like sugar snap peas, asparagus, garlic scrapes and basil, for pesto). I try to concentrate on foods, mostly vegetables but also beans and fish and seafood, with lower calorie density – they are less warming so they help keep us cooler. And the things that heat you up might not be what you would suspect. For example, you might think that iced coffee is refreshing but the caffeine in it is thermogenic and will make you warmer. If you want to keep cool, make your second one a decaf or stick with water!

Geranium (1926) by George Sheeler at the Whitney

Many summer foods require no cooking, like guacamole, hummus, all kinds of berries and melons, carrot or beet salads and an assembled mezze or cheese board. Cold soups are refreshing and can be made in a blender (think gazpacho and blueberry soup). One of my summer favorites is a bean salad, usually with a vinaigrette and as many vegetables and herbs as I can manage to incorporate. I tend to stay away from cumin and ginger based dressings as they, too, are warming. Most of the time I cook my own beans for a recipe but in summer a few cans of beans suffice; When dressed, you won’t really notice any difference. Feel free to use whatever type of bean you like, add the vegetables you enjoy, toss in leftover chicken, shrimp, rice or cooked veggies and use your favorite dressing. My recipe is just a guideline. After all, the goal is to keep cool. If its all too much effort, make a cold drink and put up your feet. Happy summer!

NO COOK BEAN SALAD

  • 3-4 cups cooked beans (kidney, cannellini, pinto or whatever you prefer)
  • 1/2-1 cup finely chopped red onion or scallions, white and green parts
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill or 1T dried dill (or cilantro, mint or basil)
  • 1/2-1 cup finely chopped celery (red or green or jalapeño pepper would also be good)
  • Big handful of chopped parsley
  • Bite-sizes pieces of leftover cooked chicken, shrimp, rice or vegetables, optional

Vinaigrette:

  • 1 tsp minced garlic
  • 2 T fresh lemon juice (about 1 small lemon)
  • 2 T vinegar (could be rice, sherry, wine or balsamic)
  • 2 T umeboshi plum vinegar – optional but really adds flavor (found with Japanese products)
  • 4 T flavorful olive oil
  • Big pinch of salt
  • Big pinch of pepper

Whisk together, pour over salad ingredients and toss. The salad will benefit from a few hours in the marinade.

Can be served cold or at room temperature.

Once in a while we get a rainbow after a summer storm

Salad Every Day – Just Do It!

Early spring salad with bagged greens, oranges and toasted pumpkin seeds
Bowl by Adero Willard

I like to eat a salad at least once a day but this can be challenging in the winter. Fresh vegetables don’t always look that fresh come late winter and soup often seems more appealing. I make lots of soups (kind of like a hot salad in some ways) but I almost always accompany them with a salad of some sort. We just got home from 3 weeks of travel and the first thing we wanted was a big green salad.

Fresh salad greens are available year round

With better packaging techniques and shipping, a variety of greens are available in markets and grocery stores year round. Some greens, like watercress, arugula and baby versions of kale, beet and mustard grow well in greenhouses and can be bagged or boxed efficiently and keep pretty well for a couple day in your refrigerator. We can depend on them before local spring greens appear. Pears, apples, persimmons and pomegranates are available at different times during the winter and citrus is still plentiful. If you don’t have fresh fruit, chop some dried apricots or pears or add a handful of dried cranberries or raisins. Add fresh green herbs, storage vegetables (like carrots or radishes) and some toasted seeds or nuts and you have a gorgeous salad on the table in a flash.

Chopped celery and cucumber add crunch to salads

The following recipe is about as basic as salad gets and is is just a framework. It is the same structure for the raw beet and carrot salads I posted this winter only here I’ve used greens. It is more a reminder that a salad is so easy to make and the contents so flexible. Adjust the amounts according to your tastes. You can’t really go wrong. If you don’t feel like lettuce, use leftover or freshly cooked vegetables. Add in raw peas, scallions, raw cabbage, sugar snaps, red onion or whatever you like that you have available. I’ve included my usual vinaigrette recipe which dresses a big bowlful of vegetables plus some to store in the fridge for tomorrow’s salad.

VARIABLE GREEN SALAD with Basic Vinaigrette

  • Watercress, arugula and/or baby greens – the amounts depend on how much salad you want – washed, dried and torn in bite sized piece
  • Pear, apple, avocado or persimmon, diced or some citrus supremes or a handful of bite-sized dried fruit
  • Some combination of carrot, radish, celery, cucumber or jicama, sliced or diced in bite sized pieces
  • Cilantro or parsley, chopped (or any fresh herb you like and have on hand)
  • Toasted or raw pumpkin or sunflower seeds, chopped walnuts or almonds or pistachios (optional)
  • Sprinkle of chia and/or hemp seeds (optional)

Whisk together:

  • 1/4 cup orange, lemon, grapefruit or lime juice or a combination
  • Splash of rice vinegar (about 1 TBs)
  • 1/4 cup olive oil (or part olive, part avocado or walnut oil)
  • Pinch of granulated garlic (I use this instead of garlic powder as it is more flavorful)
  • Pinch of salt and black pepper

If you like a creamier dressing, add 1 TBs Dijon Mustard and 1-2 TBs Yogurt or Buttermilk

Endive, apricot, celery, cilantro and toasted walnuts
Bowl by Adero Willard

What Can You Do to Battle Winter Colds? Make Fire Cider!

Fire Cider Steeping in Mason Jars
Fire Cider Steeping in Mason Jars

Winter is almost here and that means it is time to bolster your defenses against incoming cold and flu viruses. Of course, wash your hands often, eat healthfully, laugh a lot and get enough sleep. But beyond these commonly known preventive measures, there is something else you can do – make and take fire cider.

Use unpasteurized apple cider vinegar
Use unpasteurized apple cider vinegar

Fire Cider is an herbal concoction (or more correctly – decoction) that may be an old folk recipe for a vinegar tonic made with medicinal herbs. It seems to have been formulated and written down by Rosemary Gladstar, a California herbalist, at the California School of Herbal Studies, in the 1980’s. Since then, people have battled over the rights to the name but you don’t have to buy the offending brand because you can make your own. Why pay a hefty amount for a small bottle (around $15 for 8 oz) when for a small outlay, you can make a yourself a quart with high quality organic ingredients you choose and control? I first bought Fire Cider from someone selling wild crafted bottles of it at a gas station in Vermont but have since seen it sold at lots of healthy food stores.

The basic recipe was given to me by a friend who is an impressive homesteader – she gardens, keeps chickens, grills paella and, now, makes her own fire cider. It calls for horseradish, onion, garlic, ginger, garlic, turmeric root, citrus and hot peppers soaked in apple cider vinegar for a month. These are herbs and spices known for their anti-inflammatory, antiviral, mucus-thinning, expectorant and stimulating properties. Possible add-ins are a personal choice and could include parsley, rosemary, cinnamon, lemongrass, thyme, echinacea, astragalus root, cayenne powder or flakes, burdock, rosehips or black peppercorns. (Please try to use organic ingredients if you are able). Some people drink it straight. Many sweeten it with honey. If you are vegan, you could use stevia, agave or maple syrup. You can use it as a tonic, taking a daily shot, or as a medicine, sipping as needed to battle congestion, colds or indigestion.

Pour unpasteurized apple cider vinegar over the chopped and grated ingredients
Pour unpasteurized apple cider vinegar over the chopped and grated ingredients

It isn’t too late in the season to make this immune booster. If you make it this week, your fire cider will be ready right around New Years when you may need it most. Some cooks use it in salad dressing (as the vinegar component), add it to mustard or put a splash in tea or a cocktail. Once strained, it can sit on a counter in a cool room for weeks or be stored in the refrigerator in a glass bottle or jar. If you go into production this week, you could give fire cider (with the recipe) as a thoughtful, homemade gift for the holidays. Who couldn’t use a shot of immune boosting to get through the winter, especially when you’ll feel so virtuous?

Turmeric, ginger and horseradish roots and habanero pepper Pressed and painted earthenware plate by Patrick Loughran
Turmeric, ginger and horseradish roots and habanero pepper
Pressed and painted earthenware plate by Patrick Loughran

FIRE CIDER

  •  1/2 cup fresh horseradish root, chopped or grated
  • 1/2 cup onion, chopped
  • 1/2 cup garlic, chopped
  • 1/4-1/2 cup ginger root, chopped or grated
  • 1/4-1/2 cup turmeric root, chopped or grated
  • 1 habanero (or Serrano, cayenne or jalapeño) chili pepper, chopped (please use gloves)
  • 1/2 orange, chopped (including peel)
  • 1/2 lemon, chopped (including peel)
  • 3-4 cups unfiltered apple cider vinegar (Bragg’s is a good brand)

Optional ingredients:

  • 1-2 cinnamon sticks, broken
  • 1/2 cup parsley sprigs
  • 1 TBs fresh rosemary leaves
  • 1 TBs black peppercorns
  • 1/4-1/2 cup chopped burdock root
  • 1 TBs fresh thyme leaves
  • 1/2 cup chopped echinacea or astragalus root

 Place all chopped ingredients in a clean glass jar (either 1 half gallon or 2 quart jars will work – dividing the herbs evenly) and pour enough vinegar over to cover contents. Put a piece of waxed paper over the top of the jar and then screw on the lid.

 Let the closed jars sit out for 3-4 weeks at room temperature, shaking daily, or when you remember. After about a month, strain the liquid into a clean jar (if you strain through cheesecloth you can squeeze out every drop) and discard the solids. (Gladstar, who devised the formula, suggest making a chutney from the strained herbs). Taste (be prepared for a strong taste!) and add up to 1/4 cup of raw honey, as you want. Your fire cider can sit at room temperature for a few weeks (if your room isn’t warm)or you can store it in the refrigerator. Shake before using.

 Take a prophylactic shot daily, or as needed to feel you are participating in your own good health!

Bottled and ready to gift with a copy of the recipe
Bottled and ready to gift with a copy of the recipe

Easy and Versatile Mango Salsa

Mango Tomatillo Salsa Porcelain bowl by James Makins
Mango Tomatillo Salsa
Porcelain bowl by James Makins

Mangoes are 3 for $4 at our local green grocer this week and freshly picked tomatillos are now in season at farmers markets. Time to make mango-tomatillo salsa! It is a simple but very flavorful recipe (and so good it is hard to stop eating) which uses a lot of late summer vegetables – tomatillos, red, green and jalapeño peppers and cilantro plus lime and pineapple juice. It’s easy to make – just a combination of chopping and blending – and delicious with tortilla chips or celery, in tacos or even an omelet and on top of cooked fish, tofu, chicken or pork. You can purée a cup of the salsa to pour over your protein of choice for a marinade. This salsa makes a delicious chicken salad – just add diced or shredded chicken, toss well and top with chopped almonds and more cilantro.

Mango Tomatillo Chicken Salad with Almonds Plate by James Makins
Mango Tomatillo Chicken Salad with Almonds
Plate by James Makins

The original recipe came from John Willoughby and Chris Schlesinger’s wonderful slim volume of very flavorful sauces and relishes entitled Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys and Chowchows. I’ve altered it only slightly. It is essentially a green salsa with diced mango and peppers. I use mangoes that give just a bit when pressed but are still firm so they are easy to dice. If they are riper, they are harder to cut but sweeter. It’s always a toss up. The fineness of the dice is a personal preference. I like everything diced quite small but you may like it chunkier. If you don’t have fresh tomatillos, you may use a 12oz can of tomatillos. And if you like really hot salsa, don’t take out the seeds of your hot peppers.

Fresh tomatillos in a porcelain bowl by James Makins
Fresh tomatillos in a porcelain bowl by James Makins

Don’t be intimidated if you have never used tomatillos. They are a tangier, crisper and slightly tarter green tomato. If you don’t like mango, try papaya or pineapple. This salsa keeps in the fridge for 5-6 days and the recipe makes a lot, so you can eat it with chips, make tacos, use it in chicken salad and still give a jar to a friend.

MANGO SALSA

Purée in a blender or food processor:

  • 6 medium tomatillos, husk removed and quartered
  • 2 TBs minced garlic (about 2 large cloves)
  • 1-2 jalapeño or Serrano chilies, seeded and minced (the number depend on how hot you like your salsa)
  • 1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
  • 3/4 cup (a small can) unsweetened pineapple juice
  • 1/3 cup white vinegar
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice (2-3 limes, depending on juiciness)
  • 2 TBs cumin seeds, toasted (toast in a hot, dry pan until fragrant and browned but don’t walk away – watch closely and be careful not to burn)
  • Pinch of salt

Place in a medium bowl:

  • 3 firm but ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted and diced small
  • 1 medium red onion, peeled and minced
  • 1 sweet red or yellow pepper, seeds removed and diced small
  • 1 green pepper, seeds removed and diced small

Pour purée over diced fruit and vegetables. Mix well and refrigerate. Makes about 1 quart.

Optional add-ins:

1 cup jicama, peeled and diced small

1/2 cup fresh mint, chopped instead of cilantro

1 cup peeled cucumber, diced small

1 cup pineapple, peeled, cored and diced small

1 cup diced avocado (but in this case, it will only keep one day in the fridge)

Ripe mangoes on a porcelain plate by James Makins
Ripe mangoes on a porcelain plate by James Makins

Labor Day Picnic Ideas

detail of picnic scene by Milton Avery in the Avery show on exhibit now at the Bennington Museum
detail of picnic scene by Milton Avery
in the Avery show on exhibit now at the Bennington Museum

A Labor Day picnic is a way to use up the contents of your produce drawer and have a lovely late summer meal outdoors. Whether you box it all up to transport to a park or beach or plate it to serve in your yard, a picnic is a fun, easy and festive way to eat on a day when we take off from our ordinary labor. Picnics often involve less complicated foods and certainly less dishes to do! When our son was young, we would picnic at a nearby playground with other families on warm summer nights. The kids could run around and we got a break from the kitchen and time to chat with other parents. Now we are more likely to take a picnic when we go to hear music outdoors and almost always when taking the train or flying somewhere.

Picnic food has certain requirements – no mayo (or other ingredients that go bad from sitting out for a while), ease of eating (often to be picked up in the hands or off paper plates) and easily transported. I usually think of Italian antipasto when composing a picnic – if food can sit out on a buffet table for hours, it will probably be fine in a cooler or picnic basket. I try, whenever possible, not to use plastic containers so for picnicking or lunch boxes, I use glass or stainless steel boxes. I know everyone is not so persnickety. Even deli sandwiches or containers of salad bar takeout provide the makings for an improvised picnic.

Tomato and cucumber salad with pesto vinaigrette
Tomato and cucumber salad with pesto vinaigrette

All kinds of simple foods work on a picnic – cheeses, salami or other dried sausages, olives, nuts, sandwiches without mayonnaise, rice, pasta, and bean salads with oil based dressings, whole, sliced or cut up fruit (peaches, figs and watermelon are perfect right now), cleaned and cut raw vegetables like carrots, celery, peppers, jicama, cucumbers and cherry tomatoes). With just a bit more effort you can include cooked vegetable salads (like broccoli, cauliflower, roasted peppers, corn or summer squash) with vinaigrette and even cooked chicken, ham or bacon, smoked or cold, poached fish, canned tuna or salmon prepared with oil or mustard and even a frittata can hold up to jostling and temperature fluctuations if you are careful about sauces and timing and carry some cold packs.

My favorite picnic food is pesto. It’s great on pasta, beans, rice, baked or fried tempeh and tofu, chicken, fish or lightly cooked vegetables and doesn’t spoil easily. The traditional basil is my fallback but there are terrific versions made with arugula, kale, parsley and even Swiss chard. You can make it with or without cheese and even without nuts, black pepper or garlic, if you can’t eat or don’t like them. Just make sure to wash and dry your greens before blending and add plenty of fresh olive oil and salt which help preserve the greens. I use a food processor but you could make this with a mortar and pestle or in a strong blender.

Rice pasta salad with pesto and arugula Bowl by Silvie Granatelli
Rice pasta salad with pesto and arugula
Bowl by Silvie Granatelli

So head out to a park or the beach, hiking or boating, your deck, porch or yard while the weather is mild and bring a meal with you – it’s easy to prepare ahead and you won’t spend your day off concerned with meal planning. If, by chance it rains, spread your tablecloth or blanket on the floor and invent a pretend outing. I once planned a birthday picnic in Riverside park but when it rained, everyone just brought their fixings to our apartment and we had a wonderful indoor celebration.  You can picnic anywhere. Don’t forget lots of water and lemonade, beer, wine and/or a thermos of your favorite concoction to add to the festive feeling. Happy outings!

Indoor potluck picnic at a friend's apartment
Indoor potluck picnic at a friend’s apartment

 

PRETTY TRADITIONAL BUT DELICIOUS BASIL PESTO

  •  1-2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 cup walnuts, toasted or raw
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional
  • Pinch of salt and pinch of black pepper
  • 2-3 cups washed and dried fresh basil leaves
  • Handful of washed and dried parsley or watercress or arugula, optional
  • 4 TBS extra virgin olive oil, or more to reach desired consistency 

Put garlic in processor and pulse until finely ground. Add basil and any other green, if using, salt and pepper and process until all well mixed and leaves are all ground. Add nuts and cheese, if using, and pulse until ground and combined. Stop and scrape down sides. Stream in the oil while the motor is running. Stop and scrape down sides and see if it needs more seasoning or oil to reach a smooth consistency.

 Use right away, thinned with a little (a couple of TBs) cooking water from pasta, rice or vegetables, to toss with pasta, rice, vegetables, cut up chicken or cooked beans (cannellini or great northern work well but so do many other types). Grate in a little lemon zest or squeeze in a little lemon juice for a fresh taste or add a pinch of cayenne or crushed chilies for heat. If using the salad for a picnic, cool in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight. Pesto keeps well in the fridge for weeks with a thin coating of oil on top or in the freezer for months.

Clean basil ready to be turned into pesto
Clean basil ready to be turned into pesto

 PESTO VINAIGRETTE

 Shake or whisk until well blended:

  • 2 TBs pesto
  • 1 TBs wine or balsamic vinegar