A Good Dish

making food simpler

Hummus on a hot day – the Mezze solution

Smoked paprika, roasted red pepper, cilantro & jalapeño and sesame hummus Porcelain bowls from Sara Japanese Pottery on Lexington Avenue
Smoked paprika, roasted red pepper, cilantro & jalapeño and sesame hummus
Porcelain bowls from Sara Japanese Pottery on Lexington Avenue

I am not going to turn on the oven or the stove – just not going to do it. With another week of over 90F and humid, with the heat index over 100, I am not going to add to the temperature in the kitchen. But we still need to eat, so I have to prepare meals without straining the groaning AC any more than I am already. And in this kind of weather, we all prefer a lighter meal.

In my mind, summer dinners should be fun, cooling and a bit hodgepodge. If you don’t have access to a grill, salads are a way to go. A few weeks ago, I shared the cucumber and pineapple salad with lime and mint that is fresh and zingy. And the tomato salads and variations (the caprese with mozzarella, the tomato and cuke with basil, the watermelon with feta, mint and lime) are another solution. Cold soup is one more direction, essentially being a liquid salad. Gazpacho, cold cucumber soup with yogurt or buttermilk or a fruit soup, like blueberry or melon are all light, cooling lunches or suppers. Or simply put out a cheese or charcuterie board with some fig jam or pepper jelly, nuts, cold grapes or sliced fruit and a green salad and be done.

One more idea, and one you probably already have in your fridge, is hummus. Boring, you are thinking? Doesn’t have to be. And doesn’t have to be served with pita or chips – carrots, celery, green and red pepper, cucumber, jicama and radishes all make excellent dipping vehicles and, when well arranged, make a lovely mezze platter. You can even start with store bought hummus and doctor it up, although homemade takes so very little time and effort it is really worth it – plus you know what is in it! Blend in avocado, pieces of black or green olives, jalapeños, roasted peppers, cooked beets or carrots, toasted walnuts, chopped chives, parsley or dill or, my favorite, smoked paprika. Pretty much anything goes. Lighten it all up by mixing in some plain yogurt or enrich it by drizzling with plain or chili infused olive oil. If you don’t eat legumes, make the recipe without the chickpeas only add a little less water and use it as a tahini dip.

The best hummus I ever ate was at Zahav, Michael Solomonov’s restaurant in Philadelphia. It was creamy, lemony and altogether full of sesame flavor. The recipe I have provided below is based on his, with a few modifications. If it were a cold weather month, I would cook my own chickpeas but with this heat, I am happy to use canned. Solomonov recommends Soom Tahini (sold on Amazon) but I’ve used a local brand (Sahadi from Brooklyn), Trader Joe’s (which happens to be organic) and several health food brands (all in glass, not a tin) with good results. Err on the side of more garlic, salt and lemon rather than too little and blend it all longer than you would think for super creaminess.

Plate your hummus in a beautiful shallow bowl (easier for dipping), drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with paprika or sesame seeds and surround it generously with all kinds of colorful vegetables on a large platter or wooden board. To make a mezze platter, serve it with or without some stuffed grape leaves (as easy as opening a can), small bowls of olives, cherry tomatoes, those yummy peppadew or cherry peppers, sliced melon, tabbouleh or a parsley salad and an accompanying bread – focaccia, ciabatta, baguette or pita, or your favorite gluten-free crackers (try the Mary’s pretzel-like sticks with the hummus – very crunchy) – add a cold beer or glass of wine and dinner is served.

Mezze platter, heavy on the vegetables My bowls and platter
Mezze platter, heavy on the vegetables
My bowls and platter

Homemade Hummus

1 can (15.5 oz.) organic chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup tahini
2-3 garlic cloves
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 heaping teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 cup water or more, as needed

Combine garlic, salt and cumin and pulse until minced well.
Add lemon juice and pulse, then add tahini and pulse until it seizes up.
Add water, more if needed, and blend until smooth.
Add chickpeas and pulse until completely smooth.
Taste for seasoning and add more salt if you think it needs it – probably will.
Hummus keeps well for days in the refrigerator.

Optional add-ins:
1 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds (reserve 1 tsp for sprinkling on top)
1-2 roasted red peppers (I use jarred)
2 green jalapeños and a big handful of cilantro with juice of 1/2 lime
1 roasted beet
1-2 TBs olive oil
1/2-1 cup plain yogurt
1/2-1 peeled and pitted avocado
1/2 cup black or green pitted olives
A handful of parsley and chives
1/2 cup sautéed onions or several cloves of roasted garlic
If you take out half of the hummus before putting in an add-in, you can make 2 flavors out of one recipe.
Whatever else you can imagine – hummus is a good vehicle for adding your favorite ingredient

Cool Down with a Refreshing Summer Gazpacho

Summer Gazpacho with chopped cucumber, green pepper and jalapeño Soda-fired mug by Gertrude Graham Smith
Summer Gazpacho with chopped cucumber, green pepper and jalapeño
Soda-fired mug by Gertrude Graham Smith

August is upon us and that means my kitchen counter is laden with a rainbow of tomatoes, waiting to be blended into gazpacho. Tomatoes and cucumbers are finally local and plentiful – so plentiful, in fact, that sometimes a salsa, sauce or a soup is the fastest way to use up a load of them. When it is too hot to cook, however, gazpacho is not only a good solution for too many quickly ripening tomatoes but a light and cool meal, prepared without heating your kitchen. I’ll save the sauce and hot soup making for September.

Cherry tomatoes at the farmer's market
Cherry tomatoes at the farmer’s market

Gazpacho is essentially a liquid salad and the variations are many. The basics are tomato, cucumber, onion and garlic but some people add bread, others zucchini, and still others lots of olive oil. Traditional Spanish gazpacho includes both bread and quite a bit of oil and is almost orange, not the vibrant tomato juice red we see in this country most of the time. Even people who don’t like tomatoes often like gazpacho, perhaps because all the other flavors change the taste and texture.

When making gazpacho, I prefer no bread and plenty of vegetables. The version I make adds green pepper and watermelon, some oil, vinegar and a green herb, either cilantro or basil or both. If you don’t like or don’t have one ingredient, use another. As long as you have the basics, the optional items are quite flexible. Sometimes I toss in leftover salsa or incorporate the remainder of a caprese salad, minus any cheese, since the components are essentially the same. My family doesn’t like zucchini but a little in a gazpacho gets by unnoticed – shh! If you like your gazpacho with more liquid, add some tomato or vegetable juice. If you like it spicier, add hot sauce, jalapeño or cayenne. If you like it chunkier, blend it less or add some finely chopped hard boiled egg or vegetables  before serving. If you like it richer, add a dollop of guacamole, creme fraiche or drizzle it with an herbal olive oil. You can vary the color by the variety of tomatoes you use. When traveling last week, I had a strikingly beautiful gazpacho made with only yellow and orange tomatoes and topped with fresh basil – very refreshing and visually appealing!

Chopped vegetables add texture to summer gazpacho
Chopped vegetables add texture to summer gazpacho
Guacamole and chopped cilantro enrich a cup of gazpacho
Guacamole and chopped cilantro enrich a cup of gazpacho

Apart from the traditional tomato gazpacho, there are scores of fruity versions using melons, peaches and berries, often using mint as the herbal component. I saw a mouth-watering version recently that would also make the base of a delicious cocktail. I am more of a gazpacho traditionalist, preferring mine with tomatoes and cucumbers, especially when the tomato season is as bountiful as it is this year.

 

Summer gazpacho with guacamole Porcelain cup by Sam Chung
Summer gazpacho with guacamole
Porcelain cup by Sam Chung

SUMMER GAZPACHO

Blend together:

  • 2 large ripe tomatoes, cut up – about 2 heaping cups
  • 1-1 1/2 cup cut up watermelon

Add and blend well:

  • 1/2 large green pepper, cut up – about 1 cup
  • 1/2 large red pepper (optional)
  • 1/2 large cucumber, cut up – about 1 cup (skin on or off as you please – if seeds are large, remove them)
  • 1/2 medium onion, cut up – about 1 cup
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved (if you don’t like garlic, omit it and use some scallions or shallots)
  • 5-6 fresh basil leaves
  • Generous handful of fresh cilantro
  • 2 TBs vinegar – red wine or balsamic or a blend
  • 1-2 TBs olive oil
  • 2 large pinches of sea salt
  • 1 pinch black pepper

If you want your gazpacho spicy, add some chopped jalapeño.

Chill well and taste before serving to see if seasoning needs adjusting.

Serve in cups, glasses or mugs so it is easy to drink.

Garnish with chopped cucumber, green and/or red pepper and scallions or a dollop of guacamole and a sprig of cilantro.

Serves 4. Keep in a glass jar in the refrigerator up to 2 days.

Caprese Salad – many variations on a theme

Ripe farmer's market tomatoes
Ripe farmer’s market tomatoes

A composed Caprese salad is the classic no-cook summer meal. It just involves some slicing and drizzling and it is ready to eat. The traditional Caprese is sliced tomatoes and mozzarella with fresh basil leaves topped with olive oil, sometimes balsamic or red wine vinegar, salt and pepper. A summer lunch or dinner doesn’t get much simpler.

Caprese hors d'oeuvre with cherry tomatoes and bocconcini Plate by Simon Levin
Caprese hors d’oeuvre with cherry tomatoes and bocconcini
Plate by Simon Levin
Bush basil (left) and Genovese basil (right)
Bush basil (left) and Genovese basil (right)

But there are many variations on the classic. You can substitute peaches, nectarines or an orange fleshed melon – like cantaloupe or musk – for the tomatoes or use cherry tomatoes and bocconcini (the little mozzarella balls you eat in one bite) on a skewer with a basil leaf – the perfect summer hors d’oeuvre. Or cut tomatoes and mozzarella in chunks and toss with torn basil leaves and vinaigrette.

If you want a heavier meal, you could add pasta, quinoa or fresh corn and some extra vinaigrette. If you don’t eat cheese, just leave out the mozzarella or add avocado – it is satisfying and substantial and you will get a similar flavor from the fresh basil, olive oil and vinegar. If you have bush basil (the tiny leaf variety), you can use it in place of the traditional Genovese basil. Just sprinkle it over the whole salad instead of using the usual whole leaves. Fresh oregano or arugula can substitute for basil, if you like them better, or add a bit of oregano to the dressing for complexity. (In winter, you might use oil-soaked dried tomatoes and dried basil and oregano for an out-of-season version). A cousin of the caprese is the watermelon/feta salad – a little lime or lemon juice, olive oil, red onion and mint – an easy no-cook and refreshing meal.

Peaches, mozzarella and fresh basil leaves
Peaches, mozzarella and fresh basil leaves

How you design your salad is up to you. Once you have chosen your fruit (tomato, peach, etc.), the fun is in laying out the overlapping slices in a pleasing pattern, straight, circular or otherwise, and punctuating with the fresh basil. The whole thing may be layered directly on a plate or platter or on a bed or lettuce or arugula, for extra greens. Then drizzle with a good, preferably aged, balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt and black pepper and you are ready to eat.

Traditional Caprese Salad Plate by Bandana Pottery - Michael Hunt and Naomi Dalglish
Traditional Caprese Salad
Plate by Bandana Pottery – Michael Hunt and Naomi Dalglish

Fresh mozzarella is available widely now. Even Costco sells a tasty variety made with milk untreated with hormones. Or try a simpler version without cheese – the solo tomato/basil combination is a pretty good runner up, especially when seasonal tomatoes are as delicious as they are just starting to be. Just tomatoes and cucumbers (you could also add green and/or red peppers) are delicious with fresh basil and balsamic and olive oil. Any leftovers, if there are any, can go right into tomorrow’s gazpacho. If you are a bread eater, make sure to have a crusty loaf handy to mop up all of the flavorful juices!

Cold Salmon Salad with Dill

Salmon Salad plates by Andrew Martin
Salmon Salad
plates by Andrew Martin

Canned salmon may not be in your pantry but it has become a staple in mine. A few weeks ago, I wrote about cooked salmon cakes made with canned salmon. Since this is a series on no-cook dishes, I am offering an easier, quicker and much cooler preparation –  a salmon salad. It is a terrific substitute for tuna salad since it doesn’t have a high mercury content, is made with mustard, not mayo, so it picnics well and makes a substantial sandwich filling.

The benefits of wild salmon are many – high in omega-3’s, lean protein, good tasting and well-sourced. The ease of having it on your shelf in a can means you aren’t limited to a season plus it is much more economical – from about $4 – $6 per 14.75 oz can. (If price were no issue, you could make this salad with leftover cooked fresh salmon and it would be delicious in a different way). Tinned wild salmon comes with bones, which are high in calcium, and just mash up into the salmon so you don’t even notice them. I discard the skin since I don’t like the texture (it only takes a moment to scrape it off). Plus, I read recently that the skin is where most chemical residue resides so I prefer not to ingest it. 

This recipe is quick and can stay in the refrigerator for a day or so. I like to add lots of celery, scallions and chopped celery leaves but you may prefer green peppers, red onion and parsley. I add a little chopped sweet pickles and some pickle juice if I am in the mood for something sweeter but I always add plenty of dill – fresh, if I have it, or dried, if I don’t. If you hate dill, use a different herb, like tarragon or basil, for example. If you don’t like mustard, you could use plain yogurt or mayonnaise. Or use a flavored mustard with herbs or horseradish. You could add finely diced carrots, jicama, jalapeño or cucumber for crunch. If I were making this for company, I would add a couple of chopped hard-boiled eggs and a big handful of chopped almonds. It is pretty served on a bed of greens with whole grain crackers or carrot, celery and pepper strips. We sometimes pile it on Wasa or Finn Crisp crackers and eat it like an open face sandwich. It is fun to embellish with thin cucumber slices, grated carrots, sunflower sprouts or whatever you like – an easy, cold meal on a hot day.

COLD SALMON SALAD

Mix together:

  • 1 14.75 oz can wild salmon, rinsed, drained, skin removed and mashed with a fork
  • 2-3 stalks celery, with leaves if you like them, chopped finely
  • 3 scallions, chopped finely
  • 1/2 cup fresh dill, chopped or 1-1 1/2 TBs dried dill weed – or more if you like it
  • 3 TBs Dijon mustard
  • 1 TBs fresh lemon juice (or pickle juice, if you like)
  • 1/4 tsp sea salt
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 5-6 slices sweet pickles or 3-4 gherkins, chopped finely (optional)
  • 2 medium to hard-boiled eggs, chopped or mashed with a fork (optional)
  • 1/2 cup raw, roasted or Marcona almonds, chopped (optional)

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Feeds 4 people with a green salad or 2 with enough leftover for 2 sandwiches.

Salmon Salad Sandwich with grated carrots, lettuce and cucumber on whole grain bread
Salmon Salad Sandwich with grated carrots, lettuce and cucumber on whole grain bread

Cold Blueberry Soup for a Hot Summer Day

Cold Blueberry Soup with mint leaves Cup by Naomi Dalglish and Michael Hunt, Bandana Pottery
Cold Blueberry Soup with mint leaves
Cup by Naomi Dalglish and Michael Hunt, Bandana Pottery

It’s July and it’s hot so it must be blueberry season. Picking blueberries is one of my favorite summertime activities and we often get home with more than we can eat. It is so easy to freeze berries – you just lay them out in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, freeze until firm and transfer them to a freezer bag or container to stay in the freezer for when you need them. (Frozen blueberries, by themselves, make a cooling and healthy snack on a hot afternoon or evening).

Blueberries ready to pick in Connecticut
Blueberries ready to pick in Connecticut

Blueberries are good to eat plain, with sour cream, whipped cream or yogurt, in baked goods like muffins or blueberries (frozen works fine here, too), pies, cakes, crumbles and crisps, on cold or hot cereal, in smoothies and cocktails and with ice cream. I love them in salads, too. Other than eating the frozen berries, I think the most refreshing way to consume blueberries is in a simple soup. There are only a few ingredients so it is a snap to make, vegan and delicious. Berries you freeze yourself or commercially frozen berries work equally well. You could bolster it with chia or hemp seeds, chopped nuts and a dollop of plain yogurt or sour cream to make a meal. Serve in teacups, small bowls or mugs and garnish with mint, chopped Marcona almonds or a couple of whole blueberries.

The original of this recipe comes from the spa kitchen at Canyon Ranch but I have tweaked it to suit my preferences. Do your own tweaking. If you like cardamom, use some. If not, try ginger or leave out the spice altogether. The mint is not essential but is a really good complement to the berries. If you don’t have limes, use a lemon or an orange. Some blueberry soup recipes call for cream or sugar. This one is simpler and lighter – a very refreshing summer lunch or first course for dinner. Just make sure it is cold!

CHILLED BLUEBERRY SOUP

  • 3 cups frozen blueberries
  • 1 cup cut up fresh pineapple, peeled and cored – about 1/4 of a small pineapple (if you don’t have the fruit, you can add more juice but it’s nice to have the whole fruit to include the fiber-just note that the fruit makes the soup thicker, so add more liquid)
  • 6 oz or ¾ cup pineapple juice (one of those small cans)
  • ¾ cup water (start with 1/2 and see if you prefer more)
  • 2 TBs freshly squeezed lime juice and the zest of one lime
  • ¼ tsp vanilla (optional)
  • 8-10 fresh mint leaves (optional)

Puree in a blender until smooth and add more juice or water, until it is the consistency you like.

Serves 4 in teacups or small bowls

Cold Blueberry Soup with chopped Marcona Almonds Tumbler by Meredith Host
Cold Blueberry Soup with chopped Marcona Almonds
Tumbler by Meredith Host